Finishing up the motor, need a few questions answered first please...

[Busted07]

What i have:

1991 302 roller motor
Bored & Honed to 306ci
balanced to 50oz (i know, i know, 28oz is better)
converted from EFI to Carb (dont get me started)
Eagle crank
Eagle Rods
new stock oil pan
melling standard volume oil pump
FRPP Balancer
TFS 10:1 forged pistons
TFS TrackHeat Heads
TFS Chromoly pushrods
Scorpion 1.6 Rockers
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
Holley 650 & 750 carbs - no, not at the same time
BBK shorties
O/R H
dynomax race bullets
MSD Billet Distributor
MSD 6AL
MSD Blaster SS coil
Accell 300+ Race Wires
Super King Cobra Clutch
Rebuilt T-5 with Hanlong block & ring kit
Stock 3.08 rear gears (for now)

i think that about covers what i have... now for my questions...

1. What would be the best choice in spark plugs for my setup?
2. I want a good alternator, but dont know if i can do the 3G since i converted to carb, any suggestions?
3. Should i go with a parts house starter since it has a warranty?
4. what should i set my timing to?
5. how long do i need to break this thing in for?
6. after its broke in, what should my shift limit RPMs be?

Thats all the questions i have for right now... any help or input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[seijirou]

I would start with the standard 25's personally, but don't worry about it too much during breakin unless they're really giving you problems. You can't really read spark plugs unless you're WOT anyway, and short of getting the rings to seat you're probably not looking to beat on your motor too hard right now anyway.

I don't see what going carb has to do with what alt you run?? I say go with the 3g.. but maybe I'm missing something here?

Nothing wrong with a parts house starter IMO, I think the 93 uses the smaller one that's easier to install? Maybe have them pull both so you can have a look-see.

I would run 8 degrees of timing, just the bottom side of stock, again, no need to worry about "power" timing right now.

I like to break in engines for atleast 500 miles, I'm always a bit nervous though so I usually change the oil after 20 minutes, then at 100 miles, at 200 miles, and every 200 miles untill 1,000 while just driving like a normal person, at which point i consider it broken in.

I think your redline is going to be determined by your valvetrain (which is usually the case anyway). I don't see any info about lifters, springs, keepers, valves, camshaft, etc. etc. Basically you don't want to float those things and you don't want to launch the valves too far off the lobes or they're gonna bounce viciously and destroy themselves.

so.... keep it under 7k??

 

[Busted07]

Sorry about leaving that info out... i got the TFS stage II camshaft, FRPP lifters, and the Trackheat heads have the upgraded springs, and better valve guides if im not mistaken

 

[seijirou]

I thought the heads had decent springs and guides, but are they still single wound springs?
I'm sure someone on here is more of an engine builder than I am, but without solid lifters, really nifty springs, and lightweight keepers/valves my guts say you're limit's probably going to be between 6.5 and 7k.
Getting her on the Dyno is really the way to tell though IMO. Ideas about this and that aren't a bad thing, but the dyno removes all doubt by showing you exactly where your valvetrain starts to get wonky.

 

[88 Fox GT]

I thought the heads had decent springs and guides, but are they still single wound springs?
I'm sure someone on here is more of an engine builder than I am, but without solid lifters, really nifty springs, and lightweight keepers/valves my guts say you're limit's probably going to be between 6.5 and 7k.
Getting her on the Dyno is really the way to tell though IMO. Ideas about this and that aren't a bad thing, but the dyno removes all doubt by showing you exactly where your valvetrain starts to get wonky.

I agree. I doubt you'll be able rev it past 7k unless you have a better valvetrain setup.

 

[rustang87]

Autolite 3924's