AOD Swap part list with questions

65fastback2+2

New Member
Aug 4, 2003
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Louisville, KY
OK, im trying to get all the parts in order, so heres a list and questions.

1. TV Cable, will the thunderbird tv cable work or do I need the $60 one from dark horse?

2. Can the crossmember be modified on my c4 to fit the AOD or do I must-have order the AOD $130 one from dark horse?

3. I know you get the carb bracket kickdown. Got that on the list

anything else I need or should know?
 
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the c-4 crossmember will not work, you might be able to get away with the c-6/fmx crossmember i know it works on 69/70 cars with some minor trimming but i'm not sure about the 67/68 cars. i also don't have a clue on the tv cable you currently have, if it was from a carb'd or throttle body injected car it will probably work fine, SEFI port injection car is out though. did you get the block plate that goes with aod as well? the c-4 block plate won't work the aod.
 
Here is my take on an AOD swap after doing mine:

1. TV cable: AODs are particularly sensitive to TV cable adjustment, so it's best to set it up right from the start. If you're carb'd, just buy a universal carb version from Lokar or the like. This is the one NPD and others sell. I think it's like $50 or so from Lokar or Summit. I've got one, it's easy enough to setup and works fine.

2. Crossmember: Your original C4, C6, FMX crossmember will not work without modification. You can buy a proper crossmember from lots of places. Or consider making your own like we did. Take some measurements, mock up a model, weld it up. We modeled ours after the Windsor-Fox version and it cost $35 to make including paying the welder for 40 minutes of his time. You may however be able to use your original mount, as I did. It should bolt onto the AOD no problem. Still, a new proper mount is fairly inexpensive, so if yours is old, just replace it.

3. Flex plate: you'll need a 164 tooth flex plate with the correct balance for your motor. Early Ford small blocks were 28 oz., later ones (like roller 5.0s) were 50 oz. You can get a new correct SFI rated flex plate from lots of places, like NPD, for less than $60.

4. Block plate. You'll want to use the AOD block plate. You can use an FMX plate, but it won't allow for proper mounting of the access/dust plate. Ask me how I know... :rolleyes:

5. Shifter adapter: I got the Windsor-Fox version, and it was pricey at $54. I think you could probably fab up your own fairly easily for a lot less. I would if I were to do it again.

6. Starter: you'll need a starter to match the flex plate. You can probably use a starter for a '70 351W with an FMX like I did.

7. Driveshaft: you may or may not need to modify the length of your driveshaft. I didn't have to on my '70 Mach, converting from an FMX to the AOD. I've heard on earlier cars and cars with a C4, it is necessary to shorten the driveshaft an inch or 2. My respectful opinion is that you mount up the AOD and measure for the correct driveshaft length, then decide if your original will work or not.

8. Which AOD?: There is another thread running asking about this... It is best to use an AOD from either a 5.0 equipped car, or a turbo coupe or SC. If you get one from a column shift car, you'll have to flip the shifter mechanism inside the AOD. You can get it to work without doing so, but the shifter doesn't function quite right... hard to find the right gear, detents don't line up etc. Another "ask me how I know..." :rolleyes:

I think that's it, or at least all I can think of at the moment... Hope it helps. :shrug:
 
DarkBuddha said:
Here is my take on an AOD swap after doing mine:

1. TV cable: AODs are particularly sensitive to TV cable adjustment, so it's best to set it up right from the start. If you're carb'd, just buy a universal carb version from Lokar or the like. This is the one NPD and others sell. I think it's like $50 or so from Lokar or Summit. I've got one, it's easy enough to setup and works fine.

2. mounting bracket: Your original C4, C6, FMX mount will not work without modification. You can buy a proper mount from lots of places. Or consider making your own like we did. Take some measurements, mock up a model, weld it up. We modeled ours after the Windsor-Fox version and it cost $35 to make including paying the welder for 40 minutes of his time.

3. Flex plate: you'll need a 164 tooth flex plate with the correct balance for your motor. Early Ford small blocks were 28 oz., later ones (like roller 5.0s) were 50 oz. You can get a new correct SFI rated flex plate from lots of places, like NPD, for less than $60.

