1966 Coupe Slow Build

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,130
193
93
Nashville TN
I know you just got finished with the housing...but here is something to consider: What I am going to do is use an 8.8 housing from whatever I can find the cheapest and cut off both housing ends and weld on 9" housing ends like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-7700

You may ask why....there are a couple advantages to this approach:

1. Shortening an explorer axle is 1 weld....but adding 9" ends is only 2 welds, so not much more difficult(though an alignment bar should be used)
2. This gets rid of having to retain the axles with c-clips...you use 9" axles from a Granada or a Ranchero(depending on the spline of your carrier) or even custom axles since they don't really cost that much. Since you use 9" axles, you also use 9" bearings and retaining plates without leaky c-clip eliminators.
3. Bolt on brake kits for classic mustangs bolt on. The 8.8" of course has plenty of brake options, but what you will never find using an 8.8" end is a bolt on rear brake kit designed to complement a bolt on front disc brake kit. IE, if you run SoT front brakes, you won't find a perfectly matched kit for the rear...but if you have 9" ends instead you can run the full kit that has many hours of testing behind it.

P.S. While you are there...I would consider bracing the 8.8 rear and fully welding the axle tubes as well...in theory if you do that the rear end can take 1000+HP according to the internet:
TZM-8.8-FB_3__33518.1621454683.jpg


Easy enough to do while its out, this one is double braced, but a single brace would probably do the trick fine.
 
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AlmostCoffee

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Feb 4, 2020
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I know you just got finished with the housing...but here is something to consider: What I am going to do is use an 8.8 housing from whatever I can find the cheapest and cut off both housing ends and weld on 9" housing ends like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-7700

You may ask why....there are a couple advantages to this approach:

1. Shortening an explorer axle is 1 weld....but adding 9" ends is only 2 welds, so not much more difficult(though an alignment bar should be used)
2. This gets rid of having to retain the axles with c-clips...you use 9" axles from a Granada or a Ranchero(depending on the spline of your carrier) or even custom axles since they don't really cost that much. Since you use 9" axles, you also use 9" bearings and retaining plates without leaky c-clip eliminators.
3. Bolt on brake kits for classic mustangs bolt on. The 8.8" of course has plenty of brake options, but what you will never find using an 8.8" end is a bolt on rear brake kit designed to complement a bolt on front disc brake kit. IE, if you run SoT front brakes, you won't find a perfectly matched kit for the rear...but if you have 9" ends instead you can run the full kit that has many hours of testing behind it.

P.S. While you are there...I would consider bracing the 8.8 rear and fully welding the axle tubes as well...in theory if you do that the rear end can take 1000+HP according to the internet:
TZM-8.8-FB_3__33518.1621454683.jpg


Easy enough to do while its out, this one is double braced, but a single brace would probably do the trick fine.
I had considered welding the tubes up, maybe I will. I talked to a local guy and he basically told me not to worry about c clips or spinning tubes unless I’m running slicks and 600 hp so I didn’t bother. I always could weld it up I guess, wonder if I need to use silicone bronze or something as the housings cast?
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,130
193
93
Nashville TN
I had considered welding the tubes up, maybe I will. I talked to a local guy and he basically told me not to worry about c clips or spinning tubes unless I’m running slicks and 600 hp so I didn’t bother. I always could weld it up I guess, wonder if I need to use silicone bronze or something as the housings cast?

I think most people who weld cast use a nickel rod...not sure if that applies to welding cast iron and mild steel together though. Welding the tubes wouldn't be a huge concern of mine anyway....or rather I would prioritize c-clip eliminators(or in my case 9" axles and retaining plates) over welding the tubes. All it takes is breaking an axle with c-clips for your wheel to go flying away, contrary to popular belief axles can break under non-performance driving situations too(though it is rare so it truly isn't a must-do). Truthfully though, for a street axle you are all set to go.