About to buy an SN95 - 5.0 or 4.6?

[Joe Link]

I'm planning on buying my first mustang soon. Despite their reputation as chick cars, I'd like to find a clean SN95 GT. I remember when they came out and I've always liked that body style. I'm also planning on daily driving it for the time being, and I hear they're much easier to deal with on a day to day basis.

The one thing I can't decide on is the 5.0 or the 4.6 engine. I've read a ton about both of them, yet I'm still undecided. My goal (and it won't happen overnight, probably years down the road) is a 10 second car. I'm not sure what it takes to achieve that in an SN95, but I'm guessing somewhere around 500hp? I won't be using nitrous, but a supercharger is something I'd be interested in.

Then of course, one of the most important factors; budget. Like most of us, I don't have a lot of money to spend on this project. I know either of these engines can hit the mark with enough money, but I'd like to know which would get me into the 10's with a lower total cost. I also don't want to get to the point where it's extremely unpleasant to drive on the street on a regular or semi-regular basis.

I will be doing most of the work myself, save for gears and tuning. Thanks in advance!

 

[Kilgore Trout]

4.6

 

[trinity_gt]

I'm planning on buying my first mustang soon. Despite their reputation as chick cars...

?

Says who?

The one thing I can't decide on is the 5.0 or the 4.6 engine. I've read a ton about both of them, yet I'm still undecided. My goal (and it won't happen overnight, probably years down the road) is a 10 second car. I'm not sure what it takes to achieve that in an SN95, but I'm guessing somewhere around 500hp? I won't be using nitrous, but a supercharger is something I'd be interested in.

I think you're going to have trouble getting a reliable 500rwHP and running 10s from a 5.0L without upgrading the cylinder block to an aftermarket piece. Later-model blocks were very thin-wall and prone to splitting in half under "extreme" horsepower levels.

The 4.6 suffers no such weakness.

Then of course, one of the most important factors; budget. Like most of us, I don't have a lot of money to spend on this project.

Fast. Cheap. Reliable.

Choose any two...

I know either of these engines can hit the mark with enough money, but I'd like to know which would get me into the 10's with a lower total cost. I also don't want to get to the point where it's extremely unpleasant to drive on the street on a regular or semi-regular basis.

Keep in mind that running a 10-second car is going to require chassis reinforcements (including a cage if you want to run it at an actual track), suspension upgrades, rear axle, driveshaft and transmission upgrades, fuel system work, tires and wheels etc etc etc.

Make sure you budget for all this and more, not just making xxxHP at the wheels.

 

[mikemora01]

I know a lot of people like to throw around the big 10 number but you should not be dissapointed when you realize it will take 10-15k+ to make a 10 second streetable sn95. But you can make a really fun to drive 12 second 4.6 L for only a couple thousand if that interested you. I dont want to be negative but like trinity_gt says it would be a long expensive project but can be done.

 

[Joe Link]

?

Says who?



I think you're going to have trouble getting a reliable 500rwHP and running 10s from a 5.0L without upgrading the cylinder block to an aftermarket piece. Later-model blocks were very thin-wall and prone to splitting in half under "extreme" horsepower levels.

The 4.6 suffers no such weakness.



Fast. Cheap. Reliable.

Choose any two...



Keep in mind that running a 10-second car is going to require chassis reinforcements (including a cage if you want to run it at an actual track), suspension upgrades, rear axle, driveshaft and transmission upgrades, fuel system work, tires and wheels etc etc etc.

Make sure you budget for all this and more, not just making xxxHP at the wheels.

All those Fox body jerks

I know a lot of people like to throw around the big 10 number but you should not be dissapointed when you realize it will take 10-15k+ to make a 10 second streetable sn95. But you can make a really fun to drive 12 second 4.6 L for only a couple thousand if that interested you. I dont want to be negative but like trinity_gt says it would be a long expensive project but can be done.

$10k-15k is what I have in mind, so that figure isn't surprising. I know this stuff isn't cheap. Time is on my side as far as funding the project goes, I'm a patient person.

Thanks for the replies guys. I've think made my decision; I'm think for me the 5.0 is the way to go. Honestly, that was the way I was leaning in the first place, but the fact that 96-98's are so much easier to find around here was enough to make me question it.

My plan is to purchase a very clean SN95 5.0 and proceed with the standard upgrades while enjoying the car. Gears, exhaust, H/C/I, etc. This should be plenty to keep me busy for the next year or so, whether or not I have the funds (or change my mind) to proceed with the high horsepower goal. Can 300rwhp be achieved with bolt-ons? I really like the idea of being able to pull a cheap, used engine and replace it in a weekend, should I damage something.

If I do decide to move forward with the high horsepower plan, I'll most likely start with a Dart 5.0 block, build it right, with forced induction in mind, and increase my horsepower goals to reflect the incredible increase in time and money. I know building an all-motor motor and a motor for FI are quite different, but hopefully when I'm buying the initial components I can keep in mind my FI goals for the future. Do you guys think this would be possible, or are the components (specifically, the H/C/I components) for an all-motor 300hp build too different than the components for a 500-700hp+ FI build?

 

[sneaky98gt]

I really like the idea of being able to pull a cheap, used engine and replace it in a weekend, should I damage something.

FWIW, you can find a complete 4.6 longblock with low miles for less than $700 from junkyards all day long.

10's in a 4.6 SN-95 would actually be fairly easy (assuming you did all your own work).

Exhaust: $600 for LTs and offroad midpipe
Fuel: $500 for Focus pump, BAP, and injectors
Turbo or supercharger (intercooled): let's just say $6000, although I see complete used centri kits go for <$2500 all the time.
Converter and built auto: actually not that expensive. Converter is around $800, and build parts are <$400.
Gears: $400
Slicks: $500

$9200 total. And that's with new parts and a very tame car (stock heads and cams).

