Getting Pissed Off

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by David Pepiton, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. so yesterday on my way home from a baby shower (for my wife and I) my oil pressure hit 0psi. so here I sit engine lifted pan held on by one bolt starter bolts stripped. what I PITA. since I'm here I'm gunna change the motor mounts trans mount and redo all of my exhaust heck if I waned to do the exhaust it may have only taken me 1 hour to get everything out and about the same back in. this is a bad design for the oil pan wtf was ford thinkin. they obviously weren't thinkin this really makes me want a tubular k mamber to make this easier.
  2. Congrats on the baby. Sorry to hear about your other baby though. You know it's like how car companies always route the wires this way or that way. There's never enough extra wire to work on. Especially solder, never mind crimping. Just to save a few bucks on wire. I haven't look into tubular k members. I have seen some that look nice but I don't know about it. The ones that move the wheel placement forward, seems good but all the bodywork you'd have to do as well.
  3. yeah the first fox I owned was a dedicated drag car and the pump was so easy to change. I also had access to everything I needed at that point too. I've got one bolt on the drivers side left to get out then I should be able to get it out but we had a DRs appointment today followed by a class at the hospital.
  4. It sucks, but it was an evolutionary thing. In the old days, the engine always sat forward of the steering rack. There was one big sump in the front, and no sump in the back, so you could pull the oil pan quickly. Then they moved the engine back in certain cars and had to add the second sump. It's just the way it ended up.

  5. im going out on a limb and thinking i found the issue.


    look how high i got this sucker:


    BBK headers going in with the refresh:

    85rkyboby likes this.
  6. Motorsport sells a hardened oil pump shaft. I gather your oil pump seized.

  7. Yeah, and a piece of debris must have gotten wedged between the oil pump gears for the shaft to twist like a corkscrew.
  8. yeah pump was locked up
  9. That sucks. Fortunately the pump is only like $20. Still a huge pain in the ass.

  10. Make sure you find out what got into the pump, there might be more of it waiting to strike again.
  11. FYI, a hardened pump shaft won't help anything when the pump eats crud and locks up. What it probably will do is break anyway and split the distributor shaft. Been there and done that years ago: I had a 289 that kept pulling pieces of 1960s-era umbrella seal through a faulty pump pickup screen.

    Ford was thinking that it was faster, easier, and cheaper on the assembly line to put the engine on the k-member first and drop the chassis down over it. That's why so many 6.0L Powerstroke F-250s have to have the cab lifted off just to do top end work. Now that's crazy.
  12. yeah i got quite a bit of crap out of the pan.

    so its all back together and yet it just cranks and cranks. its getting fuel and seems to be getting good spark. idk man im calling it quits for today. and will hit it tomorrow.

    side not just on cranking the engine i have good pressure.
  13. It is actually faster to drop the K-member out of the way to get the oil pan on and off. Support the engine from on top, remove 8 k-member bolts, unbolt steering shaft from rack, remove 2 engine mount nuts, unbolt spindles from struts and position calipers out of the way. Doing it this way, I have changed the engine oil pan on a Fox Body 5.0 in under 4 hrs start to finish.
  14. holy crap that's quick. I also spent a crap load of time cleaning. who ever had the car before me engorged a bunch of issues.
  15. can I set ignition timing without getting the engine warmed up? since I can't get it to start I can't get it warm. do I still remove the spout connector?
  16. I think I'm gunna turn the crank until the timing mark is on 10* and set the distributor to 1 and go from there.
  17. If you do it right, you will be within 1* + or - of 10* BTDC doing it that way. I have made a fair amount of $ off of people who did not believe I could stab a distributor with that kind of accuracy.
  18. I've always set my timing right on start up. I've never waited for it to warm up. If you need to throttle it up a little to keep it running, then do it. With out the spout in, it makes no difference.

  19. it won't even fire up so since my noid lights were stolen Im picking up a new set along with a new spark plug test light.
  20. so after passing both another spark and noid test I got a backfire which lead me to poke around the fire wall to see if any wires may have been pinched when lifting the motor and while I didn't find and pinched wires I did find that the Map sensor was not connected and that the B/R on the vacuum tree was no longer capped.

    does anyone know where i pull vacuum for the map sensor? or have a diagram I've searched and the only picture I've seen is a computer drawn diagram just has a red line from the map sensor to basically nothing which a assume must be the IM but i dont see where to connect the stupid thing.


    im curious if i can pull vacuum from the B/R for the map sensor also i will be capping the A/C and S/C lines on the vac tree since I don't have or use either and will reduce the likely hood of a vacuum leak.
    #20 David Pepiton, Oct 18, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013