The car cranks over right, and 8 and 10 both show power, but 12 and 24 are causing the fuse to blow. It sounds like there is a short in one of those wires, it could be a break in a wire, a chafed/bare wire grounding out. Did you check the ground wire coming from the ccrm to to make sure it was grounded well pin 15 I believe. Sorry, trying to make sense of it all, Ive read thru all 4 pages twice.
Car Left Me Stranded... UGH! HELP!!!
- Thread starter Adam95GT
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When I had my problem with that sable, the airbag light started blinking in a series ,then it would just stay on. I thought it was a bad airbag sensor, or clockspring also, but it wasn't, just the backup power for the airbags was low. There was like a blue box under the dash for the air bags power supply, so in case of an accident, the battery gets messed up or whatever, it would still have enough stored power the airbags would deploy in an accident. When I got the wiring sorted out, and replaced the battery the airbag light went off,never saw it again.
would a blown ignition coil casue this... we tested it and the secondary resistance is out of spec...almost a dead short...
yea i tried that it still blows... whats the big mess of wires connected on the pass side fire will with the 10mm screw connector??? with that disconnected the fuse holds...
bump for the day.. anyone know where thoes wires go... its like i dissconnect that connector for a bit... and connect it again... the short is gone... then it will come back...
yea i tried that it still blows... whats the big mess of wires connected on the pass side fire will with the 10mm screw connector??? with that disconnected the fuse holds...
If you mean right at the firewall, those are bulkhead connectors. They are the vessel which gets the wires from the engine bay to the passenger compartment and vice verse.
Unfortunately, disconnecting that connector will fix just about any issue because it's about the same as disconnecting the battery (with the battery disconnected, your issue is also fixed.
Why didn't I recommend that sooner). As much as it sucks, I'd keep doing wiggle tests if that makes sense to do (I'm honestly kind of lost as to where you are currently with what it takes to blow the fuse, and which fuse(s) it is/are that blow under what conditions).
It seemed narrowed down to a short (having two bad CCRM's wouldn't be likely). Finding the short can be a real PITA. Sometimes circumventing it with a new wire if you cant locate the short is the easier choice.
ok here is whats up... im back with the old stock CCRM in... with wires 12 and 24 cut... the fuse holds... i drove it around for awhile today because it will randomly start when i disconnect that connector and re connect it then start it... drove it around... and my spedo is not working at all i had my car going 2.5k in 4th gear... i know thats more then 0mph.... lol... maybe the short is on there some where... .thats never happened b4... the spedo would lag a bit sometimes... but never not work at all... also my air bag light are still on... im not sure if this has to do with the problem... the new CCRM i bought had a bad relay... causing the problem no power to 12 or 24 i was having...... we tested the coil and noticed that i was getting verry little spark... i have a New MSD blaster on the other engine so im gonna swap that over tomorrow and see if it helps.... but ive wiggled every damn harness on the car... i cant get it to stall unless i drive it...
It seems to me that 12 and 24 go to EEC pin 57 (IIRC), and that feeds all the VPWR all over the car. The source of the short could be any of the sensors and solenoids receiving VPWR. You'd literally have to continue to wiggle every harness under the hood till the cows came home to find the issue.
I'm hopin the guys here have a trick to narrow it down further. I actually don't know what a dealership does when tracing such an animal. Wait, they probably replace the entire harness.
Otherwise, finding branches with VPWR and disconnecting them (hoping to disconnect the main systems from the shorted wire) would work if your fuse blew immediately. It doesnt though.
A quality short-finder might be helpful, but even so, I'm not sure how much.
I'll have to think a bit. Let's hope the other guys have some cool ideas.
I'm hopin the guys here have a trick to narrow it down further. I actually don't know what a dealership does when tracing such an animal. Wait, they probably replace the entire harness.
A quality short-finder might be helpful, but even so, I'm not sure how much.
I'll have to think a bit. Let's hope the other guys have some cool ideas.
Bosko5.0
Active Member
did you do any thing with your instrument cluster before this problem occured?
Have you checked the vss sensor on the tranny maybe the contact became corroded.?
Have you checked the vss sensor on the tranny maybe the contact became corroded.?
i think i might have gotten closer to the issue... i cheked the speed sensor which is randomly not working.... When i do get the car started and driving it is now not working at all... I checked the wires for voltage... and i should be seeing voltage on it (haynes repair manuel said so....) key is on and i get nothing... this is leading me to believe... that the PCM is where this short is... also we poped the ditsy open today only to find the rotor melted to a terminal(maybe from checking for spark).... so i changed the rotor and put in a MSD blaster coil i had sitting around... anyone have an old PCM or know how to test one??? The car is running and driving now... and i cant get the short to happen but the VSS is not working at all... i think this may have something to do with the short... im scared to drive it far from my house i just went around the block and hit some big bumps and still no short...
On the VSS: It looks like grey/blk VSS wire should have some sort of voltage.
Pink/ orange on the VSS appears to ground. There's a leg from the VSS ground wire that loops back to the speedo as well (it stays the same color).
Pink/ orange on the VSS appears to ground. There's a leg from the VSS ground wire that loops back to the speedo as well (it stays the same color).
no voltage man nothing at all.... bad pcm??? i actually dropped off my car at a shop... i was driving it all morning with no problem...
Dropped it off at the shop... my mechanic got just as far ass i did... and said he didnt have time to go farther... but he found out if you shook one harness it shorted... with that in mind he told me he could get to my car next week and charge me a few hundred dollars or i could take another crack at it... with this new info i brought it home... me and my grandfather were looking at it... i shook the wire and we saw sparks... It was the wires on the purge canister.... problem solved.... there are new problems however....
Spedo is still not working... sensor is good though...
air bag light continues
i Also took some time to install some C&C plates and a set of toyo proxies are curently being mounted... I need alignment specs for a car on sportlines with kenny brown 3 bolt plates....
Spedo is still not working... sensor is good though...
air bag light continues
i Also took some time to install some C&C plates and a set of toyo proxies are curently being mounted... I need alignment specs for a car on sportlines with kenny brown 3 bolt plates....
I cant get a break... one of the proxies i bought a few months back has a bubble in the side wall... now i have no tires UGH!!!!
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