Hey, i was talking to my auto shop teacher, and reading in magazines, and my teacher said dump some gears into mine and i'll be just about as quick as a GT. The magazine said so as well. I was thinking 3.73, or 4.10s. Anyone have these in their car, or anyone do a gear swap before? But i was curious, what will this do for my gas mileage? Will my engine red line on me at WOT?
As fast as a GT for $200??
- Thread starter Lynx331
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GREENBIOCH
Founding Member
Gears are worth more than 200 bucks after all is said and done and they are worth about 0.5secs in the quarter mile. Very worth while investment, but beat a GT depends what year are we talking?
Lynx331 said:
gears don't even give you HP, they let you hit your power band faster, so if you hp stays the same you hit the same HP just sooner, they have LOTS MORE power than V6's
3.73's for everyday drivers are great, i have them. Your engine will rev faster thats for sure, so it will pull differently..so don't be scared if you hit redline here and there
NOTE: gears alone are like 200, plus the instal is like 200 if you take it somewhere. And if you have a v6 you need a tlok as well..another 200 or so. then a speedo gear to fix your speedometer and it not going nuts...its about $600 when u are done
but by me hitting the redline like that, will i endanger my engine. And me and my dad would be installing the gears, that way we wouldn't have to pay someone to do them. But about gas mileage, is this going to totally murder my gas milage?
Also, what will my highway be like, im not on them often, but i do get on them once in a while
Also, what will my highway be like, im not on them often, but i do get on them once in a while
well you will of course be running at HIGHER RPM's when you are on the freeway. They do of course in turn affect your gas mileage b/c you rev faster.
its not as big of deal as you think that the needle JUMPS to redline, it just goes up a bit faster, you get used to it after 1 week its no biggie, but when you need to downshift in the freeway it feels nice!
its not as big of deal as you think that the needle JUMPS to redline, it just goes up a bit faster, you get used to it after 1 week its no biggie, but when you need to downshift in the freeway it feels nice!
Emberghost
New Member
So with new gears and a tlok are you saying it can run with some stock GT's? Forgive me if I am incredibly wrong, I am still learning.
Lynx331:
Not that I am questioning you or your dad's ability to work on your car but have a shop put in the gears. They are VERY tricky, and must meet STRICT tolerances when installing. If these are not met or just skewed in the least little bit, you will get at minimum whining and screeching from them, at worst you can destroy the whole assemby down there. Because of this I recommend going to a shop near you, especially if they have put them in before, that way if they hose it up they have to pay for all they mess up. Just a suggestion. Either way good luck with them, but as EVal95 said get T-Lok as well, this will help you get traction to both wheels. Good luck.
Not that I am questioning you or your dad's ability to work on your car but have a shop put in the gears. They are VERY tricky, and must meet STRICT tolerances when installing. If these are not met or just skewed in the least little bit, you will get at minimum whining and screeching from them, at worst you can destroy the whole assemby down there. Because of this I recommend going to a shop near you, especially if they have put them in before, that way if they hose it up they have to pay for all they mess up. Just a suggestion. Either way good luck with them, but as EVal95 said get T-Lok as well, this will help you get traction to both wheels. Good luck.
doc4444 said:
This guy took the words out of my mouth.....well some of them......unless dad is a mechanic and has all the right tools and knows his stuff about 8.8" rearends in a stang and has done this before I would pay somebody to do it for the exact reason......you can blame them. But yes, they gonna make a big difference. Your question is very basic......there are many GT's some are much faster than others.....by asking a question like this alone I strongly recommend sending your car to a mechanic.
Could you not do the gear swap in class with the teacher?
GREENBIOCH
Founding Member
X2
Ernad
celibate sans pants
marvinmycat
Founding Member
You're going to have to get the ring and pinion gear install kit (the expensive one) as well inorder to put just gears or T-lok and gears in BTW. 50retso.com has what you need in that department. GEFRacing has the best prices on gears and T-loks, FYI.
I wouldn't trust a back yard mechanic or a shop teacher to put this in my car. You would be better off getting a warantee on the work as the first thing that will go on a crappy install is the T-lok. The ring and pinion gears would go next as well as the axle bearings. Thus making you get everything all over again, minus maybe, the gears.
Almost forgot. For the same year GT as your car, you could probably hang with or actually beat a GT off the line for about maybe the 100, 150 feet, but the GT would blow by you in the end.
I wouldn't trust a back yard mechanic or a shop teacher to put this in my car. You would be better off getting a warantee on the work as the first thing that will go on a crappy install is the T-lok. The ring and pinion gears would go next as well as the axle bearings. Thus making you get everything all over again, minus maybe, the gears.
