The most pressing problem I have is the function of the radiator cooling fan - it doesn't work. The fan is new and runs when 12 V DC is applied. I just had the CCRM rebuilt and the temperature sensors are new. So the conclusion at this point is that there is a broken wire somewhere.
I have already verified that I have continuity to the CCRM wire that goes to the fan. The ground wire has a fairly low impedance to the frame. I need some direction on how to find the broken wire. I am determined to conquer this problem. Right now the connectors to the two engine sensors are in question. I would like to replace them and make sure that connection is not compromised but I don't know where to get them.
If you are new and would like to learn the "modern" way to work on cars, then take a look at getting yourself an ODB2 scanner. Even better. Get one with bi-directional capabilities. With bi-directional control you can "command" the PCM to turn on the fan and actually see what happens in the engine bay. Further you can easily find out what the PCM "thinks" is the engine coolant temperature (ECT). There is also a PID that say which speed fan the PCM is attempting to command (off, low, high). Image how knowing this information would simplify the trouble shooting.
Here is some information on a very affordable Windows based ODB2 scanner with bi-directional support. Once you learn how to use an ODB2 scanner you will never go back.
While working on your car have you ever wanted: to find an ODB2 operational PID value (say fuel pressure or MAF)? How about graph a PID value over time? Or compare multiple PID's over time? Access a bi-directional PCM control such as test a...
Research and test more. Change fewer parts. The scanner will pay for itself with the first good part not changed. This goes double as relatively expensive parts such as a fan and CCRM have already been changed with "no fix".
If the "old school" way is still for you, this post did not say:
For the GT model, IF the cooling fan works on both high and low speed fan. The V6 uses a single speed cooling fan.
IF the low speed cooling fan runs when the ECT sensor is disconnected.
Does the low speed fan run when the AC is turned on?
Have you tested and CONFIRMED that the fan's black ground wire is able to carry REAL a current? The fan is a high current device. "fairly low" may not be good enough. See the information on voltage drop testing.
Does the dash/cluster coolant temp gauge work? Is it "reasonable"?
Note. The 1996-1998 model year uses TWO coolant temp sensors. One goes to the PCM. The other goes to the dash cluster. The two sensors are NOT compatible to each other.
Here's some information on how to perform a voltage drop test to confirm the current carrying ability of a electrical path.
To anyone else reading any of my posts I usually include the line: Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system! Cut corners here at your own risk I'm a big believer in starting with the basics. As such I...