Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Shhhhh!!!!The fckin 3AMD is sleeping. If he even hears a snippet of concern regarding the potential problems surrounding hand building an adapter plate-coupler w/o the benefit of precision measuring devices, jigs, and machining tools....that POS will be shaking me awake worrying his ass off about “ what happens if”.
The fall back is a stinking 4l60/80e.
They already make a adapter.
$660.00
But it comes from freakin Australia. the good thing is that it uses a stock gm converter ( i.e. I won’t have to have a domestic converter modified to fit a japanese engine)
I buy and rebuild a 4l60e
I buy a 10” converter.
I can modify a 4l60e valve body to allow me to manually shift it exactly as i’m doing now with the 4r70.
Id have to configure some way to lock up the converter if i choose a l/U converter ( similar to how i do it now)
Adapted drive shaft, adapted trans mount....
What......2 k maybe?
To never have to worry about the “ what happens if”?
3amd can go fck himself.
Sweet. Back up plan is always nice, and that one doesn’t sound terrible.
I agree. MOF, when I get the refund for the emu black ecu I'll probably seriously consider ordering that adapter kit.
- Mar 7, 2002
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4L60E transmissions get a lot of hate.Shhhhh!!!!The fckin 3AMD is sleeping. If he even hears a snippet of concern regarding the potential problems surrounding hand building an adapter plate-coupler w/o the benefit of precision measuring devices, jigs, and machining tools....that POS will be shaking me awake worrying his ass off about “ what happens if”.
The fall back is a stinking 4l60/80e.
They already make a adapter.
$660.00
But it comes from freakin Australia. the good thing is that it uses a stock gm converter ( i.e. I won’t have to have a domestic converter modified to fit a japanese engine)
I buy and rebuild a 4l60e
I buy a 10” converter.
I can modify a 4l60e valve body to allow me to manually shift it exactly as i’m doing now with the 4r70.
Id have to configure some way to lock up the converter if i choose a l/U converter ( similar to how i do it now)
Adapted drive shaft, adapted trans mount....
What......2 k maybe?
To never have to worry about the “ what happens if”?
3amd can go fck himself.
Built by the wrong clown, they deserve it (cough, Monster Transmission, cough).
Built by someone like Greg Moore at Mace-O-Matic Transmission in Belton, Texas, they're the stuff of freaking legends.
I blew up the stock 4L60E in my GMC Sierra SWB regular cab with the 4.8L LS engine at 205,000 miles (broken planetary sunshell).
I dropped the truck off with Greg, who had previously built an AOD and a TH350 for me, and simply told him to build it so I can't kill it.
I put full bolt-ons and a tune on that truck, sticky tires, and drag raced the hell out of it.
I pulled cars on trailers with it.
I commuted 100 miles a day with it for a year.
I hauled two toolboxes full of tools home from the Dodge dealership after that year.
I pulled an idiot in a 4x4 Powerstroke Excursion out of the mud with it.
After 50,000 miles, I did everything but kill it, and I put it through hell, with WOT being my default method of getting rolling any time the pavement wasn't wet.
Granted, that was with all of 300 horsepower or so at the crank, but 300 horsepower is more than enough to kill a stock or badly "built" 4L60E (cough, Monster Transmission SUCKS, cough).
If you end up going that route, it's not the end of the world, and the 4L80 is even better should you decide you want the extra durability (at the expense of the extra weight and cost).
At this point who gives a rat's red bunion hole what's what. The fckin thing has a jap engine, who cares what transmission is behind it?
Wait wait wait wait . The fall back is buy a whole adapter plate for 660 bucks for a trans you don’t have and still need ? PS a 60e behind a 2j making 15-20 psi won’t live long . So you would need an 80 .
I believe I mentioned when you started this to cut the bell housing like you did . Get a GM sfi adapter bell housing ( Freddy brown uses them on 4r70 and Aod all the time ) . Get the 2j to glide /400 adapter and flexplate . Put a hybrid converter in it . So you’re only worry would’ve been converter pull out / pump engagement .
I believe I mentioned when you started this to cut the bell housing like you did . Get a GM sfi adapter bell housing ( Freddy brown uses them on 4r70 and Aod all the time ) . Get the 2j to glide /400 adapter and flexplate . Put a hybrid converter in it . So you’re only worry would’ve been converter pull out / pump engagement .
ALRIGHTY THEN.
I'm not gonna do anything just yet.
You're saying keep the 4r 70, and put a bell that converts it to a GM bell housing pattern, and buy an adapter that converts the 2jz to the GM bell pattern, and then buy another morphadite converter to adapt the ford transmission to the GM adapter?
- Mar 7, 2002
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How to Build a 4L60E Transmission That Can Handle 1,000+ HP
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4L60E's have come a long way. All of the fast LS-powered trucks around here are running one. They're like AODs, most "built" ones out there are mostly BS. The ones that are actually "built" will take abuse.
Screw it, put a 'glide in it...
That was my original idea pitch to you when you didn’t know how you wanted to adapt this thing . GM swap is so common the only difference here is your converter is Driving a pump in a ford trans instead of a glide or 400. If you think about it .ALRIGHTY THEN.
I'm not gonna do anything just yet.
You're saying keep the 4r 70, and put a bell that converts it to a GM bell housing pattern, and buy an adapter that converts the 2jz to the GM bell pattern, and then buy another morphadite converter to adapt the ford transmission to the GM adapter?
In hindsight, that seems excessive.
Although my engine “ could” make 4l60e killing power, the likelihood that i’ll ever put this car in a place to cause that ( read: drag strip on drag radials) is very low.
