Hanging Idle! Anutha One! (dj Khaled Voice)

[fredfifty]

lol

So I have a little hanging idle. after reaching operating temp (180), when I go to gas it up to 3k and let it drop, it will slowly go down to idle (steady 900~)...I would say it takes about 9-10 sec to get to idle, then it holds no problem. But I just cant seem to shake that hang!

I have already installed a brand new Motorcraft IAC/EGR Valve/EGR VPS/TAB/TAD Solenoids/EGR Vacuum Solenoid Regulator/TPS(@.98), New Accufab 70mm TB, New 75mm Pro-M MAF (CAI) 24# w/24# Injectors (obviously), New BBK CAI Fenderwell, New Screamin Demon Ignition Coil, Livewires, New MSD Cap/Rotor, New Motorcraft Plugs, etc...Also, I adjusted the idle screw stop (by unplugging IAC then adjusting the idle screw to set RPMs, then the TPS set, then disconnected the Negative battery terminal for 20 minutes, purged any volts by pressing brakes, headlights, etc, plugged in IAC, then connected the negative terminal...which I believe is the right way according to Ford Racing).

Car has E-Cam by the way and oil is 10w30 Advanced Full Synthetic Mobil1. Any more info that is needed, let me know. I would really like the smooth idle throughout the RPM range.

Thanks for any help guys!

 

[jrichker]

You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. It includes how to dump the computer codes quickly and simply as one of the first steps. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.

It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 250,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.

 

[Dan02gt]

It is correct that you have a stock intake and stock heads with a E cam?

If that's the case you really don't need the 24 lbs injectors or the 70mm TB.

Also the E cam is known to have serious driveablity issues and poor idle.

If it were my car I would lose the E cam for one of 5 of or so cams that would be way better for your current setup. Including the stock cam. While reinstalling the intake from the cam swap check all vacuum lines to make sure that they are properly connected and not leaking.

 

[fredfifty]

It is correct that you have a stock intake and stock heads with a E cam?

If that's the case you really don't need the 24 lbs injectors or the 70mm TB.

Also the E cam is known to have serious driveablity issues and poor idle.

If it were my car I would lose the E cam for one of 5 of or so cams that would be way better for your current setup. Including the stock cam. While reinstalling the intake from the cam swap check all vacuum lines to make sure that they are properly connected and not leaking.

93 cobra upper lower, gt40 y's....i was thinking of going with a different cam

 

[a91what]

Stick or auto? I'm asking because the idle strategy is different for each

 

[fredfifty]

Stick or auto? I'm asking because the idle strategy is different for each

5 spd

 

[a91what]

Do you know if the nss on the trans works? The idle will change when you clutch in/out. The slow drop in idle speed is to combat stalling, it is exaggerated by the cam/high idle speed. My e cammed engine acted the same.

 

[fredfifty]

The NSS isnt plugged in at all, its just dangling. I am able to start the car without depressing the clutch, in gear or not.

 

[a91what]

That's a problem and why it is doing what it does. Fix the nss circuit and remove the jumper you or someone has placed in the clutch pedal circuit. The wire color is red/blue it should plug into a switch on the clutch assembly.

Was this a 5speed swap?

The ecu thinks it's always in gear right now.

 

[fredfifty]

That's a problem and why it is doing what it does. Fix the nss circuit and remove the jumper you or someone has placed in the clutch pedal circuit. The wire color is red/blue it should plug into a switch on the clutch assembly.

Was this a 5speed swap?

The ecu thinks it's always in gear right now.

Ill check if theres a jumper. Yea this was an aod to tr3550 swap done before i bought the car.

 

[a91what]

No there is definitely a jumper plug it's in from the factory on a aod car, it is grey. There are two harness connectors down there, one is black and one grey. They are for the cruise control?? and clutch safety switch circuit.

 

[fredfifty]

No there is definitely a jumper plug it's in from the factory on a aod car, it is grey. There are two harness connectors down there, one is black and one grey. They are for the cruise control?? and clutch safety switch circuit.

Where exactly would the jumper be located? Thnx

 

[a91what]

..... they plug into the clutch assembly.

Look under the dash up near the clutch assembly on the left side of the assembly you will see two switches can't miss them. The harness will plug into these switches. When you push the clutch the switches close and tell the ecu the clutch is in.