5.0 Techies Sugestions??????

[revedup]

Id like input on rebuilding refreshing engine for power and performance gains.

Its an 89 5.0 stick 218,000 miles uses oil 1 qt every 6- 800 miles aprox.
Isn,t that normal oil consumption for these Mustang 5.0,s
I wonder if Its feasible sensible to lower pan changing[
Bearings, pull heads, rebuild,,install new rings,
Remove radiator change cam uninstalling the engine from the car?
I mean would i save any money instead of having it removed?
If i paid a garage to do it?
Just wondering performance wise an increase and or is it best just to have it removed and gone through pistons bore crank ect??
I hear these blocks are durable.
/B]

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

you would save your cash by taking the engine out and giving it to a machine shop to rebuild, heck I took my exploder to a shop to do the headgaskets and it was a little over 2k!!!! If you are going to let a shop take the engine out, rebuild with the parts you want, maybe a hci combo, then your going to be spending upwards of 5k, half of that being labor, this is where you save bigtime, is taking everything apart and then saying hey put this back together for me. Find out first what you want to do with the engine, do you want to stroke it? ect. I would just get a new or performance shortblock like from dss, they are about $1500 for the base model, so thats not that bad at all. Performance wise, the power increase from just swappin a good shortblock in will be noticeable, better get up and so on, if you put heads a cam and a intake on that with about 10 to 1 compression, you better hold on!! especially if you put nitrous or a blower on it.

 

[vristang]

Id like input on rebuilding refreshing engine for power and performance gains.

Its an 89 5.0 stick 218,000 miles uses oil 1 qt every 6- 800 miles aprox.
I wonder if Its feasible sensible to lower pan changing[
Bearings, pull heads, rebuild,,install new rings,
Remove radiator change cam uninstalling the engine from the car?
I mean would i save any money instead of having it removed?
If i paid a garage to do it?
Just wondering performance wise an increase and or is it best just to have it removed and gone through pistons bore crank ect??
I hear these blocks are durable.
/B]

Oil usage can also be a pcv problem or valve seals. Are you sure it is the rings?


It would be way to hard to build a motor with the block in the car...
Imagine trying to hold the crank in place while getting the main cap bolts threaded.
Then trying to torque the rod bolts around the k-member.

Pulling the motor yourself and stripping it down will save you a ton of $$$.
Depending on your skill level, you could even do the assembly.

jason

 

[Foxbody1993]

Just get a cherry picker and engine stand and do it yourself. You save money and learn how to fix your vehicle which in turn save you even more cash later on in life. I refuse to let anyone work on my car except me b/c I dont wanna trust someone else to do it right.

 

[DRock9]

How.much.is.the.rebuild.if.you.do.it.all.yourself?

How.much.if.you.pay.someone.to.put.it.together?

I.am.thinking.about.doing.this,and.sorry.my.space.is.broken.

 

[Foxbody1993]

How.much.is.the.rebuild.if.you.do.it.all.yourself?

How.much.if.you.pay.someone.to.put.it.together?

I.am.thinking.about.doing.this,and.sorry.my.space.is.broken.

I read your post and was like WTF is this guy on. LOL

 

[Matts89Notch]

How.much.is.the.rebuild.if.you.do.it.all.yourself?

How.much.if.you.pay.someone.to.put.it.together?

I.am.thinking.about.doing.this,and.sorry.my.space.is.broken.

It almost looks like after you put "space." that there is a space between the . and i.? no? I say busted

 

[DRock9]

Why.would.i.fake.having.a.broken.spacebar?

If.anything.it.is.alot.harder.to.type.like.this...

Back.on.topic:

Anyone.know?

 

[TheUser]

I did a rebuild last summer. Assuming you have the knowledge, skills, abilities, a place to do the work, and the necessary tools, your prices might be similar. Deviances will be caused, obviously, by parts required, parts pricing, work required and other issues. Here's what mine cost me.

Block Machine Work 351.62 (purchased used block, clean and bore
*Block was $200, Bore was $100, Freeze Plugs $25 and cleaning $25 IIRC
Heads Machine Work 100
Crank Machine Work 75
Head Gaskets 0 (already had head gaskets)
Intake Gaskets 20*
Water Pump/Timing Cover Gaskets 20*
Thermostat 10*
Oil Pan Gasket 18.88
Oil Pump 34.88
ARP Oil Pump Shaft 16.88
Oil Pump Gasket 1.29
Rings 99.95
Main Bearings 31.99
Rod Bearings 39.92
Rear main seal 14.88
Harmonic Balancer 68.95
Tranny Steel Bearing Retainer 37.88
Pilot Bearing 9.99
Throwout Bearing 32.95
Resurface Flywheel 19.5
Upper To Lower Cobra Intake Gaskets (5 pack) 19.99
Spark Plugs 12.71
Anti Freeze 20*
Oil Filter 8.95
Oil 10*
Tranny Fluid 20.34
Balancer Bolt 9.67
Summit Handling 9.95
Motor Mounts 55.42
Engine Hoist Rental 69.96
Tranny - Roll Pins 3.59
Throttle Cable 106.3

TOTAL: ~1351.44

You may not need a new block, or throttle cable, but you'd probably need most of the other stuff. Additionally, if you bore, you'll need new pistons. Other parts may be required depending on condition. If you don't have a second vehicle or something else to drive, you may have hardship. It took me a month and 3 extra trips to the machine shop to get a good, usable block.

