GO DSS OR REBUILD

sccplr09

New Member
Nov 8, 2004
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so i have a 2000 mustang gt and in high school i beat the **** out of it and didnt take care of it. later on down the road i had a rod knock and finally the motor froze up. should i just get a longblock from dss or rebuild what i have.

Motor was stock, but i want heads and cams, thats about it for right now... i just want a sick sounding mustang.....

what should i do???????
 
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If your going to put money into rebuilding your engine you might aswell get better stronger parts for it. Also it would most likely be cheaper to buy a built shortblock than have some on rebuild your stock one.

I went with VT Engines and I love mine
 
so i have a 2000 mustang gt and in high school i beat the **** out of it and didnt take care of it. later on down the road i had a rod knock and finally the motor froze up. should i just get a longblock from dss or rebuild what i have.

Motor was stock, but i want heads and cams, thats about it for right now... i just want a sick sounding mustang.....

what should i do???????

Buy a beater car until you learn to take car of the stang:nono:
 
try and get the best forged pieces for your money is my best advice.. most of the short blocks the major companies offer have a Cobra crank, Manley rods and Mahle pistons. I had mine built locally with CP pistons, Kellogg crank and modmax rods for the same money as the mail order blocks. the Kellogg crank is 4340 and stronger than the Cobra 4140 crank.
 
I had mine built locally with CP pistons, Kellogg crank and modmax rods for the same money as the mail order blocks. the Kellogg crank is 4340 and stronger than the Cobra 4140 crank.

Yeah, but unless you're really spinning the rotating assembly and/or making over 600hp, the use of a forged crank really isn't necessary anyway.

I went with a set of Diamond Pistons, Manley H-Beam rods and the stock crank in mine and it handles boost just fine. :nice:
 
:Word: Not taking care of your Mustang AND beating on it is uncalled for. I wonder what Kilgore has to say about this..
Well, all I can really say is that when I was in HS I did some real stupid stuff. Too embarassing to even post :(

But yeah, try not to blow your next engine... :nice:

Sorry I really do not know enough to give any advice to the thread topic...
 
Yeah, but unless you're really spinning the rotating assembly and/or making over 600hp, the use of a forged crank really isn't necessary anyway.

I went with a set of Diamond Pistons, Manley H-Beam rods and the stock crank in mine and it handles boost just fine. :nice:

well I plan to shift at 6500rpms at the track but didn't want to cheese out on any area of the block... the car will make well into the 500's rwhp as well with plans to replace my current blower with an F1A in a year or 2 funds permitting and shoot for well into the 600 range. I paid 3500 for the complete block and that included using a brand new Ford block so pricewise you can't go wrong since its right there with the other companies and actually has a better crank then most of them offer at that price.
 
What's your RWHP ? TORQUE ? Why only 10# with forged block ?

As Ive posted in other threads the car has always made LOW numbers to say the least, 355/cant remember tq all through automatic and lower compression pistons. The fact is though I run low 12s @ around 115 mph.

As for the low boost I didn't have the money to up the boost due to having to upgrade the fuel system and needing 8 rib kit due to belt slip. BUT I just had an 8 rib GI Joe kit w/ 2.75 pulley, cobra tank and pumps put on and Ill be installing JBA midlength headers this Monday and getting the car retuned Wednesday!