E cam

[Marlboro_Man]

Question is do you need roller rockers or hardend pushrod and lifters to run an Ecam? What else is needed?

I ask because i'm looking at buying an 87 gt that sopposedly has an Ecam in it along with some other goodies. But the guy said he didn't think it had roller rockers in it (It's his sons car).

 

[RYC CUKR]

you do not need roller rockers to run an e cam. I believe that you only HAVE to have hardened pushrods if you are running stud mount rockers but I am not 100% positive on that, I am sure someone else can give you a definite answer. And the stock style roller lifters will work fine. Lots of guys reuse their stock lifters when swapping cams.

 

[1988WHTGT]

I know you need hardened pushrods if you've got guideplates

 

[Autobodypro_1]

E-cam

Roller rockers should be used to get the most out of the cam. Hardened pushrods are required only if you are using guide plates or early 289 heads. You may need the idle adjustment plate to get a decent idle. 1987's had speed density FI and I have been told they don't tolerate hipo cams and you have to convert to Mass air. E-cam cars usually have idling problems anyway...mine idles ok at 900 rpm, but not perfect....I may yank mine out and change to something else

 

[95COBRA241]

If it's already installed in the car then the owner probably just re-used the stock valvetrain which is fine depending on mileage. As stated above to get the best power from the cam plus less friction, noise...replace the stock stamped steel rockers with 1.6 rollers from the company of your choice. 1.7 might cause too much lift for the piston & valve. If budget is o.k. you coud replace the lifters too for and additional $120.00 (from summit). The pushrods should be fine.

 

[thumper460]

ALL you NEED is the cam/ stock push rods/ Stock rockers/ and springs to carry the cam profile... cool?? Like the cam.. and springs.. that IS all!!

just me.......................

Thumper

 

[Foxfan88]

ecam is pretty mild so it could be directly swapped out and have no problems right???

 

[thumper460]

ALL ways change the stock valve spring and those rotater retainers.. and you will be happier with the cam and the engine performance... cool??

Just me...........................

Thumper

 

[Marlboro_Man]

Thanks for the replies guys!

After looking the car over using the checklist i found on here and then driving it i put $500 down on it and the guy is holding it for me for 30 days. (I should have all the money by this coming weekend). I'ts in pretyy good shape.


Manuel transmission, 4 lug cobra rims, nitto 555's out back, BBK shorty headers and x pipe,flowmasters, MAF conversion, racing seats, new pads and rotors, upgraded clutch,welded sfc's, traction bars, electric fans,underdrive pullies, 2in cowl hood, alluminum radiator(thick),MSD ignition,FPR, guages,"blue injectors", Lots of new parts, Good idle (no surging). And more that i just can't think of right now.

oh newish black paint job. All for $4k.

Seems like a good platform to start on . and tonight i met a guy at a meet that has some dart 2 heads p+p for 900

 

[Killer50stang]

Question is do you need roller rockers or hardend pushrod and lifters to run an Ecam? What else is needed?

I ask because i'm looking at buying an 87 gt that sopposedly has an Ecam in it along with some other goodies. But the guy said he didn't think it had roller rockers in it (It's his sons car).

You can run this cam on a stock motor and springs. If it has high mileage, you might want to get a good set of springs. Good luck!

 

[Michael Yount]

On a stock motor -- it's usually a terrible choice though. It pretty effectively KILLS the bottom end and midrange, and with stock springs, you'll likely hit valve float BEFORE you get to an rpm level where it's likely to make more HP than the stock cam.

 

[Killer50stang]

On a stock motor -- it's usually a terrible choice though. It pretty effectively KILLS the bottom end and midrange, and with stock springs, you'll likely hit valve float BEFORE you get to an rpm level where it's likely to make more HP than the stock cam.

Can't agree on this one. I've ran this cam on TWO stock engines and never had a problem with anything. Of course they had low mileage, as stated above, change the springs on a higher mileage motor and you'll be fine. As for performance, my boosted from my cam, didn't kill anything off for me. Did this happen to you or do you believe everything you hear?

