having more problems with intake please help.

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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Dallas, TX
Hey guys. As you all know since the intake install it seemed like my car has had a VERY bad vacuum leak. It would idle fine, but around town when I hit the clutch idle would surge, or would stay at 1500. backfire above 3k and didnt want to rev very high. Didnt have power brakes alot of the time or only had half poewr brakes. The timing was adjusted to 14*. Didnt fix any problems. I moved around some vacuum lines today. Lets start at the vauum connector behind the passenger side strut tower. The fpr and the black line that goes to the intake were connected into one hose whitch went to the intake. Car ran like mentioned before. So today, I realised that the other black hose that goes to the smog pump isnt connected. I dont have smog pump but I wasent sure what it was for, so i put the fpr vacuum on the intake by itself, then i took the two small black hsoes and connected them to one hose whitch went to the extra spot in the vacuum tree. Car ran alright this morning, only backfired once but for the first time I could rev up to 5500 no problem, and I had full power brakes. leaving for school in the afternoon the car was rough again no power brakes, popping, and backfired once, and it had that feeling again of no spark or no fuel like the car just completley lost all power and feel on its face. But after that took it on the main rode lit up the tires 1st through 3rd and shifted at 5500 no problem. But after that the car chugged and bogged the rest of the way home.

The car ALWAYS boggs, in ANY gear, at ANY rpm, at ANY speed, it always bogs HORRIBLY as if you were going 20mph in 5th gear and trying to accelerate. The only time it dosent bog is when you are accelerating at about half throttle and up. Once you floor it the car revs up beautifull to 5700 no problem and keeps pulling harder then it ever did without the intake, past 3k it does pop alittle but not too loud and no backfiring. But still chuggs home.

And also something that scared me was leaving my work iin the parking lot i turned the wheel all the way, and the wheel locked! with the car on, the wheel locked! luckly i was bearly moving and i hit the brakes but if i was going 50mph and the wheel locked i wouldnt be here right now.

Oh and when I started it up at work, the idle was WAYYYY rough, like it would idle at 1k and then every 5 seconds it would surge up to 2000 then slowly go back down. And also when i unplug the iac the car boggs down like its about to stall and sometimes does, is that normal?

Im not sure what to do, My ACT sensor was completley broken off so I replaced that today, i adjusted the timing, fixed all the vacuum lines. I sprayed carb cleaner on all the vacuum lines, in between the intakes, the only thing that happened was where the pcv hose connects to the intake when i sprayed it, the car revved up alot, so i tightened the clamp as much as i could and it was fine. Any help? Im out of ideas. I wish I could afford a $30 code scanner but since friday ive spent 420 bucks on this intake swap and I am clean out of money, so throwing parts at the car is not an option. I have a voltmeter but I dont know how to pull the codes with it.

PLEASE HELP!

Do you guys think its possible that instead of plugging the smog plastic line I plug the intake plastic line? Would it cause that much problems? I tried everything that I thought would fix it and it runs better then it did when it started but it still runs bad. Im not sure what pinging sounds like but people said if you have it youll know it, I dont notice anything sounding different so I guess its not pinging? And I think its running rich, when i get out of the car the fumes are HORRIBLE and smells really bad. Ill try checking the fuel pressure tomorrow. Could this be that the injectors werent pushed in all the way? Im 95% sure they were put in right but idk, again bringing up maybe the dizzy is a tooth off? And one thing I am highly suspecting is that we didnt torque down the intake to sequence or use a torque wrench, would it cause these problems? i heard it would run lean but im running rich.
 
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What you are experiencing now seems a lot like the issues that I had when I got my first GT. A lot of bogging and surging. Mine even shut off while I was on the free way. Hissin helped me a lot with this back then and a LOT of it had to do with the following.

TPS - It may need to be adjusted or replaced.

IAC - It may need to be adjusted or just cleaned. Carb cleaner works wonders for it. Remove it from the throttle body and douse it in carb cleaner. Get as much of it out as you can. Let it dry and put it back on.

Check and recheck all of your vacuum hoses again. The surging idle checklist will help a great on this. Make sure that you go over that very helpful thread. A great investment that you don't want to overlook in the future is a code reader. It can be a little pricey, but it knocks the crap out of guess work.

