Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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Could you sell the covers on eBay,instead of shipping them back at a loss?

Probably, but I don't want to deal with it any more really. A little pissed about the whole thing in general. Boxing them up as we speak. Time to move on.

At least on the bright side of things...my current seats don't suck :)

Edit: not gonna lie, a little sad to let this plan go, but I'd never be happy with magenta seats. I'm disappointed that the coloration of the seats is so far off from the product photo and i have to be sensitive about what angle and lighting I view them at to not look pic. I loved the quality of the kit, but would go with s different color in the future. Im actually going to go ahead and request some color samples FIRST if I decide to try this again.
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What process did you go with for intake plate? Paint the entire plate and sand the top? What did you use for sanding...by hand with a block or sander?

Sandblast, followed by sanding the top surface with a rotary type disk sander. Started at 80 grit and ended at 220 grit.

I then hit it with a buffer and really shined it up, but then decided I preferred the machine finish.

Soap/water clean, followed by primer and then the black high temp paint. Then I broke out the rotary sander and used the smallest grit I could use to get the paint off, then switches to 220 grit

That's how it sits now. Debating buffing it to a shine, or finding a 600 grit wheel. I kinda prefer the frosty machined finish and if I stop at 220 (or 600) I can easily touch up later
 
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Seat kit went back this AM. $90 insured. Not as bad as I thought. Oh well.

I'm also out what I paid for the donor rear seat and tools, although I might do something with that down the road....

Anyway...blah
 
So are jumping on the MS bandwagon then?

I am. I've spent the last week reading up and watching youtube videos and am getting a much better idea on how it all works and kinda excited to give it a shot. I figure I get it running on my stock setup just to iron out the kinks, and then I can plan my H/C/I with DIS setup down the road

I've got a preliminary shopping cart put together, just waiting on my refund for the seats.

Got my hands on a donor ECU for the 60 pin for $9 shipped
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What platform did you decide to go with? I assume one of the DIY ones due to getting the connector, but are you going MS2 or MS3?

MS3. In my head I have all these crazy ideas on what I want to do, so might as well spend the extra $$ and get the latest and greatest.

Going to do the DIY MS3 kit, with expansion card, and the Ford BOB and extension. Plan is (after Steve's helpful advice) to mount the MS3 behind the radio, and run the extension over to the stock location.

Other than handling my combo, I'd like to ditch the distributor and go DIS. Big question is if i'll stick with explorer coil packs, or go with LSx coils. Beyond that, i'll probably do some I/O's such as control my e fan, and actually attempt to keep some of the smog stuff like charcoal canister, and air pump so I can run cats.
 
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Why the heck I couldnt find it searching for Mustang OEM motorcraft ACT sensor is beyond me, but thank you. I just picked up one of the same ones you did. Appreciate you brother.

I have never trusted aftermarket sensors. Its been bugging me ever since I installed it. Since my upper has to come off again anyway...

If you can find some motorcraft ECT sensors or even the part number I'd appreciate the heads up. Next on my list to track down.

The only one I can find now requires cutting and splicing a new connector on.
 
So, set out to do my final cleaning up of the explorer intake before paint, and also to tap a few holes.

Aw fudge
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Gotta see if I have any nitric acid at work, or maybe try another method. Hmm. I just need to get it out and I'll drill/tap for next size up. This is the vac line for charcoal canister...which might not now be needed with the MS3 setup.

Got a few sanding disks and grinding wheels to take off the casting mold part lines. Really last thing to do (and remove busted tap) before prime and paint. Stopped for the day. AFC championship in an hour :)

Anyway, since MS doesn't control EGR, I'm going to delete it. I'll block off at lower to upper intake gasket in case my state ever brings back emmissions testing so I don't need to pull lower intake to unblock.

Since I no longer need my working EGR spacer, anyone used these before? I hate buying eBay mods...but it's just a piece of machined Aluminum.

Just need to decide if 1" or 1/2" thick will help clearance the best with the taller VCs
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Worked on the broken tap a little today. Only moved a bit, but I had decent luck breaking it up.

Unfortunately my punch is a bit in the big side so I need to get some in smaller diameter.

I also bead blasted the outside of my 65mm TB. Time for paint
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Drilled and tapped some holes on the opposite side of intake.

The brass port is for MAP and the other is standard source and EGR/FP
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I goofed on this though, or the factory pipe just sits way too close to the runners. I should have drilled at more of and angle to get more clearance. I'll make it work though. I think I can slightly bend these to get it to clear. If not I can fab up a manifold. Nobody will ever see it here anyway.
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Just need to remove the broken tap, retap that hole and then I'm ready for paint. I want to replace the freeze plugs as well...post painting. Waaaaay too much work for an explorer intake lol.