Almost forgot. For the same year GT as your car, you could probably hang with or actually beat a GT off the line for about maybe the 100, 150 feet, but the GT would blow by you in the end.
Tylerb59
Banned
4.10s in a 99+ v6 would certainly give a SN95 GT some trouble. I doubt you'd be able to keep up with a 99+ GT though even with minimal bolt ons.
Would 3.73's still be pretty good? Because i don't want to tear up what gas mileage i have already, and i still want to be able to have a nice highway speed. Do i have to put a T-Lok in when i do the gears? Or can i go without it? How much is that extra? Would you guys reccommend this for me? It does snow around here and rain alot so? If i do this, i hope maybe i can keep up with my buddies 92 camaro, for a little bit.. lol And what about my red line, wont i be stressing my engine when i floor it and it hits the redline?
Tylerb59
Banned
You'll notice a difference, but if you're going to go with steeper gears might as well choose the option with the most pick up. Otherwise you'll be regretting your decision to go with the lower gears while you're behind in a race.
Every bit helps.
Do it.
Every bit helps.
Do it.
i am also considering gears for a near future upgrade(not too near in the future as i just blew a bunch of $$$ on my spintech dual side exit cat back kit, ill post on that when it comes). i have a 5spd and was considering 3.73, and tlok is def lookin like a good thing to get with it cause i can not get both wheels to hook. just wondering what the difference between the 4.10s and 3.73(or n e other gears) would be. i have heard that 3.73s r better for daily driving but i cant remember if that was different for 5spd as opposed to autos(or if im just confused) im sure n e more help will be apreciated by more than just myself
ChrisYellowV6
New Member
i've been somewhat interested in new gears, i just have a couple questions on them. you were saying the 3.73 gears would make the engine run at a higher rpm, so it'll be quicker but due to running higher i'll use more gas....what will be the mpg difference? and how much of a difference will there be on my accel? also, what is a T-lock? And will replacing my gears with a 3.73 void the warranty?
twogts4us
15 Year Member
marvinmycat
Founding Member
3.73 gears are what most people put on a 5 speed. 4.10's are good for automatics as they are only four-speed. A T-lok is a limited slip differential unit that allows both tires to spin and not just one. The limited slip allows the tires to rotate at different speeds when making turns so that way your tires won't chirp or skip. When installing gears and/or a T-lok, you will also need an install kit. The kit comes with all the shims, bearings, inner axle bearings, gasket, and some other goodies for the mechanic. Other than that, you will also need 4 oz. of Ford friction modifier, and you might as well get a set of outer axle bearings, so when they install the stuff, they can replace those too as the axles have to be popped out anyway. Only use Ford friction modifier on Ford rear ends, don't use any other brand! Trust me on this one. Lastly, you are going to require the appropriate speedcal, which is a little gear that goes into your tranny to help correct the speedomter. 3.73 and 4.10 gears require the 28-tooth gear (I think). They don't make a gear specifically for the 4.10's so you will either have to have a buddy pace you, and reposition your speedo needle manually, or on the 99+ Mustangs, you can do the same, or get an electronic calibration unit. Don't know if the last option is available for auto's though.
On a side note, your odometer will be off, and will clock more miles than you actually travel, but stick to your maintenance schedule anyway, as the motor is working harder now. SO when the odomter says 3K miles, go go get that oil changed.
After you install the kit, have the fluid replaced after 500 miles in the rear end, and have them check everything out just to be on the safe side.
3.73's on a standard won't hurt your gas milage too bad depending on how much highway driving you do. 4.10's on a standard are going to cut into the milage.
3.73's on an auto are probably a waste of time, and you won't get the full benefit of the acceleration mod that you are doing. 4.10's are decent for our v6's.
GEFracing.com has the gears, and T-lok, speedo gear.
50retso.com has the install kit (you will need the expensive one).
Texasmustang.com has the electronic speedo recalibration chip (I think?)
Ford OEM T-lok is nice, but the cream of the crop is the Eaton Posi unit (or T-lok). It has a conical clutch system instead, is rebuildable, and one of the best units out there. Although, you are going to spend three times more for this unit than the OEM one.
Also, a lot of people convert to the 8.8 rear end, but you can get forged axles for your 7.5 rear and be every bit as strong as the 8.8. Just an FYI.
On a side note, your odometer will be off, and will clock more miles than you actually travel, but stick to your maintenance schedule anyway, as the motor is working harder now. SO when the odomter says 3K miles, go go get that oil changed.
