Manual Fuel Pump Vs Electric

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 73 g-stang, Dec 2, 2013.

  1. Hey guys, I have a 73 with 351 Cleveland ,manual fuel pump, I don't drive car very often maybe once or twice every month. The car takes very long to get gas to carb and sometimes drains battery, would an electronic fuel pump fix this problem? Also, I'm not sure if adding the elect fuel pump create any other issues I have to worry about? Any info would greatly be appreciated!!!
  2. I believe an electric fuel pump would solve your problem, it will also supply a more consistent fuel pressure. If you do decide to go that route here's what I would suggest

    Rotary Vane Fuel Pump

    Pressure Regulator

    A rotary vane fuel pump is a much better pump than the cheap thumper pumps, you must also run a regulator to keep the pressure at the optimum range for your carburetor.

    Hope this helps, Ranger
  3. Thanks Ranger, do you have any idea what pressure I should set the fuel supply and what electrical amps and wiring connections to make???
  4. an electric fuel pump is going to draw something like 10 amp at most, and that is for a monster sized pump. as for the fuel pressure, set it at about 4psi to start. you can adjust it up or down depending on what you need in the future.

    one more thing i would recommend you install, and that is a return line. that way you can help maintain lower fuel temperatures at the carb by constantly recirculating the fuel. plus it takes some load off the regulator.
  5. Hey, thanks for your info, I'm not sure what or how to install the return line could you be more specific or recommend a drawing or link???
  6. Cool idea Andrew, but did they really neck down the return to 3/8" once it gets into the tank?


    I used some 1/2" steel tubing and did something very similar.
  7. as indicated, the regulator, a good one anyway, will have two outlet ports, you use one for the carb, the other you use for the return line. you then make a return line from steel, aluminum, or copper tubing and run it back to the tank, right next to the fuel feed line if you like. then you need to either use an 86 mustang sending unit that has provision for a feed line and a return line, or make your own provision for the return line in your current sending unit.
  8. Great thanks for the info and link.... I'll let you know how I make out..
  9. Dennis,

    I am 99% sure the 3/8 line you see there is not functional except to hold the fuel sending unit (sensor and float). I think the return line dumps right into the tank (there is a hole in the back of the copper colored block). I haven't had it out in some time, but this is how I remember it. I think what he does is purchase stock fuel sending units, cuts the bottom and top off the tube and then attaches it to his assembly (probably cheaper than designing all that). I also got mine with the AN fittings. I used it as designed (feed line and return line) with the 383 I had for the short stint. When I upgraded to the 434 I welded a sump onto the bottom. Now I use this as the return line only and for the fuel sending unit to signal the fuel gauge.

    from the site..."1/2" return tube allows use of a return/bypass regulator without modifying the fuel tank or switching to a fuel cell"
  10. That is what I was hoping. Just wasn't apparent in the photo. Thanks.
  11. Hey Tim, thanks for all of the info. How did the electric fuel pump with regulator work with your carborator???? Did it make a significant difference, and any improvement in performance or just start up???? One more thing I see you have an AOD trans, I'm actually thinking of doing the same thing, how much difference is the power output and the actual drive???? Would you recommend the AOD trans or was it more hype than it was worth???
  12. You dont need a return line...many pumps suchbas the holley blue are designed to run without a return line...the regulators with duel outlets R dsigned for dual carbs, such as the one that comes with the holley blue pump. They do sell regulators dssigned for a return if you want that....this is my setup...3/8 line, filter going into a holley blue

    Attached Files:

  13. The performance did not change, but cranking was reduced... A LOT. After a two week sit, start-up is easy. I turn the key on and let the electric pump run for a few seconds, pull the manual choke, pump the accelerator twice and it fires right up. Before I would have to crank and crank until the mechanical pump filled the carb bowl enough.
    As far as the AOD, I just don't like the way it shifts for anything other than full throttle blasts. In part throttle acceleration situations it shifts from first gear to third gear almost immediately. If I were to do it over again, I'd prolly go with a 5-speed Tremec TKO or an AOD-E. They are more expensive options, but likely worth it in the long run.
    I like being able to get on the highway at 75mph and the engine revs only 2200rpm.