Clutch Cable Adjustment

[skiwesser11]

Problem: stock T5 grinds on most hard 2-3 shift as if synchro's are bad, but they're good. Trans was freshened when input shaft broke 7-8k miles ago....problem was already there since engine rebuild.
Only thing I can figure is I don't have cable just right... I've probably got it too loose as I've ruined a clutch from having cable too tight due to stupidity.... I have a firewall adjuster but looser (I guess it's looser when clutch engages not far from floor) or tighter when engagement is say 1/2 of pedal travel...I may have that backwards but either way no difference in shift action.... I have it set where it "feels" right and thres no tension on the fork.....if I'm going to hit 3rd hard I have to put foot through the floor and still will barely grind if I "speed shift" which is not quite what I do anyway lol.... so somethin ain't right.....
it will do it on a normal low rpm shift if I'm too quick with the shifter and lazy on the clutch....any suggestions welcome...am I even on the right track thinking it's the cable?
BTW, relatively new cable & aluminum quadrant along with firewall adjuster.

Thanks in advance

 

[General karthief]

T5s are not good at aggressive shifting, they just don't like it.
Do you have a stock shifter?

 

[skiwesser11]

Yes I realize this but wasn't there before, and it does it about as frequently when I'm just driving normally if I don't make sure pedal to floor before it starts to go into 3rd.
Pro 5.0 shifter that's been in since stock engine.
Thanks!

 

[jrichker]

Clutch Adjustment for stock and aftermarket setups
Revised 28-Apr-2016 to include need for longer cable with single hook quadrant

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable. With a non adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

[/url]

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.


I guess that you don't understand that there is a self-adjusting mechanism for the clutch cable. As the clutch wears the cable tension changes, that is why there is a self-adjusting mechanism built into the clutch pedal. There is a toothed plastic quadrant with a ratchet pawl that engages the quadrant. As you pull up on the clutch pedal, it ratchets and takes any slack out of the clutch cable. Mess around with the pedal or even bump it while the end that fits in the clutch fork is loose, and it tries to take up the slack in the cable. That has the effect of shortening the cable.

You can use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet pawl off the quadrant teeth. That will allow you to move the quadrant to allow more slack in the cable. If the cable is too loose, pull up on the pedal. The ratchet pawl will allow the quadrant to take up the slack in the cable and lock the adjustment.

Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

 

[General karthief]

Sorry, I didn't know the link didn't work.
Thanks @jrichker, you don't get enough recognition for what you do/have done for us.

 

[skiwesser11]

^^^AGREED!!!!
Thanks @jrichker you always answer my questions with awesome info....

I guess and hope it's a matter of fine tuning the adjuster... I do have dbl hook quad but not sure if cable is of stock length but I'm assuming it is....
I know the guy that said it was ok knows what he's talking about no doubt..,.. but if I can't fix it or live with it something must happen lol.

I'm probably on verge of too much torque for the T5 on hard driving anyway.... with traction that is

 

[jrichker]

I am glad to help, hopefully you have got it fixed and can enjoy your ride!

 

[skiwesser11]

What do you think of this gear set for when the T5 does break??
http://www.jegs.com/p/G-Force-Trans...s-And-Mainshaft-Upgrade-Kits/1343713/10002/-1

 

[Dan02gt]

I like to adjust mine by the Maximum Motorsports guide:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/How-to-Adjust-a-Mustang-Clutch-Cable.aspx
How to Adjust a Mustang Clutch Cable

• To reset the stock self-adjusting mechanism, see a standard shop repair manual.
• To adjust an aftermarket firewall adjuster, see below.

Preparing for Adjustment
Before adjusting the clutch cable tension, inspect everything in the system to ensure proper installation. This is especially important when combining parts from different sources.

It's critical to make sure the clutch cable housing stays at right angles to the surfaces at each end it's mounted to. This will minimize slack in the cable system and allow adequate clutch pedal travel.

• Securely attach the firewall adjuster to the firewall.
• Assemble the firewall adjuster correctly using the manufacturer's installation instructions. The adjuster mechanism has two parts: the half bolted to the firewall protrudes into the firewall, not out and away from it.
• Route the cable so the end of the outer housing seats squarely against the adjuster mechanism.
• The transmission end of the clutch cable housing must remain at a right angle to the bell housing. The stock retaining clip, located underneath the clutch fork cover, keeps the cable in the correct position.

