I have some rust and deposits in the tank. Do you think it would be ok to just get as much rest as I can out and reinstall it.
5.0 Engine Running
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The tank needs to be cleaned as much as possible. On rusty tanks I've used length of chain....a couple hand fulls of old nuts and bolts....and even gravel to clean a tank out. Without a chemical treatment all of the rust won't come out.
You can put stuff in the tank and slosh it around with water. Once the tank is rinsed out and all the loose rust and crap are gone it can be dried and reinstalled. Drying usually takes a day or so. If you get as much water out as possible and pour some rubbing alcohol in it it'll be easier to dry. The alcohol will help dry the tank a lot faster.
You can put stuff in the tank and slosh it around with water. Once the tank is rinsed out and all the loose rust and crap are gone it can be dried and reinstalled. Drying usually takes a day or so. If you get as much water out as possible and pour some rubbing alcohol in it it'll be easier to dry. The alcohol will help dry the tank a lot faster.
So you have clean must of it with nut and bolt or chain and did you just rinse it out and reinstall once dry? Would this work? Most of the rust seams to be half way up to the top of the tank.
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Yes... You can turn the tank on its side and shake it back and forth with stuff in it to break up most of the rust scale.
Once it is cleaned out and dried it can be reinstalled. A replacement tank would be best. Over time the rust will come back and could clog the pump strainer, fuel filter, or ( worse case ) cause a fuel leak in the tank.
This would be your best solution. This is from Late Model Restoration....we have a discount code available that will take 6% off.
Once it is cleaned out and dried it can be reinstalled. A replacement tank would be best. Over time the rust will come back and could clog the pump strainer, fuel filter, or ( worse case ) cause a fuel leak in the tank.
This would be your best solution. This is from Late Model Restoration....we have a discount code available that will take 6% off.
Have you ever tried the Spectra tanks? The problem I am finding with all the tanks is they do not have the screw hole for the filler neck bracket and not much room from the edge to the weld to put one. Is this bracket still needed?Yes... You can turn the tank on its side and shake it back and forth with stuff in it to break up most of the rust scale.
Once it is cleaned out and dried it can be reinstalled. A replacement tank would be best. Over time the rust will come back and could clog the pump strainer, fuel filter, or ( worse case ) cause a fuel leak in the tank.
This would be your best solution. This is from Late Model Restoration....we have a discount code available that will take 6% off.
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That bracket is not really necessary. It just sits around the filler pipe. I've never tried a Spectra tank.
When the tank is new you could take it to a muffler shop and have them weld a tab on the location of the mounting screw. Its also a good idea to prime and paint the new tank. It'll keep it looking good for a long time.....not that anyone will see it with the plastic cover on the bottom of it.
Have you put other tanks in that did not have the hole for the mounting screw? So if it is not necessary what is its purpose and the top of the fill pipe is hard mounted correct? If I install without the mounting bracket I should not have any issues?
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I have installed them without the bracket. The pipe will not come out even without the bracket. The tank has to be dropped to slide the pipe out.
I really don't know why its there. Maybe it kept the pipe from laying on the filler pipe seal during storage for assembly at the Ford plant. Just an uneducated guess
I really don't know why its there. Maybe it kept the pipe from laying on the filler pipe seal during storage for assembly at the Ford plant. Just an uneducated guess
I put a new fuel pump, tank, fuel filter, and fuel leveler gauge in it. Then put 5 gals of non-ethanol gas in it with some fuels system cleaner and it started with a couple cranks . The motor ran ruff for a few min and stalled so I started it again and it started running fine.
Thank you for your help.That's great !!!!you shouldn't have any issues for a long time. Fixed correctly the first time. Some folks cut corners and patch things together. Glad to see you went did it right.
I was wondering if you could possibly help me with this other issue I am having.
I am having a binding noise coming from the rear when turning sort of sharp. It seams to do it once the engine warms and you drive about two miles. I did top off the rear oil after it did it the first time. The rear is hot to where you can not touch it long and not sure if this is normal. Do you think the rear is shot and can it be rebuilt or do you have any ideas to help me.
Sounds like you may have damaged the rear end. The fluid requires a special additive to keep from damaging the track lock
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The best advise I can give is to pull the rear cover off. Its not complicated. You want the front wheels chocked, transmission in neutral, and rear on jack stands with both rear wheels off the ground.
First, you're looking for any metal or glitter in the fluid. Second, you want to check the spider and ring gears for rough marks, chips, or scoring. You want to use " right stuff " silicone gasket maker when you put the cover back on. That stuff never leaks.
