Installing new headlights
- Thread starter MahFiVeOh
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Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
silicone the seams on them...I found most of the bolts/nuts were easier to get from underneath when the car was on the hoist. The mounting housings on your stock ones have a little clip on each post that pop away from the post then that will let the housings come off. just replace them on the new lights push the clips in and install on the car.
bloopbloob
Member
i'll just say that mine were a PITA to do. worse than my waterpump install! i couldnt get my hand into some tight places to get to the nuts that hold them on. needless to say, i spent hours doing mine, with a lot of swearing and cuts on my hands. and several drinks.
SuperStang83
Founding Member
I just took some off then put them bak on and it took about ten minutes. Yes some of the nuts are easier to get at from underneath the car for sure.
Took about 7 days to get the lenses, 20 minutes per side to install all 3 lenses and forever to try to align them.
I drove around for several days with the driver’s side headlight scanning the upper branches of trees for squirrels, owls and UFO’s. The headlight lens had extra slack between the retaining clip and the screw head which allowed the lens to shift around. Fixed that with some small washers between the screw heads and the bottom of the mounting hole. I would recommend that you find 2 extra adjustment screws per side - they are the ones with the hex ends on the end of the screw where it sticks through the mounting plate. That may help the alignment problems, as the stock setup only allows adjustment with 2 screws, and is hard to adjust in and down at the same time.
If you bought Genuine Ford headlights, the adjustment will be easy. If you bought reproduction headlights, they will be very difficult to align properly. I bought reproduction units the first time, and my headlights could not be aligned: they would shine up in the trees and across the road. I even had all 3 screws set up as adjustment screws.
The set of headlights I now have say "Ford" on them and they seem to line up properly.
The adjustment screws are upper inside and lower outside screws. If the headlights were re-assembled properly, they will have a 5/32" hex on the screw. You can use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. The upper screws can be reached with the hood up, while the lower screws may require you to lay on the ground in front of the car and reach them from the bottom.
To align the headlights, find a level spot with a wall 25-30 feet away. Disconnect the driver light and align up the passenger light so that the light pattern is slightly below of the actual centerline of the headlight. This is to illuminate the right hand side of the road. Reconnect the driver light and disconnect the passenger light. The driver light should be aimed so that the light pattern on the wall is inward about 6" and slightly below the centerline of the headlight. This keeps you from blinding the oncoming cars. Disconnecting and reconnecting the headlights helps to show which headlight is shining in what direction. Reproduction headlights may shine in several directions at the same time, making it very difficult to align them if both lights are on at the same time
One Stangnetter recommends putting a fender cover over the headlight that isn't being aligned. I like his idea, it's simpler than disconnecting the lamps.
I drove around for several days with the driver’s side headlight scanning the upper branches of trees for squirrels, owls and UFO’s. The headlight lens had extra slack between the retaining clip and the screw head which allowed the lens to shift around. Fixed that with some small washers between the screw heads and the bottom of the mounting hole. I would recommend that you find 2 extra adjustment screws per side - they are the ones with the hex ends on the end of the screw where it sticks through the mounting plate. That may help the alignment problems, as the stock setup only allows adjustment with 2 screws, and is hard to adjust in and down at the same time.
If you bought Genuine Ford headlights, the adjustment will be easy. If you bought reproduction headlights, they will be very difficult to align properly. I bought reproduction units the first time, and my headlights could not be aligned: they would shine up in the trees and across the road. I even had all 3 screws set up as adjustment screws.
The set of headlights I now have say "Ford" on them and they seem to line up properly.
The adjustment screws are upper inside and lower outside screws. If the headlights were re-assembled properly, they will have a 5/32" hex on the screw. You can use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. The upper screws can be reached with the hood up, while the lower screws may require you to lay on the ground in front of the car and reach them from the bottom.
To align the headlights, find a level spot with a wall 25-30 feet away. Disconnect the driver light and align up the passenger light so that the light pattern is slightly below of the actual centerline of the headlight. This is to illuminate the right hand side of the road. Reconnect the driver light and disconnect the passenger light. The driver light should be aimed so that the light pattern on the wall is inward about 6" and slightly below the centerline of the headlight. This keeps you from blinding the oncoming cars. Disconnecting and reconnecting the headlights helps to show which headlight is shining in what direction. Reproduction headlights may shine in several directions at the same time, making it very difficult to align them if both lights are on at the same time
One Stangnetter recommends putting a fender cover over the headlight that isn't being aligned. I like his idea, it's simpler than disconnecting the lamps.
MrXCESSIVESPEED
Member
They are pretty easy to do if you have a gear wrench or a ratcheting wrench. The headlight will come out easier if you take the turn signal and parking lamp lens out first. If you remove the headlight bulb, handle it by its base and not the glass, otherwise the oil from your skin will create a hotspot on the bulb causing it to blow out sooner than normal.
Nice choice in lenses BTW
Nice choice in lenses BTW
Flavadave4
Active Member
Easy install, I would recomend applying some clear silicone to the seams as mentiond bove...unless you like the condensation look?
88-378
Member
Be patient! It is a total PITA. I have fat short fingers and i could't get into a few spots.
I was changing my radiator to an aluminum so I waited to do the headlights while the old radiator was out. Made it a lot easier.
I was changing my radiator to an aluminum so I waited to do the headlights while the old radiator was out. Made it a lot easier.
Most of the time I put new lights in after I paint a car, and the bumper is already off...much easier.
Nice lights!!
Nice lights!!
Yes they are aftermarket headlights.I was gonna go with the stock replacements but decided to go with these after seeing a certain sig.
bloopbloob
Member
so am i just retarded or something??? or do you guys have tricks or what??? it probably took me a good 2-3 hours to do mine. i tried from the top, the bottom, even bought new pivoting ratchets, and a few weird ones too (that fit in the palm of your hand)! the only way i could get the socket on - left me doing single click ratchet turns, and it kept slipping off all the time! took for ever and i almost lost a finger and my mind!!!!!
I'm hoping with the new "clear" lenses that my Sylvania Silverstar bulbs will shine alot brighter than with the crappy yellowish stock lenses i have on my car now.
well i can say with a hid retrofit it's great. i'm sure there's a lotta glare with drop in bulbs.
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with new lenses and HId is very bright...if you can do the projector lenses then great..it will giv eyou better cut off ont he lights but they work great wihtout as well..it just makes some other drivers unhappy for a fraction of a second. i have HID in all of my cars (four) including my company POS...
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