Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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I had to bust the crank bolt loose on an 06 Accord once. Used an 8 foot piece of pipe to do it. I thought I was going to break my 1/2" breaker bar, but it finally came loose. I actually watched youtube vids on it and that was what they were doing.
I was kidding about that in case anybody took that serious.
Seriously,...why in the world is the crank bolt that tight? The last time I had to deal with a bolt this tight was on the Termi engine. But with that engine I had the whole drive train still in the car. I had the benefit of the weight of the car, the trans in reverse, blocked tires, and an applied e-brake. And a really long freaking piece of roll bar tubing for an extension.
Here I got an engine on a stand.
About the only thing I can do is remove the thing from the stand, remove two flywheel bolts so that I can get some longer ones, put it back on the stand, then jam a crowbar between those bolts, and let the bar wedge against the bolts holding the engine.
That'll keep the engine from turning, I just hope that the whole stand doesn't turn over.
** and just like that,...what once was a concern, ends thanks to the internet, and the mechanics at BMW.
When you look online...Turns out that you're not the first bonehead that has had to break that stuck sonofabitch loose. And it also becomes evident that you're also not the first to wonder how the hell you're gonna stop the engine from rotating while you try and loosen the bolt.
The " How do I stop the engine from rotating" question is answered from the online search with basically a one line answer:
Jam a piece of wood into the crankcase to prevent the crank from rotating.
Durrrrrr!!!
Here I have the freakin pan off and I don't even bother to think about that. Instead, I remove the flexplate, and thread two of the exhaust manifold studs into the crank, and wedge a crow bar between them. I guess either will work, but the wood idea is a guarantee that I wont shear off a stud into the crank.
The other problem of what the hell am I gonna use as a breaker bar was simply a matter of talking to the shop foreman here at the dealership.
Almost half of these guys have 4' long 3/4" breaker bars, because BMW cranks are torqued to 300+ ft lbs.
I now have one of those in my car with a 22mm impact socket on the end.
That leaves only..."How do I keep from flipping the engine stand over",...and that one's easy. I'm just gonna stick a bar in the open end of the stand leg to keep it from flipping.
I'm so glad I thought of all of this sht.
Gland nut on an aircooled vw is like 260. I had to use math and my weight and a breaker bar to get it "torqued"
According to what I'm reading, a cave man should be able to bolt on 400 hp. I'm going for between 400-500 hp.You want this engine to produce in what power range exactly?
In regards to fuel injector testing I used these guys, Injector RX, to test and clean the injectors on my car. They cost about twice as much as the other place mentioned in this thread, but they were easy to work with, turned my stuff around quick, and gave me good comparative data on how the injectors were performing pre and post service.
www.injectorrx.com
Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Testing Service
Best fuel injector service for cleaning dirty, clogged or gummed up injectors. We supply before and after flow testing results. Fast turnaround guaranteed
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Well....
I didnt think I was gonna get it, but finally it moved. And after that...that bitch was all mine.
Now the engine is almost stripped to the point of me being able to clean and paint it.
There is a small oil leak at the front of the engine, no idea where that comes from. Dont know what steps I need to take to fix it.
Dont know if I should take steps to:
Change the water pump.
Change the oil pump.
Have the cams reground.
I plan to:
Replace the timing belt.
Replace the factory ignition with new coils.
Upgrade the injectors to 95lb/hr(1000 cc)
Upgrade my pump to 340lph.
( that means I plan to do some more unorthodox sht...I'm gonna use the two -6 lines that are currently run as a feed/ return, and make them both a feed. Then I'm gonna run a -8 return.)
I think im gonna return to running a a2w intercooler. The water-meth will only be there to keep the engine out of detonation in high boost.
I'm running an external oil cooler/remote oil filter again. The 2j uses a water cooled sandwich cooler like the terminator did.
Its clunky....I dont like it...and I dont think itll be better than the big assed one that's hanging in front of the car.
I ain't using it.
They say that 400 hp is very easy to do, and the engine doesnt even have to be modified to do it...if that's the case, and considering I'm doing what I'm doing..
Is there gonna be even more power than what I'm shooting for?
I didnt think I was gonna get it, but finally it moved. And after that...that bitch was all mine.
Now the engine is almost stripped to the point of me being able to clean and paint it.
There is a small oil leak at the front of the engine, no idea where that comes from. Dont know what steps I need to take to fix it.
Dont know if I should take steps to:
Change the water pump.
Change the oil pump.
Have the cams reground.
I plan to:
Replace the timing belt.
Replace the factory ignition with new coils.
Upgrade the injectors to 95lb/hr(1000 cc)
Upgrade my pump to 340lph.
( that means I plan to do some more unorthodox sht...I'm gonna use the two -6 lines that are currently run as a feed/ return, and make them both a feed. Then I'm gonna run a -8 return.)
I think im gonna return to running a a2w intercooler. The water-meth will only be there to keep the engine out of detonation in high boost.
I'm running an external oil cooler/remote oil filter again. The 2j uses a water cooled sandwich cooler like the terminator did.
Its clunky....I dont like it...and I dont think itll be better than the big assed one that's hanging in front of the car.
