Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#11,421
xecute said:
Here
Despite 0 pounds of boost, the first day out with its ITB'S but no longer any turbo and an a91 what? Stevie MegaSquirt tune...


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=34&v=Vb37v0Zb6lA



It smoked its 315s with relative ease in a smoked filled wheelie.

Happy daze Boss.
Click to expand...

I don’t know what they call that exhibition in New Zealand,...but here in the United States,.....Smoke, and wheelies don’t go hand in hand..
Matter of fact, considering that video I posted was based on a a NA combo, where a drive-by could barely wake the dead, and was devoid of both smoke, and wheelies.......... I’m calling that stunt a “Lamie”

* Lamies are videos posted of cars barely making 300 WHP, unable to to generate anything remotely exciting to watch that pass the camera at 60 mph or less, on the way to a guaranteed “warning“ ticket, should you be e observed and pulled over by the local PD ( as opposed to a wreckless driving ticket, automatic vehicle impoundment, and a mandatory 24hrs in jail, when you convert it back to forced induction) should you be unlucky enough to have the same situation exist.

Lamies are what you see on any given Saturday night bracket racing event.
Lamies are the feelings that you get after watching any movie with Vin Diesel in it.
Mega Lamies occur when you paid to see the above movie.
Lamies are yellow beer With the word “ lite, or light” on the end.
 
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#11,422
Nice little frame rail tool shelf you built Mike.

D4C86891-F576-4C15-AA06-3F2141C2CCD3.jpeg
 
#11,424
Inching closer.

Fixing the wiring that has “devolved” over the last few years has been the main focus. Between the two gauge sets, the two car stereos, and now the two engines, a lot of the wiring was jug fcked all to hell and back.

Everything I read regarding the proper way to ground the ECU is different from my initial understanding of how to do it.
(Which means initially, I never really understood it at all :nonono: )

Initially, I grounded the ecu through the relay board. The relay board was grounded to a insulated stud that was tied via a big ass 2 ga. cable routed directly to the battery. Additionally, there was a second 2 ga. cable that was grounded both at the engine, and a separate 4ga tied to the chassis that also ran directly back to the battery.

But that was redundant, and unnecessary.

Soooo....now ( because it takes me as many times reading sht, as it does making sht) this is my understanding of how to do it.

The ecu is grounded through both the relay board, and the ms3x expansion cable to the engine block, all of the related sensors are grounded AT the ecu. The cable that the ECU and engine block is connected to, is also connected to the battery.

* it is no longer connected to the chassis.

The floating, insulated cable seems pointless to me now. ( but there are some things still attached to that)

The battery has always has a short 4 ga. cable that is attached to the chassis. I’ll do that again to ensure that both the engine, and the chassis share a common ground.

i bought the 1n4001 diodes to be able to complete those things tomorrow.
The IAC valve gets one; the VVT solenoid gets one; and,..I’m going to change the boost controller over to the dedicated output that comes off the ms3x output cable....that output will get the diode treatment too.

I’ve decided to re-purpose my old water pump output. I’m re-routing it to activate/control the rear mounted water pump/ heat exchanger cooling fan system. I’m thinking I’m going to have that system reference the MAT temps. Once those MAT’s Get above a certain temp, the recirculating system comes online. It remains inline until the temps get back to a pre-determined temp. ( which is completely Yet To Be Determined).

Lastly...

Since being furloughed,, I’ve been working on this car every day. Most days, 6-8 hours at a crack. Tomorrow marks 2 weeks. I can’t help thinking how freakin long this car would’ve taken to finish had this been business as usual. I’m thinking at the rate I’m going, end of April is engine start date...if it takes even that long....

But had things not been in the current state of affairs,...it would’ve been end of summer before I’d even have a prayer of starting it....and given the current situation,....I’d trade end of summer for end of April to have things back to the way it was in a minute.
 
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#11,425
The 1N4003 or 1N4004 are a better choice since the have a higher voltage rating. The reverse voltage spike from switching off an inductive load can be multiple times the normal applied voltage. Exceeding that rating multiple times can cause the diode to fail.

Using a diode as a dampener in automotive circuits:

Theory of operation:
The diode acts as a surge absorber or one way gate. Anytime you turn the power off an inductive load (coil, motor, solenoid, etc) the collapse of the magnetic field creates a voltage spike of opposite polarity to the voltage applied. The positive wire sees a negative spike and the negative wire sees a positive spike. The diode is wired backwards so that it does not conduct during normal forward operation. When the magnetic field collapses, the diode sees the reverse polarity spike and clamps it. This prevents the spike from possibly damaging the rest of the electronics in the car.
When used to clamp spikes in automotive circuits, connect the lead that comes from the end of the diode that has the band on it to the positive side of the circuit. Connect it the other way and you will make smoke.

