did anyone do the sn95 conversion without changing the booster or master cylinder? i was wondering how it would feel if i just didn't change those. i drove it the other day and the brakes were weak but i figure its cause i havent finished bleeding them. does anyone know if you have to change these items?
4 wheel disk foxes in here
- Thread starter bcd
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Kumm3
Founding Member
i did it, and its not the best way to do it
i never thought it was a problem, until i tore out the carpet and sound deadening, and i heard the rear pads just DRAGGING on the disc under a 3/4 panic stop.
spend the money, get it done right, its your safety we are talking about here.
i never thought it was a problem, until i tore out the carpet and sound deadening, and i heard the rear pads just DRAGGING on the disc under a 3/4 panic stop.
spend the money, get it done right, its your safety we are talking about here.
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Yes, you need the M/C. The booster is a maybe...but do it anyway.
Do it right. No point in converting to disks if you are gonna do it half-assed
Do it right. No point in converting to disks if you are gonna do it half-assed
HardmanGT
Founding Member
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I have an 86, swapped out the MC for an 85 lincoln towncar and left the booster alone. The pedal is almsot too firm. In the future I may go to SN95 stuff, the booster and MC, but either way, it stops like no ones biz.
running cobra brakes here as well. 13" fronts, 11.35" rears. stock mc and booster as far as i know.
pedal is nice and consistant. its not overly firm, its not soft either. i bled my brakes after finding out my rears had never worked. made a world of difference.
car stops really well with it. my rear brakes dont drag either.
pedal is nice and consistant. its not overly firm, its not soft either. i bled my brakes after finding out my rears had never worked. made a world of difference.
car stops really well with it. my rear brakes dont drag either.
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
331Pony said:
I am curious to know how you pulled off running a STOCK M/C with a SN95 Conversion?
huRACEmentPSR
Banned
i did the full sn95 setup, and i still have my fox m/c and booster, and the car stops amazing. the pedal is a little softer than it was before the conversion, and i do know i need to switch over, but for the time being it seems fine. i need to bleed my brakes just to check it, but like i said...it seems fine, and im not a wuss on my brakes either, i have basically roadraced my car with them and not yet had one problem
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
txstang84
15 Year Member
ck here:
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
yeah, you should gut the stock p/v and install an adj one, i'd hate to hear that you lost control of the car due to rear brake lock-up...
i did the 85 lincoln town car m/c swap as well, yeah, the pedal's a little stiff, but i like it just fine. and with 95 fronts and SVO rears, it stops great, i'll still probably upgrade the fronts to cobra's but that's a little ways away.
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
yeah, you should gut the stock p/v and install an adj one, i'd hate to hear that you lost control of the car due to rear brake lock-up...
i did the 85 lincoln town car m/c swap as well, yeah, the pedal's a little stiff, but i like it just fine. and with 95 fronts and SVO rears, it stops great, i'll still probably upgrade the fronts to cobra's but that's a little ways away.
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
bcd said:
Maximum Motorsports makes the best 3-2 conversion kit and its only like $30 or $40.
FMS Brake Cables:
M-2809-A
M-2810-A
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
The Stock M/C and Prop Valve were designed for rear drum brakes! You Guys should at the very least gut the stock prop valve and put an Adjustable one in, for your safety and others!
Similar threads