Adjusting Clutch Cable Tension
The goal of adjusting the clutch cable is to put enough tension on it to keep the throwout bearing in light contact with the clutch diaphragm fingers, ensuring both proper clutch operation and long clutch life. Do not use the firewall adjuster to customize the pedal height or adjust where in the pedal travel the clutch engages or disengages. (Maximum Motorsports makes Clutch-Pedal Height Adjusters specifically designed to do that job correctly.)

1. Grasp the cable outer housing with one hand.
2. Pull it forward: toward the radiator and away from the firewall. This may take some effort. You need to remove all slack from the system, which forces the throwout bearing (by design) up against the pressure plate diaphragm.
3. If there's no gap between the large, round, flat end of the housing and the front face of the adjuster, thread the adjuster into the firewall until you can see a small gap.
4. While continuing to pull the outer cable housing away from the firewall, rotate the adjuster to thread it in or out of the firewall until the gap is about the thickness of a dime (0.050").

Confirming the Adjustment

• The cable should have just enough tension that the pedal moves down 1/2 in. when you press it with 5-8 lb of force. If the pedal moves more than that, increase the cable tension by screwing the firewall adjuster further out of the firewall. If it takes more than 8 lb of force to move the pedal 1/2 in., decrease the cable tension by screwing the adjuster further into the firewall.
• If the clutch won't disengage when you press the pedal to the floor, increase the cable tension by threading the adjuster out of the firewall.
• If the throwout bearing chirps when the clutch pedal is depressed and with the engine running, there isn't enough tension on the cable.

Periodic Adjustment
As the clutch disc wears, the friction material gets thinner, causing the cable tension to increase. This requires periodic "clutch adjustment," as it's commonly called, to compensate for clutch wear. However, what you actually want to do for regular maintenance is decrease the cable tension. You can do this by threading the adjuster into the firewall following the procedure in the "Adjusting Clutch Cable Tension" section above.

Tech Background
Ford equipped most Fox and all SN95 Mustangs with a self-adjusting mechanism designed to maintain proper clutch cable tension at all times. As the clutch disc wears, the mechanism automatically adjusts the cable tension so the clutch continues to operate correctly through its entire life.

A properly adjusted clutch cable has some tension on it. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. That contact is essential for the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Contrary to popular belief, this is a design feature and does not prematurely wear out the Mustang throwout bearing.

The stock self-adjuster consists of a plastic quadrant/pawl gear assembly. The plastic wears out over time, but aftermarket pressure plates with higher clamp loads speed up that process. Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. The solution is to replace the plastic mechanism with long-lasting metal parts.

The typical replacement is a non-adjustable, aluminum quadrant. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! You must replace it with some method of adjusting cable tension. Maximum Motorsports does this with an assembly called a firewall adjuster, which lets you easily adjust cable tension from under the hood of your Mustang. To compensate for normal clutch disc wear, you'll need to adjust the cable tension periodically.

As the clutch friction disc wears and gets thinner, the end of the diaphragm fingers touching the throwout bearing push on the bearing, applying more and more load to the cable and increasing its tension. This starts to disengage the clutch, leading to clutch slippage. Keep up with adjusting your Mustang's clutch cable to maintain good performance and avoid premature clutch disc wear. Note that this adjustment process is not for changing the pedal position at the point of engagement/disengagement. Please see our Clutch-Pedal Height Adjuster that's designed to make that change correctly.)

