Brakes First Test Drive Did Not Go So Well, Having Some Issues.

Venom351R

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Apr 27, 2002
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Got the rear caliper on, bled the system and did all the other last min things that needed to be done. Took it out for a drive but the brakes are still messed up. The pedal is very stiff and when I press down on it it barley wants to stop. Also the temp went up to about 230. It never usually gets hot at all. I did not take it out of first gear I just took it out on the dirt road I live on but in the short distance I went the temp shot right up. I got it back home and put it in the garage until I can figure out what's causing these issues. The thermostat is new and there is plenty of coolant in it. I do know that some of these thermostats are bad out of the package but what other issues could be causing it and what about the brakes being stiff and not wanting to stop all that well?
 
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I forget to burp the cooling system so I know thats why its over heating. I'll do it tonight when I get home. Was in such a hurry to drive it I forgot all about it.

I did not check the VAC to the booster, how do I do that?

Oh and to add insult to injury I did not need a rear caliper. There is small washer/fitting that goes with the banjo bolt. Thats why it was leaking. Well anyway it has new rebuilt caliper on the rear passenger side.
 
Check the vac to the booster by looking at the line. Disconencted with the engine running, it should be a HUGE vac leak. Connected, it should not.

If the brake pedal feels the same with the vac line connected and engine running, as it does with the engine off, then I'd say your boster is bad.
 
your right it doesn't. That washer that goes with the banjo bolt was missing so it was leaking. A new one came with the caliper I got so I used that and it stoped leaking. There was more light in the garage this morn then when I had this first happen so I could actually see the fluild coming from the banjo fitting.


also would not bleeding the brakes good enough give me symptoms of the stiff pedal and not wanting to stop? I bled each one until it was just fluid coming through and no bubbles and started at the right rear, then left rear then right front then left front.
 
ok that rules out having to bleed the brakes again. I'll check the line tonight to make sure its not loose or cracked.

Would it be common for the booster to go bad after sitting for over a year? Last time I drove the car in sept of 201o it had no brake issues. Now I have these symptoms.
 
fixed the cooling system after burping it. Stays between 200-210 now. Checked the line going from the booster to the Tree and it is fine, no cuts or cracks. So what are my other options, is a stuck caliper possible or is it pointing more towards the booster? I took the line off while it was running and the hard pedal pressure was the same with it connected or disconnected. This is how it looks let me know if anything seems amiss.

6b6edafd.jpg
 
Dude... there's no line running from the intake to the tree (should be that big one on the bottom) so NONE of the stuff on the tree is getting vacuum!

I bet you only get heater air out of the dash too. :D
 
oh I know what I did. That line is now connected to the valve cover for the PCV.
cc2f7053.jpg



so now I have no line to go to the tree. So what should I do? Should I get a T fitting for the back of the intake so that I can have a connection for the PCV valve and one for the tree?
 
No... the line going to the tree should go to the intake and nothing else. The booster takes a pretty good amount of volume. The line to the PCV should go to the tree that's under the intake (upper plenum).
 
I have 3 ports in the back of my intake for the brass fittings. 1 Big one for the vac line to the tree and 2 smaller one. One of them goes to the FPR and the other one is capped off. If I get another small brass fitting like the FPR connects to and use the upper tree on the PCV valve (smaller one) can I connect that to the open fitting that is not being used and just run a longer line from the intake to tree for the vac (b/c now it is to short b/c it was cut)
 
If it's coming directly off the intake, then that should work great. Both the PCV and the port running to the tree linking the brake booster, pull the largest air volumes. If they're coming right from the intake then you have the best chance of avoiding weirdness with the vac system.
 
The reason the pedal is so hard is because the booster isn't getting enough vacuum. Noobz is correct, you seem to be missing a line that makes lots of vacuum for the booster which is exactly why the pedal is hard. I should know because after I got my 347 running I took it down the street after I bled the brakes and the pedal was so hard I couldn't stop. Come to find out that big hose (your picture above) was burned by my long tube headers, my vacuum line was long and I tucked it under to hide.