 

[DRock9]

Thanks!

I.will.eventually.work.my.way.up.to.a.rebuild.

As.of.right.now.I.have.only.installed.full.exhaust,nitrous.kit,upper.intake,and.about.to.install.UCA/LCA.

 

[revedup]

I did a rebuild last summer. Assuming you have the knowledge, skills, abilities, a place to do the work, and the necessary tools, your prices might be similar. Deviances will be caused, obviously, by parts required, parts pricing, work required and other issues. Here's what mine cost me.

Block Machine Work 351.62 (purchased used block, clean and bore
*Block was $200, Bore was $100, Freeze Plugs $25 and cleaning $25 IIRC
Heads Machine Work 100
Crank Machine Work 75
Head Gaskets 0 (already had head gaskets)
Intake Gaskets 20*
Water Pump/Timing Cover Gaskets 20*
Thermostat 10*
Oil Pan Gasket 18.88
Oil Pump 34.88
ARP Oil Pump Shaft 16.88
Oil Pump Gasket 1.29
Rings 99.95
Main Bearings 31.99
Rod Bearings 39.92
Rear main seal 14.88
Harmonic Balancer 68.95
Tranny Steel Bearing Retainer 37.88
Pilot Bearing 9.99
Throwout Bearing 32.95
Resurface Flywheel 19.5
Upper To Lower Cobra Intake Gaskets (5 pack) 19.99
Spark Plugs 12.71
Anti Freeze 20*
Oil Filter 8.95
Oil 10*
Tranny Fluid 20.34
Balancer Bolt 9.67
Summit Handling 9.95
Motor Mounts 55.42
Engine Hoist Rental 69.96
Tranny - Roll Pins 3.59
Throttle Cable 106.3

TOTAL: ~1351.44

You may not need a new block, or throttle cable, but you'd probably need most of the other stuff. Additionally, if you bore, you'll need new pistons. Other parts may be required depending on condition. If you don't have a second vehicle or something else to drive, you may have hardship. It took me a month and 3 extra trips to the machine shop to get a good, usable block.

What you think about just getting a usd engine?
Do you think a number mathing 5.0 is worth perserving or not?

 

[revedup]

Oil usage can also be a pcv problem or valve seals. Are you sure it is the rings?


It would be way to hard to build a motor with the block in the car...
Imagine trying to hold the crank in place while getting the main cap bolts threaded.
Then trying to torque the rod bolts around the k-member.

Pulling the motor yourself and stripping it down will save you a ton of $$$.
Depending on your skill level, you could even do the assembly.

jason

Maybe you know aomeplace that will remove replace and rebuild it in the s.f. bay area??

 

[revedup]

I did a rebuild last summer. Assuming you have the knowledge, skills, abilities, a place to do the work, and the necessary tools, your prices might be similar. Deviances will be caused, obviously, by parts required, parts pricing, work required and other issues. Here's what mine cost me.

Block Machine Work 351.62 (purchased used block, clean and bore
*Block was $200, Bore was $100, Freeze Plugs $25 and cleaning $25 IIRC
Heads Machine Work 100
Crank Machine Work 75
Head Gaskets 0 (already had head gaskets)
Intake Gaskets 20*
Water Pump/Timing Cover Gaskets 20*
Thermostat 10*
Oil Pan Gasket 18.88
Oil Pump 34.88
ARP Oil Pump Shaft 16.88
Oil Pump Gasket 1.29
Rings 99.95
Main Bearings 31.99
Rod Bearings 39.92
Rear main seal 14.88
Harmonic Balancer 68.95
Tranny Steel Bearing Retainer 37.88
Pilot Bearing 9.99
Throwout Bearing 32.95
Resurface Flywheel 19.5
Upper To Lower Cobra Intake Gaskets (5 pack) 19.99
Spark Plugs 12.71
Anti Freeze 20*
Oil Filter 8.95
Oil 10*
Tranny Fluid 20.34
Balancer Bolt 9.67
Summit Handling 9.95
Motor Mounts 55.42
Engine Hoist Rental 69.96
Tranny - Roll Pins 3.59
Throttle Cable 106.3

TOTAL: ~1351.44

You may not need a new block, or throttle cable, but you'd probably need most of the other stuff. Additionally, if you bore, you'll need new pistons. Other parts may be required depending on condition. If you don't have a second vehicle or something else to drive, you may have hardship. It took me a month and 3 extra trips to the machine shop to get a good, usable block.

well as long as the bores undamage it wouldnt be necesary to bore and put new pistons right??

 

[vristang]

Maybe you know aomeplace that will remove replace and rebuild it in the s.f. bay area??