Started to prime the TB
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And my new oem temp sender came in. Mine is fine...just oxidized. I want fresh sensors.
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You are making me want to pull mine out of storage and work on it, but dont want to get derailed from the instrument cluster. One project at a time or I will never get anything done.

Well, I have free time on my hands since I'm not working on seats now. This is literally the only Mustang thing I have going on, so I can take my time. I haven't ordered the MS stuff yet either since I'm waiting for my refund from CJponyparts still.

I understand about not getting too many projects going at once though.

EDIT: Just got my refund literally as I hit post. Time to put my shopping cart together for MS.
 
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So I modeled up a trigger wheel. Still need to refine the inside details as I need to figure out how to mount it on a stock style harmonic balancer and to allow for it to be orientated correctly

The 36-1 wheel actually has 35 teeth correct? The 36th tooth is deleted? The keyway in the crank is at TDC or 180 out when it's pointed straight up correct?

Need to get s junk balancer to design up the mounting. Anyone have a totally junk, worthless stock balancer they can send me?

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I have access to a laser cutter, so I'd rather design up my own trigger wheel vs trying to adapt a universal.
 
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So I modeled up a trigger wheel. Still need to refine the inside details as I need to figure out how to mount it on a stock style harmonic balancer and to allow for it to be orientated correctly

The 36-1 wheel actually has 35 teeth correct? The 36th tooth is deleted? The keyway in the crank is at TDC or 180 out when it's pointed straight up correct?

Need to get s junk balancer to design up the mounting. Anyone have a totally junk, worthless stock balancer they can send me?

IMG_5764.JPG


I have access to a laser cutter, so I'd rather design up my own trigger wheel vs trying to adapt a universal.
Yes, 35 teeth, 10 degrees apart. You can always use an explorer balancer and timing cover but It looks like you’re already on a path. I mounted mine on the back of my balancer
 
Yes, 35 teeth, 10 degrees apart. You can always use an explorer balancer and timing cover but It looks like you’re already on a path. I mounted mine on the back of my balancer


I did see pics of your setup. I guess it gave me a few ideas. How did you mount it? Where did you align the missing tooth to?

I guess I'm pretty much done with this wheel really. Just a few minor tweaks when I can measure a ford balancer, and 10 mins to write the cutting program.

What are they typically made of? I have a few materials to choose from. I might have 1/8" titanium sheet.
 
@Mustang5L5 I used a 2 1/4" hole saw, then lightly filed out the opening a little more to fit flush against the back of the balancer. Actually..... I shimmed it up 1/8" so it didn't sit right against the balancer.

As far as alignment, it depends. Steve told me the pickup needs to be 5 teeth (50 degrees) ahead of the gap when the motor is on TDC. I don't know what the offset is for A9x cars.

I did it backwards though, so I need to figure out a way to adjust the wheel without completely ruining the balancer or wheel.
 
As far as alignment, it depends. Steve told me the pickup needs to be 5 teeth (50 degrees) ahead of the gap when the motor is on TDC. I don't know what the offset is for A9x cars.

I believe it's the same regardless. I'm not going to set it up until I go MS3 though, just wanted to plan for the wheel to be in place.

I guess I just need to figure out balancer orientation with regard to TDC and then I can orient the wheel properly on the balancer. I believe 5 teeth puts it approximately where it would be on the explorer.

Aparently LRS used to sell a F150 timing cover as a Mustang cover years ago that had the holes for mounting a crank sensor. As far as I know they swapped to the Mustang cover now. I think the issue is the orientation of the water passage holes, but I don't think it matters given that the holes on the back of a Mustang water pump are in fact circles. those sloped ramps shouldn't matter..no?
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SO really the question is do I swap to this style timing cover and mount a factory style non adjustable sensor and really have to pay attention to where I mount the 36-1 wheel, or come up with a custom adjustable mount that I can bolt to the standard timing cover bolts and then adjust the sensor.
 
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I believe it's the same regardless. I'm not going to set it up until I go MS3 though, just wanted to plan for the wheel to be in place.

I guess I just need to figure out balancer orientation with regard to TDC and then I can orient the wheel properly on the balancer. I believe 5 teeth puts it approximately where it would be on the explorer.

Aparently LRS used to sell a F150 timing cover as a Mustang cover years ago that had the holes for mounting a crank sensor. As far as I know they swapped to the Mustang cover now. I think the issue is the orientation of the water passage holes, but I don't think it matters given that the holes on the back of a Mustang water pump are in fact circles. those sloped ramps shouldn't matter..no?

s-l1000.jpg


SO really the question is do I swap to this style timing cover and mount a factory style non adjustable sensor and really have to pay attention to where I mount the 36-1 wheel, or come up with a custom adjustable mount that I can bolt to the standard timing cover bolts and then adjust the sensor.
I'll be doing the latter. Makes the most sense... For my situation at least.
 
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