Diode markings
attachments\586744\


A properly functioning diode will measure very high resistance or open circuit in one direction. Reverse the meter leads and it will measure a lower resistance.

attachments\50089\
 
#11,426
The 1n4001 are what the ms guys suggest to use, but as above there are other options.

Mike, you could use some of your pwm outputs to drive solid state relays... instead of on/off you could just have the ECU target a temperature to keep the system under and let it decide how fast to run the pump ect.
 
#11,427
The old monster engine has blow-by like a bitch. Try as I may to control/contain the byproduct of that blow by, nothing worked. I bought stuff, and I made stuff to try to control it. Nothing worked. ( In the end, the engine was the problem, nothing I could make or buy was ever gonna make it stop puking it’s oil out through the valve cover)

The last thing I made started with a piece of 3” exhaust tubing. It had all kinds of internal baffles, with two input lines, and one return line so that the puked out oil could go back to the oil pan.

The end result was so freakin ugly, there was no way in hell I was ever gonna post an actual picture of it, or mount it where anybody could ever see it. I mounted it really low, and because it lived its life under the engine, in the dark,...never to get any love...I called it the puke troll.

So today, when faced with the fact that I was gonna have to come up with some sort of breather tank for the new engine, I looked at possibly resurrecting the puke troll......for about one minute.

Then threw that ugly little bastard back into the metal scrap bin.

I have a 2 port Mishimoto catch can. It was one of my attempts to control the oily puking bastard from before. One 1/2” port that is routed to it from the valve cover, with the other port intended to be plumbed back into the intake stream.......It seemed cheesy to me. And the stupid piece of junk cost like 100 bucks. In consideration of that, I looked at using it today as well.....
For about two minutes.

Instead, because I’m hoping I won’t have excessive blow by with this new engine, and because I just have to keep trying to build sht that may, or may not work,....I decided to try my hand at building a traditional, non-baffled breather tank.

* it also helps that I’m getting more and more comfortable using the TIG.
AD80BC04-6272-4BFF-A593-68EA7EF2F475.jpeg

Good enough to mount him high and centered. I got to looking at the engine compartment, and there was just too much copper and black, so I added some redness. Tomorrow the braided -10 line will be here, and that should bring the overall aesthetic up to my standard....

Cause despite the fact that it was a noisy, oil spewing, boost leaking pig....The old monster’s engine is a tough act to follow when it comes to eye candy..
01D7F900-777E-4318-ACE8-F9F4A4B1AE81.png

The Old ITB version Monster was my masterpiece.
Anyway,...that was then,...I gotta try and doll up the new engine. So, that’s why the red.

I also finished the brake system...waiting on fluid, and one of my kids to pump the brake pedal for me.
3F8F0FFC-BEE8-4805-B657-9B7CACECFED3.jpeg

Maybe tomorrow I’ll feel like dicking with the wiring some more..I needed a break from it.
 
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#11,429
a91what said:
Looks good Mike, I don't think you will have anywhere close to the same issue that you had on the previous version of the monster. The new engine is eye candy as well, I can't wait to see where redline is on this one. :D
Click to expand...

I'm thinking 11,500, sniffing 30+ lbs of bosst.

I'm pretty sure MadMike doesn't think that. Probably 7,000 and 12-15lbs. :(
 
#11,433
I got nothin to show.

But there is sht happenen’ nonetheless.

I now know it’s the cosmetic nitty gritty that I love the most when it comes down to the wire....the nit picky way a cable runs, or how a hose crosses “ over” or “under” something that I’ll obsess over to the point of doing it over, and over...
Until I’m happy with it.

Its the primary reason that I’m redoing the wiring....wires are going over, when they should be running under.

And I’m here tonight to say that I‘m really happy with how that engine compartment is looking..........But Kate decided that it was sunset,......and that we needed to have an end of day drink, and watch the sun go down.....together.

How on Earth was I gonna say no to that ?
 
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#11,435
20 years ago, maybe. But with modern engines with cross bolted mains, deep skirt blocks, solid works modeling of all parts, it's run of the mill.


But it still sounds cool. I just hate sitting there bouncing the rev limiter just because.
 
#11,437
droopie85gt said:
20 years ago, maybe. But with modern engines with cross bolted mains, deep skirt blocks, solid works modeling of all parts, it's run of the mill.


But it still sounds cool. I just hate sitting there bouncing the rev limiter just because.
Click to expand...
Maybe they do that because it’s a stock block that goes to 8000 rpm?....

What happens to a stock block 5.0 that gets revved to......Eight...... Thousand.........RPM?
gen-bomb---facebook-and-storysize_647_010616120556.jpg
 
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