 

[rconaway]

Getting a 4.6L to over 500RWHP is tough on street gas. That's about as far as I'm willing to push mine before detonation starts becoming an issue. There there is the inevitable reinforcing you need to do down the drivetrain like suspension, body, clutch, differential, etc... You are also going to want a built engine for that. It's a great daily driver but it cost a lot as new things kept breaking as the horsepower went up. Even the blower just had $1200 worth of work done.

 

[flstang65]

4.6

 

[Rusty67]

How are the smog laws in your state ? If you get a 94-95 you could swap a 351w/5.8L roller motor in with a blower for extra displacement and what not.... would be a fairly easy swap. I'm a fan of the push rod motors.... or I was until the new 5.0 came out.......

 

[Kilgore Trout]

I said 4.6

 

[rconaway]

I agree with Kilgore. I would get a 96, swap and port the heads, throw a cam and a Vortech centrifigual, a MAF, and some headers/exhaust on it, and be happy. This will get you to 500 crank horsepower and give your engine the best chance to live. If you want to get to 500rwhp, then plan on a built engine. BTW, you will also need to beef up the fuel system, brakes, and suspension.

 

[Jhussey1280]

I love my 4.6. I had a Fox and it was a fun car, but I just love the power, reliability and that distinct sound of the 4.6. Aside from the overhead cams, the 4.6 is super easy to work on too. The only reason I say the OHC is a challenge is because I dont own all the degree wheels and proper tools to dial in the cams right. When I first started working on cars some 22 years ago, I thought I wanted a 10sec street car. After having one, I can honestly say that as fun as it was, no. I'm perfectly fine with a nice reliable 400hp street car.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

If you have a 10 second car you will have a car that is faster than some cars and slower than others, just like every other car.

 

[Mattstang04]

Im not going to say you cant find a reliable pushrod 5.0 car. I will say a reliable 4.6 is much easier to come by. Its been my experience with some of my friends 5.0s that there is also something to work on, some other small issue that we'll have to get to later. Fix that and discover another small problem that we'll have to get to later. Both are fun but for reliability, 4.6 is the route to go. Im not just saying that because I have one. I would like to build a 5.0 but I won't rely on it.

 

[03_TrueBlue_GT]

My buddy has a 1995 GT 5speed 5.0 with Trick Flow stage 2 heads/cam, full exhaust with shorty headers, 4.10 gears, CAI, Edelbrock upper/lower intake manifold and it runs like a banshee. When he got the car it was bone stock and equipped with an automatic that ran 15.6-15.9's. Now it runs 12.9's at the track. Not bad for just doing some minor bolt ons then a h/c swap imo... I know the tranny swap isnt what most ppl would do but well pretend it was standard all along... Plus the parts are cheaper for the 5.0 for bolt on route. Although y'all are right about reliability problems, his car has had a few hiccups but it runs great when they are taken care of. Tthe worst thing is the gas mileage I think, he gets like 12.5mpg when he drives like a granny in the city and like 17-18 on the highway.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

You're not going to see a reliable 500hp out of either engine without tearing them down and getting into them, donating a healthy amount of coin to the aftermarket. The 5.0L is likely to crack the block at those levels and the 4.6L is likely to spit out it's rotating assembly.

You'll make the most horsepower, with the least amount of work with the '99-up 4.6L and likely have the most reliable combination (up to a certain power level) to boot.

Personally...if you wanted a fast, daily driver that you had to do minimal work do, i'd go with the '99-up 4.6L and go straight for the blower swap. You’ll make an honest 340-380rwhp (depending on the system and state of tune) and still knock out 25mpg on the highway, without changing the driving characteristics of the car at all.

If you like getting your hands dirty and don't feel right owning a Mustang unless you're playing with something....go ahead and get yourself a 5.0L car. There are a gazillion aftermarket parts and combinations out there to play with, a very healthy aftermarket as well as a massive used parts aftermarket.

If you stay basic, the 4.6L is going to be cheaper and simpler to work with, with the biggest payout...but if you get fancy, count on blowing your nut on either car. They're both capable of draining your wallet in a hurry if you let things get out of hand.

 

[Bob Hughes]

Did you say you're budget is $12-15k? Why not look for a terminator.....sure you can find a hardtop in that price range. You can make 500hp from one for less than $1000 and youre drivetrain will more than handle it. I'm not so sure about mpg numbers I'm getting 14-15mpg with 3.27s at 450hp

 

[95Vert383AOD]

How are the smog laws in your state ? If you get a 94-95 you could swap a 351w/5.8L roller motor in with a blower for extra displacement and what not.... would be a fairly easy swap. I'm a fan of the push rod motors.... or I was until the new 5.0 came out.......

This is why i built my 351 based motor. Modular parts ain't cheap. Neither are SBF parts at that power level but the more displacement you have the easier it is to achieve on pump gas in lower rpms. a 408 could nail the numbers hes looking for without forced induction.

 

[Sharad]

I don't think there's a bad choice here, 5.0 or 4.6. You'll need good suspension and tires, fuel and boost. It's cheaper to put HCI on a 5.0 than a 4.6, I wouldn't let that be the deciding factor.

Just buy the CLEANEST SN95 you can afford, and build up from there.

 

[95PGTTech]

if you want a cheap(er) 10 second car you should be getting a Fox.
honestly, with your goals, buy whatever you come across in the best condition/miles for the price.
both will have to be so modified it will matter little what you started with.