After you install the kit, have the fluid replaced after 500 miles in the rear end, and have them check everything out just to be on the safe side.
3.73's on a standard won't hurt your gas milage too bad depending on how much highway driving you do. 4.10's on a standard are going to cut into the milage.
3.73's on an auto are probably a waste of time, and you won't get the full benefit of the acceleration mod that you are doing. 4.10's are decent for our v6's.
GEFracing.com has the gears, and T-lok, speedo gear.
50retso.com has the install kit (you will need the expensive one).
Texasmustang.com has the electronic speedo recalibration chip (I think?)
Ford OEM T-lok is nice, but the cream of the crop is the Eaton Posi unit (or T-lok). It has a conical clutch system instead, is rebuildable, and one of the best units out there. Although, you are going to spend three times more for this unit than the OEM one.
Also, a lot of people convert to the 8.8 rear end, but you can get forged axles for your 7.5 rear and be every bit as strong as the 8.8. Just an FYI.
My gear upgrade experience
I just thought I'd pass along my experience with the gear upgrade for all you people considering this. First off, I don't regret getting it done at all...the extra pick-up is great and probably the best performance mod you can do without cracking open the motor. I have a 97 5 speed with the standard assortment of bolt-ons. I chose the 3.45's because I do drive a fair amount on the freeways. For those of you concerned about mileage....I used to get around 330mi/tank and now its more like 290-300 - not that big a deal. I had a Auburn posi thrown in at the same time. The shop I took it to quoted me $275 to put it all in, but when I went to pick it up, it was $505. >:-( It was great for about two months....I loved it, but driving home one night I felt and heard this terrible bang from the rear end. I got it home and opened it up....the morons didnt tighten the ring gear bolts and one went through the gears. I promptly took it back to the shop, but they dont warranty that sort of thing, so I had to buy a second set of gears and then pay AGAIN to have it installed - this time they cut me a "deal" at $300. Within a couple months, the rear started to whine, and it only got worse as more time went by. I knew that one shop wouldnt make good, so I did some more research and found another place to inspect it...who promptly told me that the gears were set up wrong and would eventually die a miserable death. So I get a third freaking set of gears, and these people charge me $250 to put it in. All seems well. For awhile. I start hearing a clunk at low speeds...which usually is the u-joints, right? Not this time, cuz I had already put in a aluminum driveshaft with new u-joints. No, its play in the gears and they are going south fast. Now it whines lounder than my exhaust. That brings me up to date...I have officially given up on teenage punks in a speedshop to set the damn thing. By next week I will have saved enough money to buy a whole new third member - brand spankin new from the factory 8.8 with 3.27's and a new T-Loc. With a warranty. So the moral of the story is this: while the mod is well worth it, dont try this at home folks, and make damn sure you trust the place thats gonna do the work.
I just thought I'd pass along my experience with the gear upgrade for all you people considering this. First off, I don't regret getting it done at all...the extra pick-up is great and probably the best performance mod you can do without cracking open the motor. I have a 97 5 speed with the standard assortment of bolt-ons. I chose the 3.45's because I do drive a fair amount on the freeways. For those of you concerned about mileage....I used to get around 330mi/tank and now its more like 290-300 - not that big a deal. I had a Auburn posi thrown in at the same time. The shop I took it to quoted me $275 to put it all in, but when I went to pick it up, it was $505. >:-( It was great for about two months....I loved it, but driving home one night I felt and heard this terrible bang from the rear end. I got it home and opened it up....the morons didnt tighten the ring gear bolts and one went through the gears. I promptly took it back to the shop, but they dont warranty that sort of thing, so I had to buy a second set of gears and then pay AGAIN to have it installed - this time they cut me a "deal" at $300. Within a couple months, the rear started to whine, and it only got worse as more time went by. I knew that one shop wouldnt make good, so I did some more research and found another place to inspect it...who promptly told me that the gears were set up wrong and would eventually die a miserable death. So I get a third freaking set of gears, and these people charge me $250 to put it in. All seems well. For awhile. I start hearing a clunk at low speeds...which usually is the u-joints, right? Not this time, cuz I had already put in a aluminum driveshaft with new u-joints. No, its play in the gears and they are going south fast. Now it whines lounder than my exhaust. That brings me up to date...I have officially given up on teenage punks in a speedshop to set the damn thing. By next week I will have saved enough money to buy a whole new third member - brand spankin new from the factory 8.8 with 3.27's and a new T-Loc. With a warranty. So the moral of the story is this: while the mod is well worth it, dont try this at home folks, and make damn sure you trust the place thats gonna do the work.
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