GeneralGrant said:
Ok first how do i know when my clutch is broken in.
Im crossing the 400 mile mark on it but im not sure if i can start whooping on it yet.
second my brakes are kinda spongy and it doesnt seem to go away when i pump the brakes. The car appears to only be stoping with the fronts according to the guy that i had look at it. He seems to think that it is possibly a collapsed line or a master cylinder. Any ideas or suggestions?
The break in period for a new clutch is dependant on who you talk to. I have heard as little as 50 miles, and as much as 500. 500 sounds good to me. That is how long I waited.
Now, onto brakes. What is the condition of your pads/rotors on all 4 wheels. I have noticed that even when you turn rotors and put on new pads, the rotors will not mate well, causing the brakes to get very glazed. If the pads are glazed, and you turned the rotors w/ the new pads, get brand new rotors and brand new pads. This might eleviate your problem.
The master cylinder has two cylinders. One cylinder for the rear, and one from the front. If you suspect the mechanic is right, remove all four wheels and watch the calipers engage the pads to the rotors. If the rear pads are not being engaged, you have a problem with your master cylinder. There are pressure valves that can be replaced individually, and one of these may be the culprit. But first read my steps below.
First, check for fluid loss. If the reservoir maintains fluid, that is a good sign. If you are losing/lost fluid, go to step 3.
Second, bleed the brakes, then test drive. If braking does not improve, go to step three.
Third, check the brake lines for any crimps/cuts/damage. If you have fluid loss, have someone pump the brakes while you examine each line. That should bring the culprit to the surface. Replace as necessary. Bleed the brakes and test drive.
Fourth, consult your haynes manual. It should tell you how to narrow down your problem to a specific component.
Scott
