Yep I’m gonna, todays not a good day as it decided to rain today like it has every other day this summer lol.
Engine 1993 Engine Codes
- Thread starter Sconnell80
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Yep I’m gonna, todays not a good day as it decided to rain today like it has every other day this summer lol.
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codes 41 & 91 can be caused by so many things it'll make you go crazy. Trust me I know, I've have these codes for over a year and finally fixed them. The key words for Lean is "low voltage" and "too much air" in air/fuel mixture.
1. Check your battery(voltage), alternator and engine ground(s).
2. Check your engine vacuum at idle. If you have a cam installed, make sure your vac is in specs with the cam.
3. Check your fuel pressure.
4. Check O2 ground. The orange wire coming from the injector harness.
5. Check your MAF sensor.
6. Check your bbk headers for leaks also.
jrichker's guide will get you in the right direction.
1. Check your battery(voltage), alternator and engine ground(s).
2. Check your engine vacuum at idle. If you have a cam installed, make sure your vac is in specs with the cam.
3. Check your fuel pressure.
4. Check O2 ground. The orange wire coming from the injector harness.
5. Check your MAF sensor.
6. Check your bbk headers for leaks also.
jrichker's guide will get you in the right direction.
It does have a cam so I’ll check the specs and rent a vacuum tester to check vacuum. I plan on pulling the lower intake and checking the gaskets along with changing the pcv and grommet to rule them out as well. I’ve changed all the vacuum lines and capped off the extra intake lines so I know they are good. I’ll seal up egr block off with rtv and the iab with rtv even though it is a new gasket. Once the car is warm the idle is fine just has the lumpy cam. Eventually I will find the issue.
So you have the cold start issues also? If so,
1. IAC (try cleaning it first).
2. Do a base idle reset.(You might set the idle around 800 or 900 rpm depends how lumpy your cam is)
3. check your MAF(clean it and also check for leaks before and after it)
4. double check timing.
What is your fuel pressure at? I noticed you also had code 92
1. IAC (try cleaning it first).
2. Do a base idle reset.(You might set the idle around 800 or 900 rpm depends how lumpy your cam is)
3. check your MAF(clean it and also check for leaks before and after it)
4. double check timing.
What is your fuel pressure at? I noticed you also had code 92
I do have a cold start idle surge, iab is brand new, timing is set at 14* and base idle reset was done. I set it up a little higher. I haven’t cleaned the MAF but will grab some cleaner. I don’t have anything to get fuel pressure but new filter and fpr. I did have 92 with old sensors but now only 41/91 with new sensors.
How to clear codes.
Clearing the codes by pressing a button on the scan tool or disconnecting the test jumper used to start the code dump does not erase the “learned settings”. All it does is erase the stored codes in memory.
You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor. The following tells you how and is different from the method above
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. It also clears the adaptive settings that the computer "learns" as it operates. Clearing the codes does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem. This is necessary for the computer to relearn the adaptive settings that the computer uses for proper operation. The engine may run rough at first, but should smooth out as it runs for the 15-20 minute learning period.
Clearing the codes by pressing a button on the scan tool or disconnecting the test jumper used to start the code dump does not erase the “learned settings”. All it does is erase the stored codes in memory.
You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor. The following tells you how and is different from the method above
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. It also clears the adaptive settings that the computer "learns" as it operates. Clearing the codes does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem. This is necessary for the computer to relearn the adaptive settings that the computer uses for proper operation. The engine may run rough at first, but should smooth out as it runs for the 15-20 minute learning period.
Anytime I replaced sensors I’ve unhooked the battery, I did it again when I got home and took the car out for a drive. Come back and hooked up my scanner as it’s faster to get the codes. KOEO codes 67, 81, 85, and 33. The usual codes there. KOER 94, and 33. I didn’t get 41/91 this time. I cleaned up the ground mounts for the o2 sensor wire and the chassis wire ground that I added. Pulled out the pcv and made sure the grommet was seated good and was causing a vacuum leak. Basically looks like I have codes for the smog system that was yanked and the egr delete.
Just an update but I finally have the car up and running and videoing like it should. Only getting codes for things that aren’t there like egr and smog stuff. My T5 didn’t have the neutral sensing switch in the top cover but have since had to pull that as it didn’t fare well being out of a 4cyl. New T5 had one and I hooked it up. Also read about the MAF clocking and the issues with fenderwell air intakes. Gave the MAF a 1/4 turn for the air turbulence to hit more and wouldn’t you know it idles with no surging when cold. Thanks for all the help from the people on here.
Great. Good to hear you got it running good again. The funny thing is my car does the exact opposite your car did. My car does great on cold starts but on warm start ups, it idle surges until I give it a little gas and then is idles correctly. No codes, but I think its something to do with the MAF. I may try clocking mine as well. I'm also running the fenderwell air intake.
No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.
Would the car still run and perform good if no code 11 comes up? Right now the car is running the best it ever has, idles cold and hot with no surging, is actually getting about 18mpg if I keep my foot out of it. When I first got it I was worried what I bought lol
It will run better all around when everything is working properly. Not code 11 means that the computer or wiring is damaged, or there is a bad sensor problem.
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