codes p1516 and p1518 help please!

[kevgad]

I know what the codes say

" P1516 Inlet Manifold Runner Control Input Error (Bank 1) (Ford)
P1518 Inlet Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Ford)"

Also the car lost that kick at 3200 rpm (it used to work and it just stopped exactly when the CIL came on)

what I dont know is how to fix them. I took apart the intake manifold and cleaned out the runners with carb clean, put it back together and it still didnt work.

next step was taking apart the manifold again and this time replaced the IMRC unit (they have a new design from the original sturdy corp one it looks like, but it costs $318). Put that back together and still no kick from 3200 and the check engine light STILL comes on!

What should I do next? I am lost on this project and all the posts I have read says its one or the other and now I have done both.

Please help

Kevin <><

 

[Uncle Meat]

Stupid question here... but you have to start somewhere. Have you cleared the codes out of the ECM with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a while now that you've made the appropriate repairs?

U.M.

 

[mustang_jr+]

Have a pal rev the engine a few times past 3000 rpm and watch the cables.

Do they visibly jump? If so, it's triggering.

If you're hitting the pedal and having it bog, then trigger the code, it's
still not working right and you should check the IMRC unit again,
it sounds crazy but is it getting enough power?

 

[kevgad]

repairs needed

yes, I had the battery disconnected for over 3 hours (while working on the car each time) also have a code reader that can turn them off.

Its not just the light though the power at 3200 is not there anymore so there is a problem somewhere??? I just cant find it

Thanks for the response though, any input is needed, please help me solve this guys my cobra feels like a gt

Kevin <><

Its a 97 btw, forgot to mention that...

 

[kevgad]

repairs

I will do that when i get home from work tonight, my brother can come over and we can check.

The car isnt as fast as it used to be and no kick at all at 3200

Kevin <><

 

[blackfang]

Again, have someone rev the engine past 3250 rpms. There are 2 black cables that run into the back of the intake manifold. at 3250 rpms, those cables should jump/move. If they aren't, the IMRC's are not working.

 

[mustang_jr+]

If it's bogging after 3200 rpm, plain and simple imrc is not opening all the way.

If it's stuck, it should trigger the code but if you clear the codes it might not trigger
on partial opening.

Mine triggered when the IMRC stayed shut. However, when it stuck half way,
it did not give a code. Two cans of seafoam fixed that problem asap.

Things you can also check:
Is MAF sensor clean? Clean it anyway.
Check IAC as well. When was the last time you checked it?

 

[kevgad]

p1518

Ok, those wires are moving around so thats great! I also checked the MAF and IAC, and those are both ok and clean.

Only the p1518 code is coming on and still no power. I am told my 3 shops wiring or new computer...and all 3 said take to dealer. Can anyone think of anything else or experienced this problem? Please help, I am sure it will be over 1000 to take to dealer.

Kevin <><

 

[mustang_jr+]

By no power I assume you mean the car is bogging.

There's two things.

1. The motors can break free from the mounts in the plastic modules.
They will partially open and then just spin around inside.

2. It's stuck partially open due to being dirty.

I would suspect number two.

Turn on the engine and let it sit for a while until it heats up.
This way all the crud will be easier to dissolve. Crucial.

Get a can of seafoam and pull the vac line on the intake
and suck it in. Suck in the first quarter can real slow.
Kill the engine and let it sit 5 mins.

Fire it back up and then suck in half of what is left as fast
as you can and as it stalls kill the engine.

The way the intake is designed, unless you give it a good deal of seafoam
it will completely miss the plate. You really need to saturate the air
with it as it will pretty much become atomized once it gets past the vac line.

Let that sit for ten minutes. Whatever is left should be partially dissolved
and come off easier. Then you can alternate slow feeding and fast feeding.

It took me two cans total to get them free and working again.
Cleared the code and it's been fine since then.

Then what you need to do is get an oil trap for the vac line.
This is all caused by return of oil vapor from the driver side head.

YouTube - Seafoming my 2003 Mustang

-but-

If the modules are dead, you might want to go for the imrc delete.
You'll take a hp loss unless you're using some kind of forced induction,
but it's a ton cheaper than new modules...

 

[Steve491]

Did you check the IMRC fuse?

Edit: forget that question. You said the cables are moving.

 

[kevgad]

p1516 p1518

I took my car last year to Brads custom auto in lake city. They were able to diagnose it as a bad PCM. The code is clear and I was able to pass and emissions and liscense my car. It has been over a year now, but I still do not have that kick over 3200 rpms, the car is ALOT SLOWER. I am wondering if they put in the GT PCM. The orginal equippment PCM from Ford is discontinued, so they bought an aftermarket rebuilt one. Do you think that could be why I do not get that extra power, it use to feel like a turbo charger kicking in, now its smooth, but much slower. It is not bogging.

Hopefully no one else has had this problem, but if they have I guess the PCM is something to check, its located in the pass side kick panel.

Kevin <><

1997 cobra