 

[skiwesser11]

I still cannot get the cable adjusted where it never grinds slightly on aggressive 2-3 shift so the syncro’s or whatever must be worn.. at any rate I’m still also looking for my most affordable yet durable solution for when the T5 does give out.. and it probably won’t be too long... given the overall cost to swap to a Tremec I wonder you guys opinion of this G force kit if link is still good.... I have the correct case. Thanks!
http://www.jegs.com/p/G-Force-Trans...s-And-Mainshaft-Upgrade-Kits/1343713/10002/-1

 

[skiwesser11]

Drove around a good bit today messing around with it...I guess it bears to mention that I’ve yet to re-check cable on fork end and start over with nut(s) approximately 1/2 way on threaded part there.
Also bears mentioning I believe that it doesn’t matter if I’m shifting aggressively or not, still grinds same when I’m seemingly timing it “just right”... if not at least shifting “quickly” it grinds.... if I make sure to wait a milisec and/or stab clutch good it never grinds... but I’ll never outrun my younger brother’s equally modified 1985 Z28 doing that!!
My best results have come from setting it up according to Maximum Motorsports Page on setting firewall adjuster... a little looser than their “dimes thickness” recommendation seems to put pedal about where Haynes manual advises for “manually adjusted clutch”.. about 2.5-3 in from floor to full clutch engagement....
I burned up a Spec disc once due to stupidity/ignorance and a cable that was a tad to tight... thanks again for reading, you guys help me out a lot and I would really appreciate some input on that G Force kit.. I believe I’m correct that all you need is the correct case and above kit ?

 

[FastDriver]

Why do you think your synchros are ok? Their job is to prevent grinding but you said you almost can't avoid it. My T5s never had that problem. The only times my TKO did were when the synchros were damaged.

Regarding g-force gears, I've never tried them in a T5, but they have a great reputation for strength in the T56 box. And, they've held up to 890 rwhp in mine.

 

[skiwesser11]

Still chasing this problem, haven’t driven it much in last year or so, just enough to keep it running good... to answer above question, I broke the “main” or “counter” shaft (I’m ignorant on which is high without some quick refreshing research) in a clean spot that left car driveable but NO 3rd gear.. I trust the guy that rebuilt it 1000% as he is the FORD MAN in our town and when he installed the new shaft said everything else was fine, it was already grinding a little so I had asked him to double check and he still said he wouldn’t change them, they’re fine.. so I’ve been thinking not enough preload on cable, TO bearing etc.. but still can’t get it smooth.... I reply again now as I recently acquired a 2004 GT and clutch feels heavier than my KCobra clutch in the ‘88, I don’t know if it’s stock but has adjustable cable and aluminum quadrant so maybe not but there’s definitely more “preload” on it so should I tighten the 88’s more?? Could that be it?
I surely don’t want to slip the clutch
jrichker lol?

 

[General karthief]

If you need to 'tag' a member: @jrichker
If it shifts ok into reverse and first gear and clutch engages/releases a few inches from the top and bottom you should be good in the adjustment area.
If the trans grinds in second then you likely have a problem with the trans.

 

[skiwesser11]

I wasn’t trying to tag him lol, he usually has some good input however... basically that’s where I’m at on the cable tension... only grinds going into 3rd, never 2nd... shifts and feels well... again it was apart and a man I have 100% confidence in says synchros were fine.. but it was already grinding before I broke the shaft... the fact that it’s harder than it used to be to get into reverse with engine running makes me think PERHAPS I need more tension but engagement is in the perfect spot of pedal travel..?
If I take slack out (if there is any) on the transmission end of cable, could that possibly help without changing engagement point of pedal travel?
Does that even make sense to anyone else‍.. I really feel like I’ve got something just off enough somewhere with cable tension causing this

 

[jrichker]

I wasn’t trying to tag him lol, he usually has some good input however... basically that’s where I’m at on the cable tension... only grinds going into 3rd, never 2nd... shifts and feels well... again it was apart and a man I have 100% confidence in says synchros were fine.. but it was already grinding before I broke the shaft... the fact that it’s harder than it used to be to get into reverse with engine running makes me think PERHAPS I need more tension but engagement is in the perfect spot of pedal travel..?
If I take slack out (if there is any) on the transmission end of cable, could that possibly help without changing engagement point of pedal travel?
Does that even make sense to anyone else‍.. I really feel like I’ve got something just off enough somewhere with cable tension causing this

Cable tension problems are marked by difficulty in getting the transmission into gear from a full stop into first or reverse. If that is not your problem, the transmission is the culprit.

