Ideal Shifting Stock Motor Stock AOD & Spray

vladtepes

New Member
Feb 12, 2010
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i have a pretty stock 91 mustang.. i am leaning towards a small shot (100 shot maybe) for some weekend fun at the strip... but the stock shifter is kind of eh.. i imagine i could start in 1st and up shift to D but i am not sure that is ideal.. automatic shifter kits? (like ratchet shifters?) that would work well to allow me to have 1st shift 2nd shift D, as opposed to 1st shift D.. i was looking at units like the B&M.. any information or advice is really appreciated..

thanks..
 
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thats funny, my 86 if i leave off the line in 1st. it will hold 1st then i shift it up once and it holds 2nd till redline then shifts to 3rd. mabye i got some kind of shift kit? new to me.
 
Doing that does put extra heat in the trans. If you plan on making a habit of this, you really need to mod the tranny a bit. Heat kills AOD's and plenty of guys have killed their trans by doing the 1-D-1 shuffler too much.

If you plan on a 100 shot, should really at least add a trans cooler up front...a shift kit would be nice as well

The B&M shifter does change the way the shift gates go slightly, but without a valve body change, you really shouldn't hold a gear too long as it builds heat.
 
I've added a Lenntech valve body to the AOD in my '88 LX. It allows a 1-2-3 manual shift pattern so you don't need to to the 1-D-1 shuffle to hold second. Also has electronic OD lock-out. Added a tranny cooler, too. Like those upgrades. Next project is a B&M "Hammer" ratchet shifter. It's sitting on my work bench now and I plan to install it during the next rainy weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. I chose the B&M Hammer because they have a model that's made specifically for Fox body Mustangs so it should install fairly easily, fit right, look right and, I'm told they work very well. FYI...I've also changed out the torque converter for a higher stall speed. I wouldn't recommend this for a daily driver like my car. Good for a few tenths at the strip, but a bit annoying during the daily commute.
 
I've added a Lenntech valve body to the AOD in my '88 LX. It allows a 1-2-3 manual shift pattern so you don't need to to the 1-D-1 shuffle to hold second. Also has electronic OD lock-out. Added a tranny cooler, too. Like those upgrades. Next project is a B&M "Hammer" ratchet shifter. It's sitting on my work bench now and I plan to install it during the next rainy weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. I chose the B&M Hammer because they have a model that's made specifically for Fox body Mustangs so it should install fairly easily, fit right, look right and, I'm told they work very well. FYI...I've also changed out the torque converter for a higher stall speed. I wouldn't recommend this for a daily driver like my car. Good for a few tenths at the strip, but a bit annoying during the daily commute.

awesome thanks for all the advice.. it sounds like you are working towards the exact setup i want.. im not afraid of some work OR money to get where i want to be.. was the valve body easy to install? how do you shift 1-2-3 with the stock shifter?

thanks again to all you guys for all the info.. i would NOT drive the car like this often.. ONLY at the track.. and thanks for the info on the trans cooler i may want to add that as well..
 
This is the end of the rainy weekend I was waiting for to install a B&M Hammer shifter in my '88 LX Notch. I'm an average DIYer and, start to finish, it took me about 8 hours. Install requires you to pull out ALL of the center console, including the radio and surrounding support structure for the center of the dash, and the trim below and around the steering column.

Biggest hassel of the whole job was getting the base of the console back in after installing the Hammer. The original equipment shifter can be pulled back into "1" to get it out of the way of the console for removal. But, because the Hammer is a ratchet shifter, it always works around a central, more forward position and can't be pulled back far enough for the lower front crossbar of the console to clear the stick. The Hammer is quite a bit beefier than the OE shifter, too. As a result, the inner structure of the console needs to be cut and modified to reinstall. Not unmanageable, and nothing shows, but B&M ought to disclose that.

The second challenge is getting the shifter cable properly adjusted under the car. My first attempt, (following the directions), with the shifter and tranny shift lever both in neutral before reconnecting the cable, wouldn't let the tranny shift lever move forward far enough to enable the neutral safety switch...no start. Second set-up got the neutral safety switch engaged and the engine started, but wouldn't allow the tranny shift lever to move back far enough to engage first gear. You get the picture...a couple more trips beneath the car to readjust...road test...readjust, road test, etc. Gradually dialed it in on the fifth attempt. I have a lift to work on. It would have been a real PITA without one.

The Hammer is now in and properly adjusted. It definitely looks much, much better than the OE shifter and is working as expected. It is fun to use, but there's still one issue to handle. The base plate and shifter trim panel that come with the kit are quality and fit well, but the metal spring clips that come in the kit to attach them to the console don't hold them firmly in place. They both move about when shifting, so I'm going to anchor them better with some trim screws.

The instructions that come with the kit describe how to shift 1-2-3 with the Hammer and the OE valve body; start in 1, push the lever forward and pull it back, (rather than letting it spring to the center position), to hold second. Push it forward again and let go to shift to third. This is very similar to how you 1-2-3 shift an AOD with the OE shifter.

However, I put a Lenntech valve body in my AOD last summer. It allows you to shift 1-2-3 in straight order without the AOD shuffle and has an electronic overdrive lock-out for holding third gear, (very handy at the drag strip). Installation requires you to remove the transmission. Once the tranny is out, the valve body install is very easy. Turn the tranny over, pull off the pan, remove the original VB and replace it with the Lenntech, (which is actually a modified OE unit so it goes in very easily). Biggest worry for me was drilling and tapping the tranny case for the electonic OD lock-out wiring. Took my time doing it and it came out fine.

The Lenntech valvebody works very well...and is even better with the Hammer. Pull the handle back five times to get to first and hit the go pedal. When you're ready to shift into second jab the lever forward and let it spring back on its own. Bang...you're in second. Slam it forward again and bang...third gear. With the Lenntech valvebody, if the OD lock-out is engaged it'll just keep winding out in third. Too fast? Hit the switch to disengage the OD lock-out, OD kicks in and the RPMs drop. Of course you can always just put it in drive and let the AOD operate in full auto for relaxed cruising.

The other nice thing about the Lenntech valvebody is full engine braking downshifts in third and second, which are much easier and more fun to use with the Hammer. Coming into a corner too fast in third? Pull the Hammer back quickly, release it and you're instantly in second with engine braking as well as the foot brake...and already in the right gear to power away from the curve. The only thing missing is a clutch pedal, and now I hardly miss it. However, if I play too rough with this set-up and burn out the AOD, I'll be doing a manual 5 speed conversion some day. In the meantime, this is a pretty good set-up that definitely adds a good dose of driving fun.