Afr to lean at 18 wot

Creomod

5 Year Member
Sep 14, 2018
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San Antonio,Texas
I went ahead and got my other mustang running. I replaced my fuel pump with a stock autozone one . I think I’m running fuel pressure at 38. I was running a bbk 110 fp but now with the autozone I’m running way to lean . So I read somewhere that increasing fuel pressure can be equivalent to a bigger fuel pump so how high can I go on my fuel pressure? I have 30 lb fuel injectors , gt 40 heads . Anyone have a link to that conversion chart? I can’t find it
 
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Thinking about it I’m not sure if I remember incorrectly. I’m not sure if increased fuel pressure to make up for injector size or increased fuel pressure to get closer to a bigger fuel pump. I just ordered a 155 from lmr but it’s gonna take days
 
ECU is expecting 39 psi with the vacuum discounted for the stock fuel tables. People have bumped fuel pressure but the ECU will try and compensate.

Is the car tuned or do you have a MAF calibrated to the 30 lb/hr injectors?
 
I have the mad calibrated to 30 lb injectors. I also believe they did something to the a9l because I’ve tried several times switching to 19s and 19 maf and car wouldn’t start. Every time I start car it surges till I hold gas few seconds then it evens out idel. That just started happening. Also the afr is running lower leaner then before . I tried all kinds of stuff. All day today scince I woke up atb7 till now .Tried checking coil. 12 v,ignition switch12, switched iac, new fuel filter,pump and even a battery w terminals bought yesterday. 12 v on injectors,changed distributor,change ecc relay, new fuel relay,changed some vacuum lines. I’m thinking the fuel regulator. I don’t see or really smell fuel in vacuum line but that’s the only thing I could think of.I am getting code 85,67 I’ve had those before didn’t give me problems now I’m getting 29,34. I have 12 v coil wire ignition switch. Can a bad regulator cause surging?Also I was just reading something about a bad injector. I have never been able to do a cylinder balance test I have the code reader can you please explain how to do that? I haven’t changed spark plugs or wires. I don’t think that would cause surging
 
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It's my understanding that a code 67 will keep the cylinder balance test functioning, clutch depressed, trans in neutral, ac off. Auto trans would be in park, ac off.
Ah, I'm confused with 30lb injectors/maf, so it must have a chip, maybe this is malfunctioning :shrug:
FPR don't smell fuel in the vac line and pressure is steady doing the right things it likely good.
Oh, there was a point when my scanner prompted me to 'blip' the throttle to start the balance test.
 
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I'm beginning to think that the EEC is not in perfect working order.

Check the back of it for a "chip". If there's nothing in the port and the car will not run with either the [new MAF and 30's] or the [old MAF and 19s] then my suspicion would be the EEC.

On a similar note: I know a lot of folks that have put [tunes] on-top of calibrated meters and larger injectors. Running 30s and larger, even [with] a calibrated meter, doesn't always give good street manners.

Did you say why you're running the 30s?
 
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I'm beginning to think that the EEC is not in perfect working order.

Check the back of it for a "chip". If there's nothing in the port and the car will not run with either the [new MAF and 30's] or the [old MAF and 19s] then my suspicion would be the EEC.

On a similar note: I know a lot of folks that have put [tunes] on-top of calibrated meters and larger injectors. Running 30s and larger, even [with] a calibrated meter, doesn't always give good street manners.

Did you say why you're running the 30s?
No chip I just sent it to ecu exchange. Ok I ran the cylinder balance test ! Showed code 21 just bought extra sensor and I have a 80,60,50,30 ! Cannot be spark plug or wires ? Can bad plug wires cause me to run lean?
 
I haven’t ran a compression test I could not put the hose in the hole I have gt40 heads. My car has a really bad idel as soon as I start it it wants to shut off also when car is on no cel light . If valves or rings were bad wouldn’t get a gel light? I swapped my other cars ecu and did the same thing. Any ideas on what could cause this? Along with the 90,80,60,50 and 30 I hit 21 running code and 12. Can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause this ? What can cause my symptom? I just swapped out to efi valve covers from the carbureted valve covers with fuel breathers. Had no issue then at all with idel
 
CEL will only illuminate due to emission related codes. Back to the valve covers, which ones do you currently have on it? EFI does not like any air getting into the engine that is not measured through the mass air meter. If the valve covers have "breathers" on them this will cause an idle issue.
 
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CEL will only illuminate due to emission related codes. Back to the valve covers, which ones do you currently have on it? EFI does not like any air getting into the engine that is not measured through the mass air meter. If the valve covers have "breathers" on them this will cause an idle issue.
It ran better with the ones with the breathers lol! Now I have these the sniper efi ones. Do you think a bad regulator can just not be working properly? Without it leaking fuel?
 

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If that MSD distributor has a MSD TFI and PiP then those would immediately be suspect for me. More people have had problems with them than not.

Is there fuel in the FPR vacuum line?
 
If that MSD distributor has a MSD TFI and PiP then those would immediately be suspect for me. More people have had problems with them than not.

Is there fuel in the FPR vacuum line?
I have another new spare distributor with tfi and as for the fuel in the fpr vacuum line I’m really not sure . I don’t see it. I have had one that went bad and it was leaking but I have a feeling that’s what’s going on. At least not leaking but I think it bad. I’m thinking that or the valve covers. Because that was the only change other then transmission rebuilt and new driveshaft
 
I meant noid light. I noticed at the 10 pin on the black when I wiggle it it dropped voltage on my fuel injector connectors down to 4 volts. I’m not sure if that’s what it is but I also changed the flex fuel lines that go at the bottom passenger side car to hard lines. I had new ones from lmr and I bought a standard brand adjustable fpr last night from orilly same as lmr part number still car doing same thing. Now I’m going to junkyard to find 30 or 24 lb fuel injectors.
 
ok so I found a anti spark plug fouler and that helped me do the compression test! I cheacked 3,5,6,8 and they are all good at 90 psi. The engine is stock bottom end. Last time I did compression test it was the same . So at least I don’t have to worry about compression at least not now.