Carb Tuning Issues

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by lizardsman, May 8, 2013.

  1. idk..stock gap for an ho 5.0 ..the tightest springs wont allow full advance till like 5k..putting the lighter springs on will bring it to 2000-2500 itll almost feel like a small hit of nitrous came on..makes a big diff

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  2. My phone does not always go through, squirters are 37 on both and I have 71 jets to try too. I hate waiting on parts. I have adjustable cams on the accelerator pumps, as I can control when they start to apply pressure based on throttle location. Is that what the cam kit for the holly is?
  3. yea thats the cam kit but a 37 is way too big by a lot for your combo for a squirter...31/32 at the most is what youll need..

    did u say squirters plural?!
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  4. yes, front one set to open right off idle, second one set to open bout 3/4 throttle. Update, got the car to give me a steady reading 8.9-9.0. no matter what I do to idle screws, that does not change. Put in the blue springs, set intial at 18* and got total 36* very quick when I hit the throttle. Only problem, wont return to intial, hovers at about 30* at idle. Shut car off, restart, retards about 60*. Needed a break so came inside. That's with the 71 jets. Should I put some grease between the weights and the plastic thingy underneath? And she likes a lot of fuel.
  5. Figured I'd through this up here, car sat there last night while I was messing with it, in the corner of the house, less noise for the neighbors. Stupid car 001.JPG
  6. i see that happen when the light springs wear out...they get week and the springs wont pull the weights back

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  7. Brand new spring pack, ordered it this week. Did figure out why it retarded, maybe, the msd has 2 settings for v8, one for normal and one that retards the timing 20* when it's under 800rpm. Changed that and once my wife's show's done she'll start it and hold the a/f gauge for me while I try to figure this out. Greased the weights and flipped them to see if it will help. Stay tuned....
  8. Still no luck, called msd and they suggested closing the gap to 25 thoudsandths. Of course that made it worse even with a new set of plugs. So we ch3ecked for spark on several cylinders and the spark looks real weak. Checked at the coil and the spark was a little stronger, but not much. Checked the same plug we used for testing on another vehicle and the spark was noticeably a lot better. My car a real light orange spark, his a real bright almost white blue. Msd said that that is a stupid test and I should just change the coil. I have no problem changing it, and suggestions on if my test data is crap, or useable?
  9. borrow his coil?

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  10. Sorry Haven't been on in a while. I'm running an MSD 8582 with FBO 10deg limiter bushings, one light silver and one light blue spring, and 26 deg initial timing. total timing is 36 deg all in by 2100 rpm,an MSD 6AL box and autolite 3924 plugs gapped at .042.
  11. Me neither, but thank you for getting back to me.
  12. After calling msd they swore it had nothing to do with the distributor. So after chasing the problem of weak and erratic spark I decided to order cap rotor wires. When I did i saw the magnetic pick up for $25. Figured what the hey might as well. Took the old pick up off and go figure the magnet was broke in half. Replaced it a woo ha, back to square one. Now to get the car tuned then back to timing. I have the 71 jets in now. Ran outta daylight before I put the new wires on, but the car does run better and the a/r only jumps a little. But from the car runing so bad and eratic spark I have a bunch of valve knock. Not to bad on compression check, but on my to do list in the near future. Tomorrow I'm gonna change the wires and reset the a/r gauge and and see If I can get it tuned close to where I want. Then go back and unlock the distributer and start messing with that and hopefully I don't break anything else.