drivability w/e303

huffy9550

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Aug 14, 2018
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HELP! 95 5.0-installed e303 cam ,new springs, new chain and gears, typhoon intake. car now has radical idle, surges, acts like it just stops running while driving!!!! iv,e installed alot of cams and never had these kind of problems, but this is the first time i've done a EFI car, whats wrong??
 
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Well alot could be wrong..... first off you chose a cam that is NOT EFI friendly, this is not the end of the world however.
Lets start with idle, have you done a base idle reset?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
 
You need a tune, if this were a 87-93 mass air car the ECU could deal with it... The 94-95 ECU strategy is a bit touchier and does not play well with cams without a tune.

there are literally TONS of better cams out there for your application but we were all there before with a letter cam.....
 
Now hang tight for a little bit and see what some other guys chime in with, they may have some insight that could help with the problem that i am not aware of.

Have you tried our no start check list?? a search in the bar up top will bring it up. Very comprehensive go through it step by step
 
This may work better for him
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
94-5 specific info is highlighted,
Did it run good before the cam/intake install? Most times when changing intakes the gasket slips and causes a vacuum leak in the lifter valley, I think there is a intake install thread in the 5.0 tech/how to threads, you can find lots of help in there, the surging idle checklist and the cranks but no start checklist is in there, lots of members contributed to this forum, it's made me look like a genius several times.
 
Every person I know has had to tune their 94-95 with a cam in it . The ecu in those cars just hate anything other then stock . I had a friend while not the best tuning company in the world had American muscle - bama burn him a chip and it fixed his issue .

I’m not sure who else would do a custom remote chip for the car but that is an option .
 
You should be running a cam with a lobe separation of 114* or better. The e cam is 110* and a 94-95 is going to HATE that. I've seen 94-95s with a Comp XE264HR-14 and a Steeda #19 that both drove like stock with no tune. Do all the stuff mentioned here to try to get it to run the best you can, but a E cam is probably never going to have good drivablity in your car.
 
if it were ME, I would put the stock cam back in and install a set of 1.7 rockers. You are going to spend a few hundred bucks on a tune to try and make a poor cam work. Please tell me you don't have stock heads, throttle body, exhaust, MAF., rear end gears.
 
Stock heads,BBK 70mm throttle boby, 120gal fuel pump, BBK cold air, stock MAF pypes h pipe no cats,flowmaster h pipe back. typhoon intake, 410 gears, ran great before the cam change. I've had the car since 1997, only has 68000 miles. I had American Muscle make a bama chip I can tell a slight difference with the chip but still runs like crap.smells really rich. Like i said i've not worked on an efi car before, I was a Ford dealer master tech back in the day. all set out to do was to get it into the 14's at the local drag strip. wish id never touched it!!!!
 
Not the best cam for a 94-95 ECC idle. These cars need a cam with a lobe of 113+ and it like split duration not same / same.

Like mentioned you'll have to go through the steps of the Surging Idle Checklist. Too many factors to choose from so we'd be just guessing.
 
Do you guys think if i get rid of the e303 it would cure these problems?

Asked and answered:

if it were ME, I would put the stock cam back in and install a set of 1.7 rockers. You are going to spend a few hundred bucks on a tune to try and make a poor cam work. Please tell me you don't have stock heads, throttle body, exhaust, MAF., rear end gears.

Stock heads,BBK 70mm throttle boby, 120gal fuel pump, BBK cold air, stock MAF pypes h pipe no cats,flowmaster h pipe back. typhoon intake, 410 gears, ran great before the cam change.


There is no planet in which this combo is going to make more power than with the stock cam. With those heads, you have effectively reduced your bottom end grunt and then failed to provide enough air to make use of the top. You now have an un-happy EEC as the cherry on the top.

I would also put it back to stock and then plan my next move more carefully.

Let's break this down:


Stock heads - Arguably the most restrictive piece from the factory
BBK 70mm throttle boby - Dammit boby, you worsened throttle body resolution but still aren't pulling anymore air because of the heads
120gal fuel pump - Um... what?
BBK cold air - Gimmick. Adds exactly ZERO HP
stock MAF - but a 70mm throttle body :chin
pypes h pipe no cats - Zero HP and probably lost some torque due to mish-mash of parts in a tuned exhaust system
flowmaster h pipe back - Zero HP
typhoon intake - Way too big. Minus HP
410 gears - And no top end HP to make use of it

ran great before the cam change - Your mods are slowly killing performance. I would bet you money that you make less power now than it did when it was new... Less than a factory car.

You need a really good plan that includes a package of components that are designed to work together.
 
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In my opinion a mail tune is going to be ok at best. If it were me in this situation I would just bite the bullet and swap the cam back, upgrade the maf and practice my launches with drag radials to chase those 14s