 

[Michael Yount]

Sold my E long ago (it was a happy day) and went custom -- you're simply in the minority Killer50Stang; MANY posters over the years complained of the downsides of running E and B cams in stockers - especially efi's. One of my favorite lines in the sig of a previous poster -- "Best Mod - taking the E cam out of my stock engine and putting the stock cam back in".

 

[1990LXDropTop]

On a stock motor -- it's usually a terrible choice though. It pretty effectively KILLS the bottom end and midrange, and with stock springs, you'll likely hit valve float BEFORE you get to an rpm level where it's likely to make more HP than the stock cam.

Agreed. I installed my e-cam with a set of Edelbrock heads/intake. I did feel a huge hp increase PASSED 3000rpm. However, below 3000rpm it felt like my motor had more low-end when it had stock h/i/c.

 

[Ourobos]

I run the E303 in a fairly stock setup, and think it's much better than the stock one.. The idle definately sounds better too..

 

[thumper460]

Lost bottom end with the E or B cam... spend $$ to buy a new cam.. or advance the E or B and have the power BACK thru ALL rpm ranges.. tune what you have is always better than putting MORE money out!!But then that is

Just me............................

Thumper

 

[Paul Perreca]

i didn't think JUST adding a cam would really do a whole lot for performance.... i thought it was a combonation of things

 

[Paul Perreca]

Agreed. I installed my e-cam with a set of Edelbrock heads/intake. I did feel a huge hp increase PASSED 3000rpm. However, below 3000rpm it felt like my motor had more low-end when it had stock h/i/c.

I hope that's not the case w/ me, i think that really sucks... lol i wanna have same or better power down low, and way better power up top lol damnit u just ruined tonights sleep

 

[Michael Yount]

Even with the E or B cam advanced, you're likely still QUITE a bit softer on the bottom with an all stock set up. We gained 70-80 ft-lbs. (not a typo) down low (below 3000) when we removed the E and put a custom in mine (Y heads, Explorer intake, t/b, maf, shorties, etc); we lost about 10HP at peak -- a trade off I was happy to make in my street car.

Each set up is unique -- but the stock components and the E or B is FAR from optimum. On a stock set up you'd get MUCH more bang for the buck by having the lower intake ported, and putting an off-road H-pipe on than you ever would from just replacing the camshaft with one of those 2.

 

[thumper460]

Mike IS right on the air flow!! being the BEST first mods!! However ..YES on the stock cam vs a performance cam, and the low end!! However.. doing the cam first is OK if you are willing to lose a little of the TOTAL performance Gain from the cam!! By advancing the FMS E and installing is at a as much as 104 ICL( 6* advanced) and the FMS B cam in as much as 103 ICL (4* advanced) the engines and cars went faster and built RPMs faster, and pulled power thru the entire rpm range!! We have even installed a E cam in as much as 102 ICL for a stock AOD car.. and the driver loved the low end tire burning power .. all the way to 5800 rpm!!
SOOOOoo... the cam is in!! now tune it to work for you application!! The CAM IS the brain to ALL the other functions in that engine!! ( Mechanicly) with big heads.. big intake.. big T/b ... it will take the right Camshaft to get the most from the stuff you bolted on ( along with computer mods)... thus the high price for "custom Camshafts!!" It isnt the cost to make... It is all the R&D involved to get the best performance for the application!! I would be willing to bet that the guys that dissed the E or B cams didnt try different cam phasing!! Mike I know you will say I push advancing camshafts.. actually I push using what you have and degreeing the cam is JUST another tool, and with the F/I cars and the HO 5.0s with mild mods/ na .. it works and saved a lot of guys money!! ( "Best Mod - taking the E cam out of my stock engine and putting the stock cam back in".)

"
Advancing the Cam !!
ya i first had it installed straight up first. But then pulled it all apart and put to 4degrees advance....WOW a world of a differance. all my stang buddys pulled theres apart to and did the same.
the car is completely debadged no stickers no nothing but the rummber of one chambers.
thanks again.
~Andy~
12.69 @ 105 mph
Ported E7s
FMS B cam +4 advanced
high 11's on 100 shot

Sorry for the long post!!

Paul.. if you havent done it yet.. run the car!! Then pull the front off and bump that up 4* and see the world of differance!! then get back to us and let us know the differance... those 'Brocks will love it!!

just me............................

Thumper