Good Luck
 
Alright thanks man, i cleaned the CRAP out of my IAC when i took it off, like i sprayed it with carb cleaner like crazy and let it sit face down and drain out. The thing is pretty much brand new lol. And i put a new gasket on it not a big deal though. The tps I think is a problem. I tried resetting it today, I dont know if its my voltmeter not working or the tps bbut I couldnt pick up any charge on the tps. When I went to adjust it, nothing even showed up on my volt meter. When I pushed the points down on the wires I could hear it resseting because the rpms would fly up and then come back down, I made the mistake of unscrewing the tps out of the t/b instead of unplugging it, could a tps not put on correctly cause all these problems?
 
RacEoHolic330 said:
don't set the tps with the car running, only do it with the ignition on.

ok, I asked someone and they said it didnt matter if the car was on or off. Ill do that tomorow, I know the tps could cause the idling and surging problems but could it cause the bogging at cruising? Maybe thats something like dirty MAF sensor or spark plugs or something small? I can always look over the vacuum lines again but theres only so many i touched so if their all fine i dont know. I cleaned the MAF liike 6 or 7 months ago, would be kinda weird for it to all of a sudden mess up after an intake swap. Does the position of the maf make a difference? Cause I dont have the brcket that hold the maf it just kinda hanging there with the intake hoses.
 
poneypower89 said:
Why do you need a $30 dollar code reader? You can pull the codes with a damn paper clip!

thats what I do anyways.

How do i do that? Do i use a paper clip as the jumper wire? I have a volt meter, i dont know what to set it to, what to connect it to or anything.
 
how long does it take for the cel to start flashing, will i have enough time to connect it and run to the inside and start counting? lol, and how do i know when its done and is start on another code?

I just want to ask real quick, could a bad tps cause these problems? I dont think i installed the tps correctly at all, and I know its not adjusted. Like I said before i know it would cause idling problems and the surging but could it also cause the bogging at cruising? thanks
 
the cel will NOT flash untill u turn the ket into the on position (but dont start the car.. and dont have it in gear..)

You will hear every sensor in the car click/tick/clack.. the fuel pump will prime.. and then the car will start flashing out the codes.

take a pen and paper and write them down. they will repeat twice.

2-3 second pause seperates digits... 4-5 second pause seperates codes.
 
I don't see what your vacuum reading is? How much vacuum did you get? with a stock cam you should get nearly 20 pounds at idle.

I'd start there.

In my case, I had an internal vacuum leak between the egr spacer and intake. never knew it, never heard it, yet vacuum was around 13 pounds.
 
v8only said:
I don't see what your vacuum reading is? How much vacuum did you get? with a stock cam you should get nearly 20 pounds at idle.

I'd start there.

In my case, I had an internal vacuum leak between the egr spacer and intake. never knew it, never heard it, yet vacuum was around 13 pounds.

How do you check vacuum? I dont know how to do this. I have a bcam what should vacuum be at with that cam? Thanks.
 
get a vacuum gauge, they're fairly cheap. just connect it to a vacuum port off the upper intake. you can use the one going to your fuel reg if you want.

I don't have experience for checking vacuum on a car with a cam, you should research that. there should be info out there for the vacuum you should get with that cam.
 
yea realised one of the bolts going into the upper itnake snapped, botl couldnt go down all the way. I have to get it redrilled and tapped, no ride to the machine shop and no ride to work :bang: my life sucks.
 
slow95gt said:
Did you pull codes? If not im making a vid of how to do it.

Nah, I know how to do it, but im pretty much doing the intake swap again, my lower is off, took it to a machine shop, there was half a bolt threaded inside one of the taps for the upper intake bolts. Upper intake wasent boltded down all the way im guessing that was my vacuum leak. Ill have it tomorrow, hopfully get it running tomorrow and hopfully thats all that was wrong.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to say, my problem was probably a gasket somewhere, Im thinking it was because the upper intake wasent bolted down to the bolts touch the intake, obviously thats probably it. Got the lower back from the machine shop today, bolted it all up in an hour or so and she runs great! alittle surge when you hit the clutch but the tps is bearly bolted down so i have to adjust it and it should be running top notch! thanks guys.