Learned about Fram orange can of death

[Maryland Stang]

...
NUMBER TWO: Crappy anti-drainback valve technology. Virtually everyone who has disected and compared oil filters says Fram is in a (bad) league of its own here. Today, when I removed the Fram filter I was expecting the usual amount of oil to come out and, to my surprise, very very little actually did. The filter was therefore virtually empty. This is not good at all, and can definitely lead to premature engine wear.

Fram's crappy anti drainback has nothing to do with the filter not having any oil in it. In fact, it's impossible for the filter to have completely drained. The filters on 5.0s are mounted in a way such that much more than half of the oil couldn't drain out even if there were no drainback valve at all.

Also remember that nothing is stopping the oil from flowing out of the open section. It will also flow back through the filter. The only things that should stay in the filter is the dirt and debris.

I don't use Frams. I don't recommend them. But if you're going to beat something up be truthful about it.

 

[Stever89]

I read this thread yesterday, went straight to O'reilly's and bought an FL1 filter and oil, got that gnarly Fram filter off of there. Someone must have been pissed when they put that Fram on there, took all the muscle I had to get that damn thing off. Oil pressure is up to 55 at idle now, was around 45.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My experience was with my '93 Mark 8. The early DOHC 4.6L was known bad rattle on startup. It's due to oil leakdown while the engine is off causing the secondary chain tensioners to rattle.

I used a Fram on the car when i first bought it and the rattle was LOUD. I read about the probs with fram and switched to a Motorcraft 820S filter...and it quited it down dramatically