Car has a BBK adjustable Regulator, dialed back pressure to mid 30s then down to 30 at idle, still no luck... it still smells rich when it hits 3k RPMYou should be in the low 30s at idle. Do you still have the stock fuel pressure regulator with the vacuum line connected? At 50psi across the board you are way to rich.
kk you gonna send me over gaskets and permatex.. and fr im not a mechanic im not gonna take apart anything i know if i take apart i have the possibility of ruining the car
idk if i mentioned it here but i do know it says 10 0n valve cover driver side corneron the front and it has an A9p ECM and on the Distributor it has E7AE which E is 80s 7 87 AE i think is for a F150 also noticed it says 80 mustang on driveshaft.. the headlight harness has fog light and air bag connectors.. but the gauge cluster A and B connectors are wired light the 87 to 89 ones.. fuel pump relay is under driver seat like the 89 should.. and here are some random parts numbersno permatex needed. All you need is a flashlight. Your IDing parts, not rebuilding the engine. You want to know why you have a non-HO firing order, then your gonna have to help us out because we can’t see your engine.
all you’ve been asked at this point to do is look at the engine and identify part numbers and snap a few pics. Then we can tell you “yes, that is correct for your car” or “no, that shouldn’t be like that”. They will provide clues that might get to the bottom of this once and for all.
we get you can’t tear an engine apart. That’s fine, but you gotta understand we can’t figure out what’s wrong with the car without being there to see a few things. We need more info, and much of that info you can provide doesn’t require anything more than flashlight and camera. You’ll even learn why we are asking the questions we are asking along the way.
idk if i mentioned it here but i do know it says 10 0n valve cover driver side corneron the front
thought T was bad but ill go now and take pics but you do mean i wont have to take apart valves tpo right lol i know the gaskets are like 10 bucks and i could do that in 10 days.. but need to know what distributor i can use for this motor cuz of it is a roller i have to have a steel gear and tappet is cast iron plus it does have a bad wobble that makes it buck and snatch on rough roads, there was quite a bit of oil in intake from pcv valveneed to change groument and all... need plugs wires.. ect sending unit prob act too as well as an air damn for hot air intake and research if that big cone filter fr isntoo biligbfor my mf the housing or injectors..Look on the opposite corner of the same head. The heads will have a letter on one corner and a number on the other. The number is an internal number from the foundry that identified the core used. The letter identifies the head.
T= E7TE (correct head for your car)
S = E6 head
R = E5 head.
everything else I’ve seen you post is 100% correct for a 1989 car.
Some close up engine bay shots would be helpful too. Get in close and just snap pics of details like injectors, throttle body, the head bolts, wiring etc.
You should probably make one thread and update that single thread vs having this info in multiple threads.
wAlso, autolite 25s are not the correct spark plug for E6SE heads. They use an Autolite 2546.
the E7TE which is what you should have used an autolite 25.
did that spark plug even fit right??