well y'all I put a e303 cam in my car 88 maf and I'm not good at setting the time it seems like it runs fine but I'm not sure how it is supposed to sound or feel. I Hav a cheap time light from harber freight and it seems like the mark on the fly wheel is not steady and even then I'm not really sure what degree to set the advance or how to.so I'm thinking about bringing it to a shop
How To Set The Timing
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Welcome. Curious, why an E cam and what is the rest of the setup on your motor- heads, intake, Throttle body, MAF, etc.
- bring the car up to operating temp
- turn the car off
- loosen the bolt that hold down the distributor hold down just enough so you can move the distributor- 1/2 inch
- remove the spout connector ( square plug) that is in the wiring harness next to the distributor. That locks out your timing advance, Put that IN YOUR POCKET. Do NOT lay it down somewhere as they get lost.
- On the harmonic balancer, you will see timing marks. Looking DOWN on it from the TOP on the front left of the motor, you will see there is a timing pointer on the front of the timing cover. and on the balancer you will notice a 0 and to the left and right are marks. Each mark is 2 degrees.. The marks to the LEFT are AFTER top dead center and to the RIGHT of the 0 are Before top dead center.
- Using a white touch up pen or grease pen, make a mark on the upper straight edge of the TIMING POINTER.
- The next part is easier with two people but you can do it yourself. It just takes a few times of going back in the car a few times. Bump the car over by tapping the key on and off. You want to be able to see the marks on the balancer from the TOP. You want to be able to see the 0 from the TOP. If you go past it, just tap the key until it comes around again. Stock timing is 10 degrees BEFORE top dead center, or FIVE marks to the right. of the 0. Again use the paint or grease pen and mark that line on the balancer. Then count TWO degrees to the RIGHT of that mark- that is FOURTEEN degrees before top dead center. Make another mark there- 1/2 way of the length or with another color if you need to . Sometimes the car will run better at 14 vs. 10, but you want to start with 10.
- Depending on what timing light you have, this is probably how to hook it up. Positive and negative leads to the postivie and negative on the battery. The inductive lead gets put on the #1 spark plug wire with the arrow on the lead facing the cap. #1 plug is the first one on the passenger side.
- Once you have all of this done,. make sure all wires are out of the way of pulleys, belts, fans, etc. Start the car. Point the light at the timing mark you highlighted an pull the trigger on the light. It is like a strobe light and you will see the timing ,mark on the pointer and the two marks on the balancer. What you want is tfor the mark on the pointer and the 10 degrees before top dead center to match up. If they dont, carefully grab the distributor where the TFI is ( not by the cap or wires to avoid a shock) and gently move the distributor left or right until the marks line up. Once they do. turn the car off,
- TIghten down the distributor hold down bolt,
- Replace the spout connector
- Disconnect the timing light
- Test drive- see how it drives and you can move it to 14 degrees but you will need to run premium fuel.
you made that so simple! thanks I will let you know how I do. and I Hav a 88 gt I swapped it to mas air flow I got bbk long tube headders in to a H pipe with flow 40s turn downs. 4:10 gears , 28lb injectors, bigger throttle body , bbk cold air, trickflow upper intake, e303 with the new springs and lifters to match ( I got the e303 because I'm a idiot) and I got stock et7 heads and I got at Eaton supercharger I'm working on putting on now
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
those heads are a chokepoint and the stock valvesprings will cause float and binding. You should be replacing them with a decent set of heads- Twisted Wedge, AFR. You are leaving 50+ hp on the table.
Eaton Supercharger? 28lb injectors?
Ah welcome to my world.... doing an m90 install myself and just completed the first test drive if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
If you would like to see my progress look up (m90 5.0) in the thread section.
Did you get a matching maf calibrated to the injectors?
If you would like to see my progress look up (m90 5.0) in the thread section.
Did you get a matching maf calibrated to the injectors?
She did good so far (things to remember a positive displacement charger is all about volume not pressure)
I see about 2# of boost when I let her wind up. Now I am going to try an spin her harder to get pressure in all rpm ranges.
I am intercooled which nets a pressure loss as well.
If you can try and get the tb before the charger, I wish I would have.
All in all I'm happy.
I see about 2# of boost when I let her wind up. Now I am going to try an spin her harder to get pressure in all rpm ranges.
I am intercooled which nets a pressure loss as well.
If you can try and get the tb before the charger, I wish I would have.
All in all I'm happy.
we'll I Hav the Eaton off of a tbird so I was just gunna run it in to the intercooler and then in to the tb why do you say you wish you had the tb in front , oh and btw how did you do the boost bypass valve
Read my thread, I used the inlet and cut it apart and reweld it for my setup the hat is a piece I made with plate steel 3" exhaust pipe and sheetmetal. The bypass is cast into the inlet I cut and reworked the I piped it over to the hat. It is a lot of work.
You MUST hard pipe all the way to the plenum too run the tb before the blower, if you leave the tb in the stock location it will sound like a f16 under the hood.
You MUST hard pipe all the way to the plenum too run the tb before the blower, if you leave the tb in the stock location it will sound like a f16 under the hood.
I'm pretty good at metal fab because I'm a aircraft mechanic but you make me kinda scard. like I don't even know what a mangasquirt is lol
It is an aftermarket ecu that you can tune with a laptop at home. It is not needed for the build you can use what I am now, an fmu which raises fuel pressure with boost pressure.
oh gotcha but why is it that I Hav seen some other m90 on 5.0 and there pushing like 6 to 8 lb of boost
I was hopping that all I had to do was make a mount run some pipein ,get a longer belt , and a tune and call it a day pushing 6psi on 500$
I have an intercooler, a big one. You get a pressure drop across it. This does not mean a power loss it is all about volume. And the volume of air does not drop. Also I have a well built engine. Ported gt40 heads, ported intake, large tb and longtubes with x pipe and no cats.... more air in and out = less pressure. A stock 5.0 flows much less air.
I am about to spin mine harder with a smaller pulley on the charger, and a larger crank pulley off of a 5.0 f150. The Mustang crank is 6" the f150 crank pulley is 6.5"....
You want to spin a m90 to 14k rpm. I'm only spinning mine to 11.5k
The ratio is crank diameter/charger pulley= X*engine rpm= charger rpm.
You want to spin a m90 to 14k rpm. I'm only spinning mine to 11.5k
The ratio is crank diameter/charger pulley= X*engine rpm= charger rpm.
Just one from the intake manifold. You can get a box of assorted vacuum t fittings and tubing from the auto parts store
