2.3L won't start

[DarkFireGT]

Ok, so it was having a lot of trouble starting and staying running at the end of last year. I basically had to give it a ton of pedal to get it started and keep it running. Now it won't start. It turns over fine, but it's obviously not getting any fuel. If I give it a blast of starting fluid, it will run for a few seconds, but then that runs out and it dies. So I'm assuming here my problem is fuel delivery. I'll check the fuel filter, but I replaced that last spring as a matter of general maintenance, so I'm doubting it's that. Am I correct in assuming my fuel pump took a crap? If so, is that a fairly easy replacement? If not, any other ideas? I never got to learn anything about motors when I was a kid, so it's all kind of as I go, right now.

 

[cjones]

sounds like fuel problem.

check the pressure. if you have none.

it's carbed right?: check getting fuel in the carb. if so, then press the throttle and see if you have fuel spraying into intake.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Like I said, I know very little when it comes to engines. I'll check the fuse and see if there's a fuel shut off switch. I'm not sure if I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to "on", as I don't know what to listen for.

EDIT - ok, I just checked and I have fuel pressure. I unhooked the hose to the fuel filter and turned it over and gas came out. I also blew through the fuel filter, so it's not clogged. I guess that leaves the carb? I have no clue how to replace that, or at least remove it to have it rebuilt.

 

[cjones]

first see if you're getting fuel when you hit the accellerator.

 

[cjones]

to remove the carb.

remove and plug the fuel line, remove the throttle cable and if an automatic tranny remove the trans cable. remove any electrical connectors and label. remove and label all vacuum hoses. remove the 4 nuts holding the carb on. once carb is off cover intake opening with rags/towels so nothing falls into intake.

that's generally how to remove a carb

 

[cjones]

I'll check the fuse and see if there's a fuel shut off switch. I'm not sure if I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to "on", as I don't know what to listen for.

sorry, that is for fuel injection. at first i didn't notice what year it was.

 

[2muchtime]

i asked last time if you ever checked the timing belt.... did you?
sounds like it jumped a tooth or two.

 

[78CobraII]

I agree with the above check for fuel availibilty in the carb, then the timing.

When you remove the air filter and pull on the throttle cable, you should be able to see fuel squirt down the bores. If not, the carb needs rebuilt. Not difficult if you have a good selection of hand tools, a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and a rebuild kit. The key is careful disasembly and reassembly. Or just buy a rebuilt one and swap.

The timing belts on the 2.3L is only good for about 50K miles. At high mileage, they can jump time by 1 tooth and continue to run although poorly. Usually they jump several teeth and don't run at all though... Luckily that doesn't damage anything unlike newer cars that would destroy the head in a similar failure.

 

[ethangsmith]

Agree completely with the above posts. I usually post on the 2.3L forum, but stumbled across yours. Assuming this is on a stock setup, the carburetor is a Motorcraft 5200 2 barrel carburetor. They are very easy to rebuild and kits are available from Advance Auto (I just bought one there about 4 months ago for my 86 Capri (which I swapped the 2 barrel on to) and it cost about 75 bucks. A reman carburtor will run you close to 300 bucks. Your fuel pump is mechanical and is attached to the side of the block below the distributor. I would say rebuild the carb if it hasn't been done for some time. Once you get it going, it will run really well for you. When storing the car, be sure to use Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer (cheap and available at Wal Mart) to make sure the carburetor, fuel, tank, pump, and lines stay clean and gum-free. If you need more help, post up on the 2.3L forum and you'll get plenty of responses.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Being as I don't know crap about engines, I don't know how to check the timing. I'll have to check that out, though. It's on the stock timing belt I'm sure. IIRC it has about 65000 miles on it, and it was in a barn for 20 years. The whole engine really needs to be torn apart and rebuilt, which I plan on having done, but I won't be able to until next year. I'm willing to bet it's the timing belt. I'll check the carb to see if it's getting fuel. Do I need to have the car running to check that? Or will it spew gas into the carb even with the car off? Thanks guys. Computers I know inside and out. Engines, I'm just getting started. I can do bolt-on's on modern cars, but I've never had to do anything on these old cars. My '65 Galaxie (1st car) never had any problems, so I never had to do anything to it.

