lowering rear of car w/o blocks (long)

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by latamud, May 10, 2005.

  1. Just a tip: cutting leafs a great, free way to tune your spring rate, but you really, really need to grind a taper into the leafs so they don't gouge each other. Also, look for rolls of poly plastic sold at street rod chassis places that's designed to go in between leafs to help them slide when assembled. It makes a huge difference and is cheap.
  2. Good point. Some grinding to smooth them out would be a good idea.
    The little slippy things could be made out of a lot of different material and are also a good idea.
    Some leaf springs don't have them but most do.
  3. I was getting ready to do it the original way but this way looks easier. It appears that you cut the same amout off of each leaf. How much did you cut to get the
    3/4" drop? Is this alright to do for a street car? Thanks

  4. When you are talking about grinding a taper, would beveling the top side of the leaf you cut do enough to releave the opportunity for them to gouge each other?
  5. If by the top side, you mean the top of the lower leaf, then yes, that's what I meant. The sharp edge left by cutting will dig into the next leaf over time, so even a quick pass across it with a grinder is better than nothing.
  6. Each piece is 8.5" long and yes, it can be done to a street car. Both of the cars I've done it too are street cars.

  7. Yes that is what I meant, Thanks for the info.

  8. Thanks I was planning to do it the other way that you told me about, But after seeing you do it this way I might just try it a little sooner than I had planned.
  9. It does soften up the spring rate so be carful how much you cut off. My $100 - '68 Ranchero was a option car with heavy duty suspension, it has 5 leafs from the factory. Way too much IMO and sat way too high and rode way too stiff.
  10. Pictures of procedure

    I have some pictures of the procedure to reverse the springs. I didn't buy another set of spring as there was an extra full length spring installed by a previous owner. I lowered the car from 16.5" to 13.5" by reversing the middle and smallest spring.

    Picasa Web Albums - Jorge - Lowering BackEnd
  11. Thanks for the pics. This thread is almost 4 years old and still getting attention. This is one of my favorite mods.


  12. What do you do about the clamps that are on the spring, just reuse them? How easy are they to get off and then replace?

    I have just put new 41/2 leaf reverse eye springs on my 66 fastback and I have a massive gap like you had - don't want to use the blocks if possible.

    Do I just reverse two springs on the springs I have or use more leaves - it's a bit unclear.
  13. Before you try this mod with reverse eye springs try loosening the front mount bolt and the shackles just a little so nothing falls apart, keep the nuts threaded on, drive the car maybe 1 kilometer and it will possibly settle. My guess is you had the car jacked up and tightened everything up then lowered the car. The bushings can bind and keep the car in the air some.

    Otherwise, we add a leaf or two to lower the cars, but it is a fine tuning process. If at first you don't succeed, try try again. The clamps already on the leafs I remove. You can cut them off or work them loose with a pair of vicegrips. I use the bolt on clamps to finish it.
  14. Thanks for the reply. I can't drive the car as it has no engine in it!

    I had the car on axle stands, replaced the spring each side and left the bolts front and back quite loose, then put the wheels back on and let the car settle for a bit - however, there is no weight in the car at all - no glass, no interior, no full gas tank, no seats etc, engine, gearbox etc.

    I should maybe get all that in and then access the height. I am not against using 1" oowering blocks if I have to - the car is s weekend cruiser and so wheel hop ain't gonna be a problem - it's not like it's going to ripped at the track.

    Do you think all the weight of everything once back in will have an effect?
  15. Well, in your case if you only want 1" I would say a block should be fine. For this mod, we're looking around 3" where a lowering block can mean trouble. I am not sure about the weight difference. I will say old out to see if the added weight does make a difference but with new springs I'm doubtful. Tire size makes a difference as well, a taller tire is going to fill the gap more than a shorter one, but at the same time raises the car. Finish the car off and then with the suspension at ride height crawl under there and tighten everything up. From there decide, mod the leafs or short lowering blocks.
  16. Subscribed. Me like technical discussion
  17. Attached Files:

  18. I doubt your eye would even know the difference. A 1" block is actually a fairly small drop and if it's too much, you can have a machine shop mill off 1/2" and re-install them. But to try for 3/16" I wouldn't spend the time and effort for the tiny amount of change.
  19. And $60 to boot, you could buy a lot of scrap steel and drill a bunch of holes in it and make those if you're not going to use them as tie downs.
  20. You could just cut the middle out of a couple of leafs and add them to the top of the leaf pack. That would give you adjustment in small amounts.

    I tore the leafs apart again in our 66 coup to change the ride height by 1/2".