4. Block plate. You'll want to use the AOD block plate. You can use an FMX plate, but it won't allow for proper mounting of the access/dust plate. Ask me how I know... :rolleyes:

5. Shifter adapter: I got the Windsor-Fox version, and it was pricey at $54. I think you could probably fab up your own fairly easily for a lot less. I would if I were to do it again.

6. Starter: you'll need a starter to match the flex plate. You can probably use a starter for a '70 351W with an FMX like I did.

7. Driveshaft: you may or may not need to modify the length of your driveshaft. I didn't have to on my '70 Mach, converting from an FMX to the AOD. I've heard on earlier cars and cars with a C4, it is necessary to shorten the driveshaft an inch or 2. My respectful opinion is that you mount up the AOD and measure for the correct driveshaft length, then decide if your original will work or not.

8. Which AOD?: There is another thread running asking about this... It is best to use an AOD from either a 5.0 equipped car, or a turbo coupe or SC. If you get one from a column shift car, you'll have to flip the shifter mechanism inside the AOD. You can get it to work without doing so, but the shifter doesn't function quite right... hard to find the right gear, detents don't line up etc. Another "ask me how I know..." :rolleyes:

I think that's it, or at least all I can think of at the moment... Hope it helps. :shrug:

that looks great, what about the crossmember???
 
I posted this to you other thread RE: the cable:

Unless someone has started to make a new adapter (haven't seen the summit one) you need the Lokar or Total Performance kit.

The problem is that the geometry of the AOD is such that if you simply hook the TV cable to the carb the TV valve bottoms before the carb reaches WOT. Bottoming the TV valve is bad for it and your wallet. If you adjust it so that it doesn't bottom you end up with low TV pressure at part throttle, which is also bad for the AOD and your wallet. Be aware you will need a good oil pressure guage and a couple of adapters to tap into the line pressure on the AOD. You set the TV cable with the oil pressure guage. It is a PITA.

When I did my Crown Vic I was able to find a hole in the carbs linkage that would work (thus I didn't have to weld the lever that lokar will provide to the carb.) but it would never have worked without the longer lever that they provide for the tranny.

I used a Holley, the kit should work with any 4V, but I wouldn't count on finding a hole that worked without welding on anything but a Holley.
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65fastback2+2 said:
that looks great, what about the crossmember???
See #2... I called it the "mounting bracket", but you're more correct in calling it a crossmember. I think making one is plenty simple, especially if you can weld it up yourself. When we did ours, it took a total of maybe 2 hours between measuring, fabricating a model, sourcing the metal stock, and having the welder weld it up, all for $35. It would've taken 3 days and $115 from NPD or Windsor-Fox. :bs:

BTW, you can probably use your original mount, but a new one is cheap. You might also consider doing the old racer's trick of a hose clamp or 2 around it to limit the amount of flex. Just a thought...


EDIT: I'm going to edit my previous post to read more correctly "crossmember" and mention the mount just to clarify.
 
DarkBuddha said:
See #2... I called it the "mounting bracket", but you're more correct in calling it a crossmember. I think making one is plenty simple, especially if you can weld it up yourself. When we did ours, it took a total of maybe 2 hours between measuring, fabricating a model, sourcing the metal stock, and having the welder weld it up, all for $35. It would've taken 3 days and $115 from NPD or Windsor-Fox. :bs:

BTW, you can probably use your original mount, but a new one is cheap. You might also consider doing the old racer's trick of a hose clamp or 2 around it to limit the amount of flex. Just a thought...


EDIT: I'm going to edit my previous post to read more correctly "crossmember" and mention the mount just to clarify.

hey, is there anyway you could get another one fabbed for me and i just pay you???
 
DarkBuddha said:
Here is my take on an AOD swap after doing mine:


6. Starter: you'll need a starter to match the flex plate. You can probably use a starter for a '70 351W with an FMX like I did.

