2003 GT fueul pump issue

[wmburns]

No power at CCRM pin #11 (LB/OG) wire means that either:

• The 20 amp fuel pump fuse F1.14 is BLOWN. Not a bad idea to check the PCM fuse F1.26 as well.
• There's a wiring fault between the BJB=F1 and the CCRM.
• There's no power to or inside the BJB.

Again don't over look the fact that any wiring fault could be in the connector or edge pins themselves.

1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

Since you were asked if there were any blown fuses as part of the opening checks, if this turns out to be a blown fuse it would help the rest of the community for you to explain how something like a blown fuse was missed.

 

[classic02]

I have checked all fuse including ones you mentioned and prior ones and all fuses are good.

 

[wmburns]

As stated before. Either:

• The fuse is blown (or mostly blown)
• The fuse is NOT making a good contact inside the fuse holder.
• There is corrosion inside the fuse holder terminals.
• There is corrosion, water damage, or rodent activity inside the BJB.
• There's a wiring fault inside the BJB.
• There is a wiring fault in the wiring harness between the BJB and CCRM.

Have you REPEATED the test light test on BOTH sides of the fuse? You are aware there's a place on most fuses where part of the fuse terminal extends and is accessible with the fuse still in place? Very easy spot to "probe" the fuse without having to remove it.

Have you removed the fuse and performed a test light test on the SUPPLY side of the fuse contacts?

The details matter here as the circuit is tested at each point along it's way. The voltage drop WILL show itself once the the weak connection has been framed.

If you still think everything in the BJB is good, then the next step is either:

• To remove the BJB and perform a through visual inspection INSIDE the BJB.
• Repeat ALL of the tests because there's a mistake in your work somewhere. A previous "assumption" is wrong.

 

[classic02]

ok I retested all fuses and power to all fuses is good. can we run a direct wire from battery to lb/or wire pin #11?

 

[wmburns]

Soooooooooo IF you KNOW that power in and out of the fuse F1.14 is strong, THEN the problem HAS to be down stream from the load side of the fuse.

I'm guessing that you haven't actually removed the BJB. The problem with running a direct wire is that you still don't know EXACTLY where the fault is. There may be other damage that may go un-repaired. RARELY does a wiring fault happen to a single wire. Remember that when dealing with possible internal corroded wires the insulation maybe OK whereas the copper inside is rotten. PULL on the wires. A good solid wire will not just come apart in your hand.

I might be tempted to run a jumper wire from power to the CCRM just to prove that it will start when power is restored.

If this were my car I would remove the BJB anyway to run the wire from the load side of the fuse. This retains the stock wiring and fuse panel schedules. I hope that you can see the valve in knowing HOW the stock wiring is put together.

Besides I get the impression that you don't understand WHY you are seeing the test results that you are seeing. IMO you will understand better when the true cause of the voltage drop has been found.

Keep the faith. IMO you are closer to solving the real problem than you think.

 

[classic02]

I just pulled and looked at the bjb and all wire are clean no corrosion and are all tight. now running wires from bjb to ccrm

 

[wmburns]

My copy of Ford wiring diagrams indicate the circuit passes through connector C144. C144 is a square 16 pin connector located:

​

engine compartment, RH side, front

C144 pin #14 LB/OG I believe this connector is below the air filter and air tube down low along the frame rail.

This might offer another location to "split" the circuit and narrow down. The problem might be in the connector itself. I'm also assuming that the CCRM connector has been looked over inside and out.

Just in case you didn't know right is the car's right (not your right facing the car).

 

[classic02]

thank you I appercate all the help you have been giving me I noticed that connection but have not checked that yet. I have quit for today will pick up again next weekend..

 

[classic02]

hello wmburns, this is mike with the 02 mustang with fuel problem. the lb/or wire that comes out of fuse box under the hood. does that wire go to the ignition first then to the ccrm? I took the lb/or wire at ccrm and cut it I connected it to I jump wire ran from the fuse box under hood to ccrm. and now every thing works. the reason why I am asking if the blue wire from fuse box go to ign switch is because its a consent power wire from the fuse box. and I cant find diagram for that wiring.

 

[wmburns]

The LB/OR wire is a high amp ALWAYS on circuit that goes from the BJB to the CCRM (through several connectors). It is feed from fuse F1.14.

I believe that I have indicated more than one time that the circuit headed by fuse F2.34 (WH/LB) is responsible to provide pilot duty 12 volts to "kick in" the CCRM. Fuse F2.34 is feed from the ignition switch. It is done this way to save the ignition switch the wear and tear of switching on/off high amp circuits.

Sooooooo if trying to trouble shoot a possible ignition switch problem the easy way is to the Test and CONFIRM IF there is key on power into and out of Fuse F2.34 using a known good ground.

 

[classic02]

ok I checked all fuse in which talked about twice I have power to and from all fuses. so if I understand this correctly the lb/or wire only goes from bjb to ccrm through other connections. so one of those connections are bad. correct?
cuz again with a wire from bjb to ccrm lb/or wire I now have power to my fuel pump
I thank you very much for all your advise.