DIY subframe connectors

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Makdaddymac, Apr 6, 2009.

  1. okay guys this is my next mod.
    i was looking around.and i am personally going to weld them in.
    i like the price of the ebay blue oval ones for 50 plus shipping. but then i realized there has to be a cheaper way. i don't care about the part that bolts to the seats to hold in place to weld. where and what materials can i use to save money. its a straight piece of steel i can do this cheaper for 50.00 right. i know you guys have done this for maybe half that price.:shrug:
  2. make sure your suspension is loaded and not on jack stands.
  3. really? i didnt think that mattered...
    i really just want to know what size and material to use. biggeest most durable and lightest:rolleyes:
  4. Some heavy thick gauge steel is what you want.

    And yeah, your car should be on its wheels when you do it.
  5. 50 bucks is cheap if they are full length, and if you dont have a drive on lift, have someone install them for you. You dont have to follow our advice, but if you dont load the suspension the way it sits on the ground when you install them, they are going to be under stress when you lower the car and the body tries to flex back to its natural state on the ground.

    Sorry I cant answer your question on how to make your own, I really dont know.
  6. The part that bolts to the seat is the seat mount reinforcement, sometimes fox floor pans rip at the seat mount; and it helps the SFCs stiffen the chassis more by giving it a central mounting point. And it also conveniently holds the SFCs up while you weld them in.
  7. The wheels do not have to be on the ground. Just put jack stands at the control arms and on the rear axle so the suspension is loaded....simulating the car sitting on the ground.

    Be sure the car is level also....
  8. i would get a set with the seat bracket...thats ur strenght for not tearing the floorboards apart
  9. My buddy works as a maintenance mechanic electrician for a corrugated box plant...he basically has free access to a bunch of steel and tools. He made his own rectangular ties with a brake press and a jig he made to bend the rectangular tubing to match the contours of the floor pan. They turned out better than you'd believe. Unfortunately there was a change in management and his jig got thrown away. But, you can make them as good as the aftermarket if you have the know-how.
  10. Save yourself the time an headache and just buy the subframes. 50 dallors seems like a steal to me!
  11. yep seems like thats what i'll do.
    blue oval sells the lca and sub's for 230shipped....:rolleyes: i mine as well buy the package to save a few bucks. hey wait i just went from a 50 plus shipping purchase to a 230.00:rolleyes::rolleyes::D:D:rlaugh:
    gotta love the moeny pit I mean 5.0
  12. Mine had some minor "tears" when i had mine installed.Its been almost 4yrs since and have no issues with them.I also had mine done on jackstands like previously stated.
  13. Hey guys, i usually fabricate anything and everything i need for my mustangs... but it was easier just to buy the BLUE OVAL subframe connectors and weld them in... they fit nice and and look nice. And you definitely need to make sure you keep the car level and the rear end under load.
  14. I put Maximum Motorsports full lengths in the 82 I did for a customer while the car was one the lift and had no problem with body flex of anything. The door gaps are fine too. I also welded in a set of Blue ovals on my old 89. The are nice but i will only buy the full lengths. They are really nice and really well designed. I'm just gonna spend the 120 bucks and get the full lengths. And then maybe tie them into the rockers too with some 3/4" square stock.