 

[ethangsmith]

Checking timing without the car being able to idle is basically impossible. If you do get it idling ( ~750rpms) in drive (or if it's a 4 speed, in neutral), look down at the distrbutor body. You will see a large metal vacuum diaphragm on the side of it with a vacuum line running to it. Disconnect that vacuum line and cap the now disconnected line. Recheck your idle as it may have changed. With a timing light, point it at the crank pulley and watch to see where your timing is. I believe on the early 2.3L's the timing stamps are actually on the crank pulley and there is a little metal tab on the timing cover. Check a Chilton manual or, if it is still intact, your emissions controls label (either on the valve cover, washer fluid reservoir, or hood underside). You will see timing specifications for manual transmission and automatic transmission calibrations (some even have california specifications). Find the timing degree number for your calibration and see if it matches. For example: if it ends up that your timing should be set at "6B", that is 6 degrees before top dead center. When pointing the timing light at the crank pulley, the numbers printed on the crank pulley will appear to become stationary due to the pulsing of the timing light. Look at what number (probably a notch, the pulleys only show tdc, 10b, 20b, 30b usually, the notches go by 2's I believe so if your timing was set at 6B it would be 3 notches past TDC towards the 10B) is across from the timing pointer. That's what your timing is set at. If it is incorrect, use a 17mm (I/m pretty sure that's what it is) socket and long extension to loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. Rotate the distributor to get the correct timing. Tighten the bolt and then reconnect your vacuum line to your distributor. Check to make sure the timing has now advanced (should now be at about 25-30B) due to the vacuum line being reconnected. If it all checks out, it should run good then.

 

[78CobraII]

Yes, the motor at least has to be turning over in order to check fuel delivery as the fuel pump is run off of the timing belt via the accesory shaft on the 2.3L. The safest thing is to disconnect the coil wire from the distributor before checking so that a backfire doesn't ignite the fuel in the intake and give you a flaming head.

1. Disconnect the coil wire from the distributor.
2. Remove the air cleaner so that you can look down the carburator throat.
3. Turn the motor over with the starter,.
4. Pull the throttle cable while looking down the carburator throat.
5. You are looking for a thin squirt of fuel when the throttle is opened all the way.

But, you REALLY want to check for fuel TO the carb first. Remove the fuel line at the carb and the coil wire, and arrange a small cup to catch any fuel coming out of the hose. Have a friend turn the motor over with teh starter. You want to repeat this test with the fuel filter in the line to make sure its not blocked. After 20 years, the fuel tanks in these cars are full of crap. It may be that the sock in the tank is plugged. If you have fuel pressure to the carb, then do the carb checks (above) and the timing checks (below).

The fuel pump is easy to swap in this car, but the fuel hose connections to the pump and fuel lines are a pain. While we discussing fuel hoses...20 year old rubber fuel hoses are dangerous! Replace them, both at the engine and at the tank!


Do everything outside! Have a fire extinguisher within reach! A local guy burned down his house and lost his collection of classic Mustangs after a carb fire in his basement.

Checking cam timing is a little different than checking ignition timing...basically you have to make sure that the crankshaft and cam gears are in the correct relationship to each other. On the Ford Lima 2.3L motor, you also have to check the position of the distributor (accessory) drive shaft.

Its a pain to do, but not technically complicated.

1. Remove the timing cover (the hardest part).
2. Rotate the engine so that the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke and the dot on the pulley is at the pointer.
3. Loosen the belt tensioner.
4. Remove the old belt.
5. Make sure the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 contact.
6. Rotate the cam so that the dot on the pulley is at the pointer and the #1 intake valve is closed.
7. Reinstall the timing belt and release the tensioner.
8. Reinstall the timing cover and any accessory belts that were removed.

Please check your manual before attempting as I may have the details wrong on #'s 2 and 6. The old memory is not what it used to be...

This process is WAAAY easier than on something like a Nissan 300ZX overhead cam V-6!

The real malfunction on the Ford Lima 2.3L is that it uses a timing belt rather than a timing chain. Chains may get some slack in them, but they don't fail like a timing belt does (except for the 60's and 70's timing chains with the nylon gear inserts). Another problem with the 2,3L timing belt is that any combination of the pulleys can be out of position. Luckily it won't cause any damage to the engine unlike a timing belt failure on a Nissan 300ZX!

There are access plugs on the 2.3L timing belt cover which can also be used to check the orientation/condition of the cam belt and pulleys, but I've never used them.