Need Help....Badly

[Hyland33]

So my mustang has a lot of work done to it and i've always thought it was kind of sluggish but it didnt bother me much...until my friend gave me a ride in his 86gt with just exhaust and it pulled harder than my mustang...needless to say i havent been happy with my car since haha...

Anyways these are the parts the car has:

302 built by Ford Racing

340 HP 310 ft/lbs

GT – 40 Aluminum Heads

9.0:1 Compression Ratio

Roller Lifters

Roller Rockers

E-303 Cam

24 Pound Injectors

24 Pound Mass Air Conversion with 76 mm Air Tube

Fender Well Cold Air Intake

70 mm Throttle Body and Spacer

Polished Typhoon Intake Manifold

1 5/8 Mac Shorty Headers

Solid Motor Mounts

155 LPH Fuel Pump

MSD Coil

AOD with B&M Hammer Shifter

TCI Torque Converter with 400 RPM More Stall

2 ½ Inch Stainless Steel with 2 ½ Inch Flow Master Mufflers


The previous owner said the car had 373's in it but when my car saw the dyno there was no way it had 373's in it...
I talked to my mechanic and he said i should get some 373's. My friend said my torque converter has way too low of a stall so i should try one with a higher stall...and the car still has the sock H-pipe but i dont think it could be restricting it THAT much...

The car put down 210 horse on the dyno...which seems really low to me...

What are your opinions as far as torque converter stall and other possible issue?

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.