7. Driveshaft: you may or may not need to modify the length of your driveshaft. I didn't have to on my '70 Mach, converting from an FMX to the AOD. I've heard on earlier cars and cars with a C4, it is necessary to shorten the driveshaft an inch or 2. My respectful opinion is that you mount up the AOD and measure for the correct driveshaft length, then decide if your original will work or not.

8. Which AOD?: There is another thread running asking about this... It is best to use an AOD from either a 5.0 equipped car, or a turbo coupe or SC. If you get one from a column shift car, you'll have to flip the shifter mechanism inside the AOD. You can get it to work without doing so, but the shifter doesn't function quite right... hard to find the right gear, detents don't line up etc. Another "ask me how I know..." :rolleyes:

I think that's it, or at least all I can think of at the moment... Hope it helps. :shrug:




I just wanted to say that I used my starter out of my 65. The driveshaft we did have to cut down an inch and my AOD came out of an 88 crownvic. I did not have to flip the shifter inside the AOD. I thought that I was going to have to but we tried it and it works fine and lines up.
 
Fostang said:
Talking about the shifter adapter.

Would this happen to look kinda like the stock one just bent a little different?

Have any pics so I can give myself and idea.

Thanks I appreciate it.
No, it's a rod that attaches at one end to the shifter and to the AOD at the other end. I don't have any pics of the one I bought, but you can see an example at the top of this pic: http://groups.msn.com/DBsMustang/misclaneous.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=64

Like I said, I think you could fab one up pretty cheap with a little effort.

65fastback2+2 said:
hey, is there anyway you could get another one fabbed for me and i just pay you???
Sorry, but unfortunately no... We did ours as a one off and didn't keep any of the details or measurements; we didn't think it was important at the time. Besides, there is that great sense of pride and achievement when you do it yourself. Here is what I can do... take a look at these pics:

Here is the '65-'66 Windsor-Fox crossmember that we used for inspiration (same pic as above): http://groups.msn.com/DBsMustang/misclaneous.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=64

mine and pop's version: http://groups.msn.com/DBsMustang/misclaneous.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=65

You can see how simple the design is. some square stock, some flat stock, some measurements for width and angles, and a quick mock up. So just get under there and go for it! :nice:
 
txwoody said:
I just wanted to say that I used my starter out of my 65. The driveshaft we did have to cut down an inch and my AOD came out of an 88 crownvic. I did not have to flip the shifter inside the AOD. I thought that I was going to have to but we tried it and it works fine and lines up.
Nice. Sounds like you had some good luck with the swap. I wonder if the '65-'66 shifter just lines up better with the column shift AODs??? :shrug:
 
Well I can say I got a lot of info here and the tech pages at Windsor-fox are a lot of help also. The TV cable was the hardest part to set, a lot of driveing up and down the street untill it was right. The one from lokar it a nice peice but dont buy it from Windsor-fox, its like 80 bucks from them and you can get it else where cheaper. I found out the hard way. Well have fun and let us know how it went.
 
txwoody said:
Well I can say I got a lot of info here and the tech pages at Windsor-fox are a lot of help also. The TV cable was the hardest part to set, a lot of driveing up and down the street untill it was right. The one from lokar it a nice peice but dont buy it from Windsor-fox, its like 80 bucks from them and you can get it else where cheaper. I found out the hard way. Well have fun and let us know how it went.

well i read a AOD swap article off of mustang monthly and they said just set the TV cable to 35 pounds with it in park. So, it actually sounded easy to me course what do i know
 
I think to do that you have to have a trans pressure guage to set that. I dont remember its been awhile since I did mine. I do know that we did not my cousin my cousin keep forgetting it, he is a trans tech at the local ford house he even got me the tranny and rebuilt it for me. That was nice it only cost me like 300 for all the parts and thats including the shift kit, he rebuilt it when he was not busy. I got lucky.
 
65fastback2+2 said:
well i read a AOD swap article off of mustang monthly and they said just set the TV cable to 35 pounds with it in park. So, it actually sounded easy to me course what do i know

Don't set the pressure in PARK. It needs to be set in NEUTRAL. Carry on...