2000 v6 Secondary Air Injection ( smog pump )

Discussion in 'SN95 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Dongo68, Feb 14, 2011.

  1. I had the code for "High Voltage to AIR" and the one for "Secondary AIR injection system fail"

    I pulled out the old pump and it was shorted, so I slaved a new one in, turned the key to on (car completley cold) and the pump does not energize, I started the car and the pump does not energize. I took the pump and jumped 12v to it directly, pump energizes. I checked all the fuses and they wer good, both inside and under hood.

    I do not have a meter, I suppose I need to buy one now.

    I have heard talk of a "Realy" I have a manual but alas the emission system wiring diagrams are incomplete!!!!

    The car had sat for a long time over 5 years not being driven hardly at all. I drove it for 3 hours, and it runs fine, but I am only getting about 19mpg- pretty low for a 5 speed v6.

    I can clear the codes, but they come back. Perhaps I will install the pump and drive it a while to see if the PCM resets and detects it.

    I did read a thread and the manual does say that the CCRM controls the voltage to the pump, but I cant find a diagram so I have no idea which wires to ohm check.

    Thanks for your suggestions. Dongo:shrug:
  2. Please post the full DTC codes. Less likely to chase wild geese and less work for me.

    The usual cause for air injection issues in older V6 Mustangs is rust through in the exhaust manifold. Followed by water entering the electrical pump itself and shorting it out.

    Finally, there is a control relay that fails at a fairly high rate.

    The air injection system is only used during start up. So a bad air pump shouldn't cause any driveabiltiy issues per se. That is unless there is rust through and the resulting EXHAUST leak.

    Even a tiny exhaust leak will cause the PCM to think the AF is lean. The PCM responds by adding fuel. This results in a rich mixture, loss of performance, and poor gas mileage.

    Suggestion. Check for exhaust manifold or air pump nozzle rust through. You will never be able to resolve this problem unless the exhaust is air tight.

    Next inspect the air pump for rust or evidence of water damage. If found, service/replace.

    Finally look at the control relay as a source of the problem.
  3. Updated 19 Feb 2011

    Thanks for your input!! I replaced the pump (it was shorted), I repaced the CCRM (RCM-12) and VOILA, it worked and the codes are gone.

    However the filter inside the pump housing for intake and exhaust AIR is bad, I called FORD dealership = no go !! :( Anyone know who might carry such a thing, I looked at Rock Auto so far and have done a few google searches :(

    The other issue is that now the pump works, it is VERY LOUD inside the car, when I slaved it in on the outside with out the air manifold on top, it was quiet. It was a tight fit in the mount since it was a different make of pump and I had to grind off two corners a bit, I think it may still be touching the mounting bracket and I think I will try and grind a bit of it down to make sure there is not transferance.

    Any ideas from anyone, anyone else ever get this after changing the pump? I checked the hose and it is not blocked. Any chance that the foam air filter debris got into the EGR valve or something?

    Thanks again for your input.

    I beleive the codes were p0414 and p1414, but there clear now, and I tossed my paperwork, sorry.