I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....
Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues
- Thread starter red5.0fox
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Big time sucks. But in other crappy news, I purchased these because I couldn’t get the OEM ones to work. Well I don’t remember what was wrong with those ones, but they seem to fit fine now.. what the heck?
got one head fully reassembled. Oddly enough, one of the rocker bolts was about an inch longer than the rest.. not sure why that is, and I’m beginning to worry about what the previous owner was doing. I’m going to hit the autostore and fastenal monday to get the seals and that bolt. I thought about reusing it but I’m not sure if I want to.
Also got the oil pan dropped down so now I just have to get that old gasket out of there and get the new one in. Any tips on ensuring it doesn’t leak? I’m also worried about getting old gasket material into the pan since I didn’t completely remove it.
Also got the oil pan dropped down so now I just have to get that old gasket out of there and get the new one in. Any tips on ensuring it doesn’t leak? I’m also worried about getting old gasket material into the pan since I didn’t completely remove it.
Progress has been made! Heads and rockers are reinstalled, all set to proper preload. Timing cover, waterpump, balancer, radiator, and the power steering pump are also reinstalled.
I was rebuilding the injectors since as everyone knows, I wasn’t sure what the issue with the car was. Well, removing the injector filters absolutely destroyed my injectors. Oh well I guess, that’s an expensive lesson..
Now that I’m here, should I once again get 24lb injectors, or go 19lb? Car has an unidentified aftermarket cam (pretty sure), stock fuel pump, GT40 Heads, Explorer Intake, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 65mm throttle body and spacer, 24lb MAF, and a SVE air intake.
I was rebuilding the injectors since as everyone knows, I wasn’t sure what the issue with the car was. Well, removing the injector filters absolutely destroyed my injectors. Oh well I guess, that’s an expensive lesson..
Now that I’m here, should I once again get 24lb injectors, or go 19lb? Car has an unidentified aftermarket cam (pretty sure), stock fuel pump, GT40 Heads, Explorer Intake, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 65mm throttle body and spacer, 24lb MAF, and a SVE air intake.
If the MAF is calibrated for 24's then just go back with them. Get some Ford Racing EV1 24's as they tend to be more reliable. If there is someone close by that can clean and flow the injectors they typically install new filters, o-rings, and pintle caps as part of the service.
I beat them up pretty bad removing the old filters. I didn’t realize until the third injector, there’s a brass fitting that should be coming out with the filter. I installed new filters without actually removing that brass ring. There’s also a little plastic ring on the fuel rail side of the injector that I crimped in a little bit trying to remove a filter. Not sure they’re fixable at this point.. at the very least I’d need to buy a new kit, but I’m scared to use these now whatever the advice is though I’ll follow it, whether I just get a new kit and try again, or buy brand new ones. If I buy new ones it’s going on a credit card lol. I’ll link a picture in a couple minutes of the damage I did.
I would find a shop that can flow and clean injectors and send them that picture to see if they can do the work. If not then price a set of used injectors plus them cleaning them vs. new.
Injectors are fixed! My shop instructor had the right tool and spare filters for the job. Hopefully they all work properly and seal well.
In other news, I may be dormant for a while. We are in transmission class so I actually went ahead and got a clutch to do that, and while draining the fluid on my 3 year old tremec T5 from LMR with probably 30k miles on it (no track time) the fluid was so metallic it looked like paint. Explains the 5th gear grind I started receiving not long ago, aswell as issues with getting stuck in reverse. I believe the warranty only lasted a year. We go into spring break next week, so I won’t see the car for a bit. Guess I’m rebuilding the trans let’s just hope it runs decent after this is all done.
I will continue to update this forum as progress continues when we return to class. Thanks everyone for the help!
In other news, I may be dormant for a while. We are in transmission class so I actually went ahead and got a clutch to do that, and while draining the fluid on my 3 year old tremec T5 from LMR with probably 30k miles on it (no track time) the fluid was so metallic it looked like paint. Explains the 5th gear grind I started receiving not long ago, aswell as issues with getting stuck in reverse. I believe the warranty only lasted a year. We go into spring break next week, so I won’t see the car for a bit. Guess I’m rebuilding the trans let’s just hope it runs decent after this is all done.