I ain't using it.
They say that 400 hp is very easy to do, and the engine doesnt even have to be modified to do it...if that's the case, and considering I'm doing what I'm doing..
Is there gonna be even more power than what I'm shooting for?
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I would do water pump and oil pump also if you’re doing the timing belt also replace the pulley and tensioner
U do no dat win yo put dis motor in yo car, don't matter what hosepower you b putting out, or notin like dat, you gotta run 30 to 45 degees camber to have any "street cred". I mean like now you gotta fit in wit da oder jap crap boys. 
JK, I been watching this thing for a while, really looking forward to what you do next. Hell man, if it was me, I'd drop a 5.0 and call it done. The car is already different enough.
JK, I been watching this thing for a while, really looking forward to what you do next. Hell man, if it was me, I'd drop a 5.0 and call it done. The car is already different enough.
- Mar 2, 2015
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This is no normal jap swap. This is the one and only Monster 2 Jimmy zeggy teggy eggy swapeesy !!! Dem boyz gon loose der minds.
My failed attempt to talk....younger. lol
My failed attempt to talk....younger. lol
230 is awful early to be hitting the bottle that hard Scott...
Big doins...
I was sposed to be off today, ( and up until noon I was). I had such big plans.
The 2 Jz keeps going backwards. ( before it goes forward)
The whole engine is stripped and cleaned now..the block is painted. I decided that this time around the monster was gonna be more of a titanium vibe instead of a burnt copper.
The water pump is off,..the oil pump is off...this thing is very LS-esc........But I don't care.
Tomorrow we got pictures...the intake's here, the exhaust manifold's here...the injectors are here.
The intake is too wide I think...it's gonna hit the Cobra MC. The tube runners are too long, and there are no options. If I cut them, and section out an inch, all I can do is put a piece of silicone hose in between to allow me to shorten the tube length. The thing is already powder coated..cutting, sectioning and rewelding the thing drives the cost up into the stupid zone.. The intake is already at the $1000.00 mark with injectors.
Along the lines of the cost of a 2j swap......with a competent fabricator doing the swap in a fox....by the time I'm done...this will be a 6 k swap...
For a 50-60k used engine. And.. If you aren't a competent fabricator,...and you can't build an oil pan,..and you can't fab up the mounts,..and you can't adapt the transmission.......
Better find yourself an Ford explorer.
Or...
Better have really deep pockets.
Tomorrow the oil pan gets bolted onto the stripped short block permanently. I'm finalizing the pick up tube ( modified to allow me to service it in the future).
The Monster engine short comes out tomorrow...for the last time.
The Japanese Monster....
Hmmmmmmmm
Now what can I call the engine that hasn't been done over and over.........a Japanese monster that hasn't been used to death...
Godzilla?.......fck no!
King Ghidora?...
Mothra...?
Rodan....?
I'm gonna have to come up with another monster....
I was sposed to be off today, ( and up until noon I was). I had such big plans.
The 2 Jz keeps going backwards. ( before it goes forward)
The whole engine is stripped and cleaned now..the block is painted. I decided that this time around the monster was gonna be more of a titanium vibe instead of a burnt copper.
The water pump is off,..the oil pump is off...this thing is very LS-esc........But I don't care.
Tomorrow we got pictures...the intake's here, the exhaust manifold's here...the injectors are here.
The intake is too wide I think...it's gonna hit the Cobra MC. The tube runners are too long, and there are no options. If I cut them, and section out an inch, all I can do is put a piece of silicone hose in between to allow me to shorten the tube length. The thing is already powder coated..cutting, sectioning and rewelding the thing drives the cost up into the stupid zone.. The intake is already at the $1000.00 mark with injectors.
Along the lines of the cost of a 2j swap......with a competent fabricator doing the swap in a fox....by the time I'm done...this will be a 6 k swap...
For a 50-60k used engine. And.. If you aren't a competent fabricator,...and you can't build an oil pan,..and you can't fab up the mounts,..and you can't adapt the transmission.......
Better find yourself an Ford explorer.
Or...
Better have really deep pockets.
Tomorrow the oil pan gets bolted onto the stripped short block permanently. I'm finalizing the pick up tube ( modified to allow me to service it in the future).
The Monster engine short comes out tomorrow...for the last time.
The Japanese Monster....
Hmmmmmmmm
Now what can I call the engine that hasn't been done over and over.........a Japanese monster that hasn't been used to death...
Godzilla?.......fck no!
King Ghidora?...
Mothra...?
Rodan....?
I'm gonna have to come up with another monster....
@CarMichael AngeloU do no dat win yo put dis motor in yo car, don't matter what hosepower you b putting out, or notin like dat, you gotta run 30 to 45 degees camber to have any "street cred". I mean like now you gotta fit in wit da oder jap crap boys.
JK, I been watching this thing for a while, really looking forward to what you do next. Hell man, if it was me, I'd drop a 5.0 and call it done. The car is already different enough.
But then it would be just another belly button...
OK, how about a 2019 Miss Universe belly button with a 25 carat diamond in it?
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