Couple that to the menagerie:
1. Cut bell off of 4r70.
2. Buy SFI rated adapter bell to convert Ford transmission to Chevy bell housing pattern.
3 Buy 2jz adapter kit that adapts Chevy bell pattern to 2jz.
4 Buy “ hybrid” converter that adapts Ford transmission to ??? flexplate?
Granted, i’ve cut the bell off of the 4 r70, but i’ve kinda compromised the front pump area by cutting notches into the case for my homemade adapter. Soooo......I really don’t trust that case.
And, I already have a converter that fits both the Ford Transmission, And the 2jz.
But that converter spacing was built for the A340 bell/ Mike’s homemade adapter spacing.
It’s very unlikely that it’ll work anywhere else.
That leaves me w/zero reusable parts if this experiment doesn’t work, or fails at some future point.
From what I read, a properly built 4l60e that replaces the weak areas of the factory transmission can easily withstand 600-700 hp. My engine is stock, 600-700 hp is at the boundaries that I‘d shoot for.
That Aussie adapter system would allow me to NOT have to cut off the 4l60e bell, The kit already provides the spacer for a stock pattern GM converter. Sonnax sells, and has great tech revolving building a 4l60e to survive, and Trans go builds the stuff to allow me to build a decent trans that I can manually shift through 4 gears. Whether or not I can buy some different gate plate to allow my shifter to shift that, I’ll have to check.
If I start driving this thing, and there’s some vibration that is there because of a misalignment, or the thing simply fails because of what I did, I kind of want to be done with all of the Rube Goldberg contraptions required to be able to enjoy the freakin thing.
- Mar 7, 2002
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Oh...well then I'll be able to buy a better one if for some unlikely reason I feel the need to go to a drag strip and try to blow up a converter or flexplate.
Then this should be a book.
It took all day to figure out the tach. I actually had it right several hours earlier, but screwed the tach trigger wire onto the wrong terminal of the relay board. Needless to say....it didn’t work.
And I wracked my brain for hours trying to figure out why it wouldn’t.
It took checking the wire for voltage in the I/o test mode, then at the terminal on the relay board to realize that i had screwed it on the wrong terminal...( 6 hours later). But when i figured out that simpleton mistake....the tach needle instantly jumped to life.
* What can I say,...the relay board is under the dash, upside down...Anybody with phcked up knees that you can’t kneel on, while trying to screw a wire into a screw terminal, all twisted up in front of the passenger side seat coulda made the same mistake.
But once solved, I set about putting the interior back in enough to take a maiden voyage with the entirely new combo...
Almost 5 years to the same day later from the original Monster debut.
I wasn’t gonna beat on it, I just wanted to be sure nothing would fall off, and that it would stop, steer, and shift...
Which it did perfectly.
The steering is a little weird. It’s like power steering, but somewhat disconnected from reality...Something that I’ll have to get used to i’m sure. ( The fact that’s the front end is only string aligned may have something to do with that though)
Its definitely gonna have to get cams next fall..( Fck....what am I saying...it’s June already. It’ll get cams this fall after Cruising The Coast) The thing sounds like it has a Pinto engine..Not even Ricer sounding...it just sorta Bllaaahhh’s along.
No noticible vibration, but again I didn’t beat it. It isn’t tuned yet.
I shifted it through 4th gear and let it auto tune itself. I lifted the hood and for the fist time since i’ve had this car ..Didn’t have oil all over the place, or dripping out from under it.
So,...Maybe if Steve is available for a ride along Sunday, we’ll put it into boost, and see what’s what.
It took all day to figure out the tach. I actually had it right several hours earlier, but screwed the tach trigger wire onto the wrong terminal of the relay board. Needless to say....it didn’t work.
And I wracked my brain for hours trying to figure out why it wouldn’t.
It took checking the wire for voltage in the I/o test mode, then at the terminal on the relay board to realize that i had screwed it on the wrong terminal...( 6 hours later). But when i figured out that simpleton mistake....the tach needle instantly jumped to life.
* What can I say,...the relay board is under the dash, upside down...Anybody with phcked up knees that you can’t kneel on, while trying to screw a wire into a screw terminal, all twisted up in front of the passenger side seat coulda made the same mistake.
But once solved, I set about putting the interior back in enough to take a maiden voyage with the entirely new combo...
Almost 5 years to the same day later from the original Monster debut.
I wasn’t gonna beat on it, I just wanted to be sure nothing would fall off, and that it would stop, steer, and shift...
Which it did perfectly.
The steering is a little weird. It’s like power steering, but somewhat disconnected from reality...Something that I’ll have to get used to i’m sure. ( The fact that’s the front end is only string aligned may have something to do with that though)
Its definitely gonna have to get cams next fall..( Fck....what am I saying...it’s June already. It’ll get cams this fall after Cruising The Coast) The thing sounds like it has a Pinto engine..Not even Ricer sounding...it just sorta Bllaaahhh’s along.
No noticible vibration, but again I didn’t beat it. It isn’t tuned yet.
I shifted it through 4th gear and let it auto tune itself. I lifted the hood and for the fist time since i’ve had this car ..Didn’t have oil all over the place, or dripping out from under it.
So,...Maybe if Steve is available for a ride along Sunday, we’ll put it into boost, and see what’s what.
Which one is pretty oblivious; meeting Jesus... There is no escaping the EVERY KNEE WILL BOW. Your knees will not prove to be a problem when that time comes....
I mean,.....I’m serious. The OG monster, as raucous as he was, had a distinct “ I’ve got something for that ass” exhaust note.
The new engine says.........” I get 37 miles to the gallon, and can’t go up a hill w/o downshifting a bagillion times.
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