For most track's "test and tune" night, they generally don't do any inspections like that. At our local track, they don't even care about helmets, battery switches, or any of that. It's when you are racing in an actual class at an actual event when you're going to get inspected. Test and tune nights are for just that, testing and tuning and basically practicing your driving skills....they're not actual sanctioned events.
At our local tracks, on test and tune night, they just take your money, write a number on your windows and make you sign the disclaimer sheet... then off you go! I've seen total hunks of junk racing on test/tune night with their trunks flapping up and down, taillights and other parts falling off the cars, it's amazing.
As for the battery thing....to be legal for an event, the battery has to be sealed and vented (for a hatch car), with a visible cut-off switch on the outside rear of the car with the "on" and "off" positions clearly marked, and the box must be solidly bolted through the floor. In a trunk car, it just has to be bolted through the floor and have the same cut-off switch. The cheapo' Summit battery box kit would probably be ok in a trunk car, but definately not in a hatch car, since it's not sealed. The only way it will pass in a hatch car is if a rear firewall is fabricated.... which I have seen done, but just getting a proper battery box is WAY easier than that.
Hope this helps!
*EDIT* Wrathchild is also correct... The dry-cell batteries like Optima are also an option, although kind of expensive.
I don't even try to got to RT66 unless it's the NHRA OR NMRA OR A DIV# 3 RACE 
They need more test & tune nites at that place.