Also, you want to get a bottle of Ford friction modifier when you put fluid back in it. I had to get mine from Ford. I think it was a 6oz bottle. My rear took 4oz ( I believe )
I'd also advise you to remove the rear from the car and take just the rear to get rebuilt. Its easier for the shop that way....and sometimes easier on the pockets. That is, if you have a vehicle the rear can be transported in.
Sounds like you may have an issue with the clutch pack inside the rear.
There are several 8.8 limited slip rebuild videos on YouTube. It really isn't that hard to do. Just make sure you put all the shims back in exactly like they were before you took them out. If you don't replace the ring and pinion gears then you should be fine using the same shims that came out. There's a spring that a real pain to get out and put back in....other than that its easy peasy.
Show us some pics of what it looks like behind that cover.
First, you're looking for any metal or glitter in the fluid. Second, you want to check the spider and ring gears for rough marks, chips, or scoring. You want to use " right stuff " silicone gasket maker when you put the cover back on. That stuff never leaks.
Also, you want to get a bottle of Ford friction modifier when you put fluid back in it. I had to get mine from Ford. I think it was a 6oz bottle. My rear took 4oz ( I believe )
I'd also advise you to remove the rear from the car and take just the rear to get rebuilt. Its easier for the shop that way....and sometimes easier on the pockets. That is, if you have a vehicle the rear can be transported in.
Sounds like you may have an issue with the clutch pack inside the rear.
There are several 8.8 limited slip rebuild videos on YouTube. It really isn't that hard to do. Just make sure you put all the shims back in exactly like they were before you took them out. If you don't replace the ring and pinion gears then you should be fine using the same shims that came out. There's a spring that a real pain to get out and put back in....other than that its easy peasy.
Show us some pics of what it looks like behind that cover.
I did notice when I took the rear wheels off the other day it seam like both axles moved in and out some. Is this normal because I thought the diff pin keeps them from going in hardly at all.
- Mar 2, 2015
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- Mar 2, 2015
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I've never measured it....guess it would be less than 1/4 inch. More around 1/16th of an inch. If it has 1/4 in and out movement or more there's probably something wrong.
If there's metal in the oil when the cover is pulled there's something wrong. Usually when a rear goes bad there will be a whine from the rear that gets worse as speed increases. Brake drums can rust and cause noise like what you describe, especially, if its dong it on the inside wheel around turns....meaning you turn right and the noise cones from the right. The limited slip transfers to the outside wheel around a turn.
If the rear clutches are locked up it'll think and bind making tight turns slowly. Kind of like if the tear had a spool ( full posi ). The inside wheel will skip around turns.
The reason for limited slip is because the outside wheel travels faster than the inside wheel in turns. If the rear doesn't slip both wheels try to spin at the same speed around corners. The little play in and out helps the rear open up around turns.
If there's metal in the oil when the cover is pulled there's something wrong. Usually when a rear goes bad there will be a whine from the rear that gets worse as speed increases. Brake drums can rust and cause noise like what you describe, especially, if its dong it on the inside wheel around turns....meaning you turn right and the noise cones from the right. The limited slip transfers to the outside wheel around a turn.
If the rear clutches are locked up it'll think and bind making tight turns slowly. Kind of like if the tear had a spool ( full posi ). The inside wheel will skip around turns.
The reason for limited slip is because the outside wheel travels faster than the inside wheel in turns. If the rear doesn't slip both wheels try to spin at the same speed around corners. The little play in and out helps the rear open up around turns.
I have not had time yet to pull the rear diff cover yet but I did take the drive shaft off and turn it by the pinion hub and it soulds like it makes a noise when I stop from turning as for as my wrist will allow. How much drag should it have when you turn it this way? I also tried turning it by the hub and think I got like a dragging noise is this normal? I will try and post the vidio of turning the pinion first then the wheel hub to see if you can give me any input. Had to load on youtube since file is to big.
View: https://youtu.be/vg9bD8VH_V0
View: https://youtu.be/Lv4kUrCPC7o
View: https://youtu.be/vg9bD8VH_V0
View: https://youtu.be/Lv4kUrCPC7o
Yank them drums off, you may have a broken thing-a-ma-jig in there draging on the drums.
As for the noise when you turn the pinion that could just be backlash, the pinion gear and the ring gear banging together, you've checked the gear lube right?
As for the noise when you turn the pinion that could just be backlash, the pinion gear and the ring gear banging together, you've checked the gear lube right?
I check the gear lube and did not see any metal. how easy is it suppose to be to turn the pinion hub or wheel hub? I did have the brake drums off and the axle when I took that video. I also notice a clicking when I hold the diff hub and turn the wheel hub a little bit. Not sure if axle spline are worn. Attached are some pictures of rear open.
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