Clutch Adjustment for stock and aftermarket setups
Revised 28-Apr-2016 to include need for longer cable with single hook quadrant

Clutch adjustment with stock cable and quadrant
There is a self-adjusting mechanism for the clutch cable. As the clutch wears the cable tension changes, that is why there is a self-adjusting mechanism built into the clutch pedal. On the clutch pedal there is a toothed plastic quadrant with a ratchet pawl that engages the quadrant. As you pull up on the clutch pedal, it ratchets and takes any slack out of the clutch cable. Mess around with the pedal or even bump it while the end that fits in the clutch fork is loose, and it tries to take up the slack in the cable. That has the effect of shortening the cable.

Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self-adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

You can use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet pawl off the quadrant teeth. That will allow you to move the quadrant to allow more slack in the cable. If the cable is too loose, pull up on the pedal. The ratchet pawl will allow the quadrant to take up the slack in the cable and lock the adjustment.

The following applies to aftermarket clutch cables and quadrants.
Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable. With a non-adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.

 

[skiwesser11]

Cable tension problems are marked by difficulty in getting the transmission into gear from a full stop into first or reverse. If that is not your problem, the transmission is the culprit.

Clutch Adjustment for stock and aftermarket setups
Revised 28-Apr-2016 to include need for longer cable with single hook quadrant

Clutch adjustment with stock cable and quadrant
There is a self-adjusting mechanism for the clutch cable. As the clutch wears the cable tension changes, that is why there is a self-adjusting mechanism built into the clutch pedal. On the clutch pedal there is a toothed plastic quadrant with a ratchet pawl that engages the quadrant. As you pull up on the clutch pedal, it ratchets and takes any slack out of the clutch cable. Mess around with the pedal or even bump it while the end that fits in the clutch fork is loose, and it tries to take up the slack in the cable. That has the effect of shortening the cable.

Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self-adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

You can use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet pawl off the quadrant teeth. That will allow you to move the quadrant to allow more slack in the cable. If the cable is too loose, pull up on the pedal. The ratchet pawl will allow the quadrant to take up the slack in the cable and lock the adjustment.

The following applies to aftermarket clutch cables and quadrants.
Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable. With a non-adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit
[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.

Thank you sir, that’s pretty much what I’m experiencing, especially next to the 3650 .. I sure wish it’d bolt up to my pushrod engine!

 

[skiwesser11]

@jrichker, would a cable with too much slack at clutch fork, or loose in general, cause a grind only on 2-3 shift only?? It will occasionally grind even when shifting at low rpm in regular driving situations when I’m not “granny shifting”, or waiting until clutch pedal is to floor before engaging 3rd with shifter... it “acts” like synchros but if I’m conscious (slow) about my 2-3 shift it would never grind... like there’s a grinding “sweet spot” if you will... only on 2-3 shift as well if that helps anything... I’m hoping taking slack from trans end of cable tightened it enough to notice a difference... pedal engagement point didn’t change (that I could tell from pulling a little fwd/backwd) but was raining so I’ve not driven it again on road yet... I got fingers crossed and thanks J & everyone else that read my exasperating posts and always so very helpful....
This 2004 GT I recently picked up has an aftermarket cable and quadrant but no firewall adjuster... reading your post above about cable bind led me to discover whoever installed cable has the jam but on engine side of clutch fork and wider nut where it belongs, that clutch feels twice as heavy (tight) as the KC clutch in the 88... hopefully that’s why as mentioned above... I’ll report on both if anyone cares..
thanks again guys!!

 

[skiwesser11]

Ok, I think it must be synchro(s). I took all slack/play out on trans end of cable and adjusted at firewall until clutch disengaged 1” from floor, still occasional grinding on low rpm “quick” 2-3 shift.. then I turned adjuster in (tightening cable right?) until pedal was where I like it.. engagement closer to top of pedal travel.. about 1.5-2” from floor... am I missing something?
I hate to concede that my tranny guy was mistaken.... it is easier to go to reverse with engine running so I guess it’s adjusted better... I was certainly hoping the looseness of cable was grinding culprit.... I’ll power through it until I can get the Astro or G force gear set....
Thanks again to all you guys!

Also, tightness/heavy feel of the cable in the 04 GT wasn’t caused by bolts in wrong places on trans end of cable as it’s still same after re-locating them correctly so I guess whatever clutch prior owner installed has a heck of a pressure plate!!