I will continue to update this forum as progress continues when we return to class. Thanks everyone for the help!
Attachments
Spring break is over, and we have returned to the shop! Pulled the trans apart and oh man, it was a mess. Not horrible all things considered.. however, where can I find a new 5th gear? Internet wasn’t much help as I don’t really wanna shop on eBay. Any advice? My ratio is a .63. Already have a new fork ready to go.
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I’ll be restarting on the engine likely tomorrow, so hopefully I can have it all back together soon. Just gotta get the transmission fixed and reinstalled. Everything looked good besides the damage in the photos.
Astro Transmission Parts
601 E Alfred St
Tavares, FL 32778
(352) 343-0956
It would be wise to remove the gear and get the part number off of it so they can make sure to get you the exact one to replace it.
601 E Alfred St
Tavares, FL 32778
(352) 343-0956
It would be wise to remove the gear and get the part number off of it so they can make sure to get you the exact one to replace it.
Alrighty. Fired it up today, and it idled well. The vacuum leak I have referenced coming from the lower intake is still there though.. might just need a new intake, or the heads were machined prior to me getting ahold of this engine. It idled really well, and fired up right away, so I must have fixed the timing because usually it takes way more effort. I didn’t test much though because we have to pull the transmission back out as it won’t shift into reverse. Feels like there isn’t even a reverse gear present, but we’ll figure that out tomorrow. Valve covers are not sealing right either and I think that’s because the studs I installed aren’t meant for aluminum valve covers, so I’m picking up some new ones this weekend to fix that. I’ll keep everyone posted on how it goes once we get the transmission out.
Yes, I have a BBK 70mm. I don’t think it’s coming from there but I can’t be sure.. I don’t really hear it when I put my ear to the throttle body, it sounds more like the very front left side of the lower intake, but that is the same side as the throttle body, so maybe it’s nothing.
Alrighty, I’ve driven the car for a bit and here’s where I’m at. The car idles much better with the MAF plugged in, or unplugged. It’s down on power, but that’s likely because I haven’t properly timed the car yet, I just did it by ear. I’m leaking oil out of the valve covers a bit but that’s likely due to my aluminum valve covers not cooperating with the new studs I installed. New valve covers are coming this weekend. I also haven’t gotten the hpipe to properly seat with the headers yet, so there’s a huge exhaust leak.
I’m beginning to become very stumped on what is causing this running issue, and I believe we can eliminate timing as I ensured that the engine was on TDC by looking at the rocker arms as I was setting it. I also got the rocker arms tightened to spec aswell.
I’m starting to wonder, if this vacuum leak is just the TB, could it be the PCM going out? That, or maybe it does need a tune. Should I look into getting a chip? (I can’t afford a standalone system).
As I said, the idle is pretty good, but it will idle up to 1k, settle down to 600, then after a little bit, idle back up to 1k and repeat. Maybe I need to really take my time going through the idle checklist?
I’m beginning to become very stumped on what is causing this running issue, and I believe we can eliminate timing as I ensured that the engine was on TDC by looking at the rocker arms as I was setting it. I also got the rocker arms tightened to spec aswell.
I’m starting to wonder, if this vacuum leak is just the TB, could it be the PCM going out? That, or maybe it does need a tune. Should I look into getting a chip? (I can’t afford a standalone system).
As I said, the idle is pretty good, but it will idle up to 1k, settle down to 600, then after a little bit, idle back up to 1k and repeat. Maybe I need to really take my time going through the idle checklist?
I’m also wondering if maybe it’s O2 sensors. I replaced them in 2020ish, when we all got Covid checks, but the connections are soaked in oil from previous leaks. Maybe they’re giving off faulty readings? There’s no code going off for them though.
Is the exhaust leak before or after the 02s?
You need to set timing.
Any codes at all?
Take a vacuum reading and monitor as you drive.
Yes, go back over the checklist, you need to be methodical. Do each step one at a time in order.
You need to set timing.
Any codes at all?
Take a vacuum reading and monitor as you drive.
Yes, go back over the checklist, you need to be methodical. Do each step one at a time in order.
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