I'm in Seattle, so I can't help with finding a Bay area shop. If you want to bring the car to Seattle, I know a couple of good shops...


If the bores are still tight and round, then you may only need a hone job and fresh rings.

Are you working with a tight budget?
Are you limited by how long the car can be out of comission?

If we know your exact circumstances we may be able to offer more appropriate advice...

Have you done a compression check and leakdown test?
These tests will tell you if the oil consumption is due to blowby/ring seal problems.

It would suck to go through all the effort of rebuilding the short block just to find out that the valve seals were shot, or the pcv was faulty...


jason

 

[TheUser]

Most people bore it .030 over when rebuilding, especially with 218,000 miles -- although you may be able to get away with a hone. My guess is the machine shop would determine that for you. Mine was actually a rebuilt 306 (302 bored .030 over) when I bought the car and when I rebuilt it (with estimated 5000 miles on it), the block was scarred so bad that I had to get a different one. That's not common, but I had rings that were broken pretty badly, etc. I was able to use my "old" .030 over pistons though since I had the "new" block bored .030 over.

Anyway, if I were you and replacing the engine, I'd bore it. Pistons will run probably $300-400, though. I really don't want to recommend you do it yourself if you're not comfortable with it. You need to be comfortable with it and realize that problems often - and most likely will - occur. I had one problem after another, but I was building the engine myself to learn (and because it needed it). You really need a 2nd vehicle so that you can take your time on your engine rebuild (if you choose to do it). I spent about 2 months on mine working on it a little every day and cleaning and painting things.

I also looked at explorer engines. A long block explorer 5.0 engine w/ 60,000-100,000 miles was running between $500-1200 or so around here, so I just decided to rebuild myself. When you buy an explorer engine, you need to buy the mustang conversion kit, which is like $250 from summit. You get a new timing cover, etc to make it fit in a Mustang.

Definitely make sure it needs to be rebuilt before you do it

 

[revedup]

I'm in Seattle, so I can't help with finding a Bay area shop. If you want to bring the car to Seattle, I know a couple of good shops...


If the bores are still tight and round, then you may only need a hone job and fresh rings.

Are you working with a tight budget?
Are you limited by how long the car can be out of comission?

If we know your exact circumstances we may be able to offer more appropriate advice...

Have you done a compression check and leakdown test?
These tests will tell you if the oil consumption is due to blowby/ring seal problems.

It would suck to go through all the effort of rebuilding the short block just to find out that the valve seals were shot, or the pcv was faulty...

i figure with 218,000 miles that over all it may be tired .
Youre right i should compession test wet and dry and clean pcv but i did while back
I only got this one car at this time
If it was out of commission for a while id have to rent a car i guess
jason

 

[revedup]

Got an idea of cost if i was to have it done by a shop say rebuild with just rings bearings timing chain heads gaskets ect?
No boring no new pistons ect

 

[revedup]

Most people bore it .030 over when rebuilding, especially with 218,000 miles -- although you may be able to get away with a hone. My guess is the machine shop would determine that for you. Mine was actually a rebuilt 306 (302 bored .030 over) when I bought the car and when I rebuilt it (with estimated 5000 miles on it), the block was scarred so bad that I had to get a different one. That's not common, but I had rings that were broken pretty badly, etc. I was able to use my "old" .030 over pistons though since I had the "new" block bored .030 over.

Anyway, if I were you and replacing the engine, I'd bore it. Pistons will run probably $300-400, though. I really don't want to recommend you do it yourself if you're not comfortable with it. You need to be comfortable with it and realize that problems often - and most likely will - occur. I had one problem after another, but I was building the engine myself to learn (and because it needed it). You really need a 2nd vehicle so that you can take your time on your engine rebuild (if you choose to do it). I spent about 2 months on mine working on it a little every day and cleaning and painting things.

I also looked at explorer engines. A long block explorer 5.0 engine w/ 60,000-100,000 miles was running between $500-1200 or so around here, so I just decided to rebuild myself. When you buy an explorer engine, you need to buy the mustang conversion kit, which is like $250 from summit. You get a new timing cover, etc to make it fit in a Mustang.

Definitely make sure it needs to be rebuilt before you do it

Yeah maybe the engine will go 300 ,000 miles huh??
Well maybe im just being prepared to find out in case.
Right id need a 2nd vehicle if i was going to have it done
Then again if it goes it may be easier just to find something eose another 5.0 or 4.6 i may know a lady selling a c-4 for $4000 it was awhile ago though probably sold it.

 

[TheUser]

no way to tell how long the engine will last unless you do a leak down test or at least a compression test.

A C-4 vette for $4000 probably either has a lot of miles or a lot of problems. A decent 100,000 mile C4 should go for $7,000-10,000 easy.

The only real way to know the price a shop is going to charge is to call a few and ask them. Depending on the condition of your block, you may have to bore.

 

[DRock9]

Maybe someone can answer this question, if I rebuild the top end of my engine with Trickflow stuff would that mean I can run more boost/higher shot nitrous? Right now I am going to stick to a 100 shot but I am hoping that if I get a new top end I can get up to 150.

Thanks!