- Mar 25, 2014
- 69
- 1
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Well, I knew going into the cam swap that there was a chance for some "issues" to occur. I was mainly worried with the studs pulling out since the engine is a 73 and has press in studs. I think it all started when I first fired up the engine for the break in. On the driver side I had (notice I said had, lol) a tapping noise as if the rocker was loose. I went through adjusting the valves while the engine was running to try an eliminate what I thought was over-tight rockers or possibly a lifter that had not pumped up causing a miss. After the car had run for about an hour or so, I took it for a 3-4 mile ride and it ran fine other than a still existing missfire and tappingfrom the driverside bank of cylinders. The next day I started it up and let it run for a bit then had my brother put it in drive so I could set the idle. Coincidentally, as soon as it went into drive a noise that I did not appreciate arrived under the driver side valve cover. Sure enough the stud broke below the boss in the head.
I am trying to figure out what caused it. When the valves are fully open the springs have plenty of room between the coils, and the push rods are still straight. I should be able to replace this one with a screw in to see what happens.
What I have noticed is that the fulcrum that sits in the rocker under the nut seems excessively worn and that also the nut is run all the way down on the threads. I talked to my boss who runs the shop I work at and offered that the lifter could be bad causing the tapping noise and therefore caused me to tighten to nut to far down on the stud stressing it.
Any ideas would be appreciated. I am not to familiar with valve train geometry or other possible causes.
I am trying to figure out what caused it. When the valves are fully open the springs have plenty of room between the coils, and the push rods are still straight. I should be able to replace this one with a screw in to see what happens.
What I have noticed is that the fulcrum that sits in the rocker under the nut seems excessively worn and that also the nut is run all the way down on the threads. I talked to my boss who runs the shop I work at and offered that the lifter could be bad causing the tapping noise and therefore caused me to tighten to nut to far down on the stud stressing it.
Any ideas would be appreciated. I am not to familiar with valve train geometry or other possible causes.