Engine Looking For A Mean N/a Recipe

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by chrisconsin, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. Looking at getting back in the 2v game.

    I recently sold my 700hp 4v ’97 cobra and once again I want back in the game!

    This will be my third mustang but this time, I want to build the motor myself, first two stangs I purchased had internal motor mods already done.

    Now that I have my own garage I want to purchase a stock mustang and take pride in building it myself. I have no prior knowledge of engine building; I have been reading a few engine building/blueprinting books and am ready for the challenge. I understand this will be a long process.
    I haven’t purchased a mustang yet, I’m planning to pickup a clean, high mileage 96-98 GT (best bang for the buck.)

    I am thinking of building a bad ass N/A 4.6 but have no idea where to start.
    I would rather not stroke the block I have heard nightmares about the strength on stroked 4.6 blocks.

    Here is what I am thinking— keep in mind this idea is not set in concrete and I am flexible

    I don’t really have a hp goal in mind, but would love to shoot for 400rwhp. As for budget I would like to keep the build under $5000

    Does anyone have a badass N/A build recipe with proven results?

    I know I will need:

    Heads – trick flow/ported?
    Intake – Logan (is an aftermarket intake overkill?) This will probably kill my build budget L
    Cams -? I want a radical cam (love the rough idle!) But I am concerned about cam and piston clearance
    Pistons /Rods ?
    As for rotating assemble I know lighter is better, but I don’t think spending the extra money will net much gain INPUT?

    I know I will have to raise the compression if going the N/A route I just don’t know the best piston head combo for that and keep a pump friendly tune.

    I am looking for specific model and brand numbers please.

    The car will mostly be a weekend warrior (60% street / 40% track).

    I know some will argue the car won’t be street-able and, I actually look forward to the fun of having angry cams. My first stang was camed and took a lot of skill to go through the McDonalds drive thru without killing it (Good times!) I JUST WANT TO AVOID LOOSING LOW END.

    Thank you very much in advance for everyone’s responses, I know I am asking a lot. I’m new to this and I am not really sure where to start!

    P.S. I did a search but could not find anything recent n/a with the new trick flow heads.
  2. Sounds like you have a good plan. Me personnally, and it's just my opinion, I would do a PI swap on the 96-98 GT instead of spending all the extra money on the trick flow heads. You could put any valve train set up in those PI heads, and most junk yards now have some 00+ GTs sitting there with the engines in them. Even new both PI heads and manifold would cost less than one trick flow. Again it's just my opinion. :) I'm not saying the trick flow are bad, I just don't see many on 4.6l mustangs.

    Oh and anything is streetable, just how practicle it may be lol.
  3. if you plan on doing a full build and staying n/a, i would leave the stock crank, get forged pistons that are clearanced for the valves, forged rods or coyote rods, trick flow 195 trackheat 38cc heads, talk to modularheadshop for the cams, new timing set, mmr's hurricane oil pump w/ forged pump gears, trickflow intake, lt's, o/r h, etc. make sure the pistons are dished to get you around 10.5 - 11.1 cr, upgrade the fuel pump and injectors, and i know you didnt mention it, but personally, i would throw a small shot of nitrous on that setup. Forged pistons / rods w/ stock crank should be good to around 600 rwhp. with the above combo you should be right around 400. dont forget, you are probably going to want to upgrade the tranny, clutch, and rear end. I would run 4.30's if i were to build something like that. i know summit sells a trickflow top end kit that comes with all the necessary stuff (heads, intake, cams, and gaskets) for right around 3k. However, I wouldnt use the trickflow cams, I would talk to Nick McKinney at Modularheadshop about your set up and goals. He will be able to spec you a cam that will work with your setup. Also, dont forget the cost of machine work on the block. Check out modularmustangracing.com for rotating assembly parts / oil pump. Oh, and I would go ahead and use a 7 qt oil pan as well. That set up will probably want to spin around 7k, wouldnt want to see it starve for oil.
    chrisconsin and BurningRubber like this.
  4. You'll get a lot of different opinions on this, some including don't waste the $.

    Simple, yet effective: stock block, cobra crank, forged rods (stock Coyote as mentioned, or MMR makes a very affordable forged I-beam rated for 700ish), good set of pistons with reliefs (allowing for a larger cam selection) Trickflow heads, Edelbrock intake (works very well) and pick a set of cams to match.

    400rwhp will take a lot of RPM and probably a little head work on a set of Trickflow heads. The Cobra crank will take the RPM. The cast GT crank is supposedly good to 6500-7k RPM and 5-600rwhp depending on who you ask. The Cobra crank has been spun to 8k and will hold nearly whatever power you toss at it.
    chrisconsin likes this.
  5. Does it have to be a 2V? Were I in your position, I would be looking for a 3V and sticking with hyper pistons for an N/A setup (they seal better). 11:1 compression would be the starting point and the lowest I would go on that motor. With proper tuning, you can go even higher and stay in the 91 octane fuel area. Meth injection or an E85 combo (if it's readily available in your area) would be sick too.

    It would be a rev monster.
  6. thanks everyone for the input i have a lot to chew on now!!

    i am looking at a 2v simply because there a dime a dozen and a perfect choice for a first time build

    I will keep everyone updated on what I decide with


  7. Usaf branhma thanks for your input!

    Unless I am missing something I am only seeing the 44cc 195 trackheat heads, not the 38cc I could step-down to their 185 heads with 38cc---could you advise
    I guess I’m wondering can I off set the 44cc lower compression heads with a higher compression piston or does it not work that way?

    And while on the topic of compression
    With no e85 around in my neck of the woods, I will be running just 92 octane (I would rather not mess with methanol) would you call me crazy to wanting to up the compressing just a tad more??? I think 15 is too high but I am really in the dark on this one and if i'm gonna go all out I want all the power! :cool:
    And lastly you said I should get the trickflow intake what is your opinion of the victor jr intake for a 7000rpm power band?

    And yes I agree I would get a custom cam designed for the trickflow heads that along with a good tune would make wonders of a difference

    EDIT: I think flat top pistons max out at around 12.9 compression so 15 may be out of the question
  8. i would keep the compression around 10.5 to 11.0, i thought i seen a set of 195 track heat 38 cc tf heads on their website... but, the 44cc 195's would work fine with higher compression pistons. just make sure that who ever you get the pistons from, notch them specifically for the trick flow heads. the angle of the valves are different.
  9. Im liking this thread, I know going N/A on a 2v is EXPENSIVE but its so cool to have a quick n/a motor!
  10. i know the turbo guys like the vic jr, should work well for an rpm monster n/a build.
  11. I thought that if you used TrickFlows, you didn't have to notch the pistons?
  12. I think a lot of it depends on the cam. I know with the old 5.0 motors u didnt have to.
  13. the trickflows allow for a lil more clearance compared to stock, but as you increase your intake advance you will run into piston to valve issues. besides, if you want to build an n/a rev monster, your going to want some nasty duration & intake advance with the cams, probably enough to thoroughly stuff the intake valves in to the pistons... also, getting intake / exhaust valve reliefs cut in to the pistons usually doesnt cost much in comparison to the rest of the build.
    Modular2v likes this.