Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

[bird_dog0347]

BTW, I am in need of a cover for my tubular intake.

I bought one off eBay, not an original but like $80ish shipped and other than the fact it does not match the paint I currently have it's great. Once I decide how I want it to look overall it'll match.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Man that's cool having the engine on the stand like that!

 

[General karthief]

Not sure I like the intake with a cover.
your intake cover looks good

 

[Mstng93SSP]

I like the cover. I have the ebay repro one on the black GT

and the 5 billion dollar original one on the 7Up Convertible.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, got some garage time.

Step one, remove old pilot bearing. I tried the bread method.

One slice later

 

[Mustang5L5]

Decided to sleeve the crank. Used a felpro sleeve and this install tool

With the right light, you can see the wear groove. You can’t feel it, but it’s obvious here

Sleeve was easy to install with the gel pro tool. Light taps with rubber dead blow and it’s in

 

[Mustang5L5]

Next up rear main seal. Lubed up, and my $2 install tool. Finally, new pilot bearing installed.

 

[General karthief]

White or whole wheat?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Threw on the flywheel and bellhousinh and indexed it. I got about 0.010” of total runout.

Now to break it down again, and reassemble it permanently

 

[Noobz347]

Is there some goop that goes between the seal face and sleeve? What stops the oil from exiting there?

 

[Mustang5L5]

White or whole wheat?

Wheat bread recommended

 

[Mustang5L5]

Is there some goop that goes between the seal face and sleeve? What stops the oil from exiting there?

A sealer is “optional”. It’s not a loose fit. It needs to be driven on.

 

[Noobz347]

A sealer is “optional”. It’s not a loose fit. It needs to be driven on.

So, press fit and spans the width of the groove. Never saw one before. Just worked out that I've never reused a crank.

My old one leaked though... fo sho. Even after having changed the rear main seal.

Then the blower came, new motor... You know the story.

 

[Mustang5L5]

So...um...oops?






Was on the home stretch of bolting up my pressure plate. Torquing my bolts...and one got tight...and then got loose. Yup, stripped. I made sure to chase the threads out, but too much disk dust in there I guess.

Anyway...need a new flywheel now.

Pulled it all apart and called it a night. I thought I was going to have this All buttoned up tonight.

I’ll order a new Ford flywheel in the AM


Btw...not the first time I’ve done this. Just call my the flywheel stripper

Stripped clutch bolt in flywheel: can it be repaired??

I was in the middle of my final torque sequence when my last clutch bolt stripped out the threads in the flywheel. They are completely gone. Question is, does anyone know if this can be repaired?? Or am i better off just spending the $100 for a new Ford flywheel from summitt?

www.stangnet.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

Btw, my new ARP flywheel bolts are just a tad longer than the OEM bolts. This an issue? I assume not

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

Have you decided what/if you're putting anything on the threads to sell them up since the holes go thru?

 

[Mustang5L5]

The ARP bolts state moly lube under the head and blue loctite on the threads.

I used red. I like my legs

Also the reason I ordered a new flywheel rather than try to fix the stripped hole

 

[Mustang5L5]

So which Ford flywheel should I get?


Cast iron stocker M-6375-b302 $152

Billet steel M-6375-C302B. $250

 

[Noobz347]

I bought the Billet Steel and have zero complaints. For what I do, I do not require a lightened option and wanted something more durable than stock so that clutch selection would never be a 'thing'.

 

[a91what]

On a driver a light weight flywheel can cause idle quirks..