Need Input On A Real Good Clutch
- Thread starter Wonderbread750
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
You're gonna get 100 people with 100 different opinions on this. But with that being said, I really like this one :http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.c...ormance-clutch-kit-10-1-2-fits-79-04-mustang/:
I installed it last fall after a good friend recommended to me. He regularly drag races his street car on the weekends and has had great results holding up to his 10 second '88 hatch.
I don't race mine but it really holds the power great!
I like it!
I installed it last fall after a good friend recommended to me. He regularly drag races his street car on the weekends and has had great results holding up to his 10 second '88 hatch.
I don't race mine but it really holds the power great!
I like it!
Yeah agreed... I currently have a stock 5.0 and just put in a Spec Stage 1 clutch. Many people have been raving about this clutch for the stangs. My brother has a beautifully worked mint 300zx with a stage 3 spec clutch that handles flawlessly so i went ahead with that. I ordered from AmericanMuscle, they delivered next day and had most competitive prices (not that I am promoting them... just helping anyone trying to save a buck).
before I make a recommendation on a clutch, can you describe "buckwild"? I'm thinking your perception and mine may be a little skewed from one another
SPEC, Mcleod, and Ram all make good clutches. I've been using SPEC for the last few years because their customer service is good, and they get stuff out to me fast. Fidanza is relabeled Chinese junk.
Kurt
Kurt
I
im planning on a 347 stroker with twin swirl gt40x heads, still researching hydraulic lifters and valvesprings, and pushrods, im going a stage 5 comp for lobe lift and duration, all my internals are going to be forged, no cast crap, after all said and done either supercharger or a bigass turbo i dont know which yet, teeter totter is in play
If I may make some suggestions. Stroker motors and power adders don't work well together in a stock block, at least not for long. 500rwhp is easy to make anymore and will split the stock block clean in half. If you haven't bought cylinder heads yet then I would look elsewhere. The gt40x heads are better than stick but can't hold a candle to the Trickflow or AFR castings. As far as a trans goes you will be looking for a TKO or the like to replace the T5. That being said, until you're ready to build the killer drive train I wouldn't go crazy with a clutch just yet. A clutch that works with a big power combo will not be the best for the combo you currently have. With that being said, for your big power combo I would look towards a twin disc clutch from McLeod or Ram
Now what do you mean it cant hold a candle? Im new to motor builds and all that but in my long time spent research the more air and fuel pushed through the motor the more power that is created, and its a 64 cc head for more air flow, now the colder the air you can get in there it increases compression since cold air expands, but instead of using a plastic box im working on a design that actually makes air cooled to 32 degrees before it hits the throttle body for massive compression, why would you say no to the gt40x, and are the trickflow and afr cast forged or aluminum? And whats the pros and cons, im all for learning because i hate doing things twice haha, build it right to build it better
Last edited:
modulistic
Active Member
- Nov 26, 2002
- 383
- 30
- 29
he just basically said you can make enough power with a stroker to split the block. or you can make enough power with forced induction to split the block. put the two together, and not only is it not the best combo, but then you might as well just buy a couple 4 cylinders and drop them from 10 feet off a forklift into your engine bay right now. then he said that gt40x are basically suck. NOT buckwild. that guy knows what he is talking about too. just get a vortech v3 and run that.
modulistic
Active Member
- Nov 26, 2002
- 383
- 30
- 29
oh, and i have run at 10 degrees above zero ambient temp on dry roads up here, and the cold air isnt really that much more explosive than normal air.
4 bangers, ill buy a new dart block if i gotta, im aiming for 450 hp and 400 tq
Cylinder heads are more than just size and more about the volume of air that they can flow. The TFS or Afr heads for example flow far more air than the GT40x heads. This will attribute to more horsepower overall. The combination of parts needs to be spot on as well. Brand X cam with brand Y heads have to work together for overall success here. The balance of the correct matching components is key. For big power I would skip the Gt40's as they are far inferior when compared to TFS or Afr. Both of the later are aluminum as well.
As far as the compression goes, the temperature of the air does not affect it one bit. It will affect the overall efficiency of the engine by providing a more dense air charge but that is about it.
For what its worth, a properly built stroker motor with a solid top end will make 450hp all day without a power adder. Add a blower or turbo and 600hp is not out of the question. It does take thousands of dollars worth of supporting components however. The stock engine block only holds about 500 HP so if you are looking to exceed that an aftermarket block from dart or the like will be warranted.
As far as the compression goes, the temperature of the air does not affect it one bit. It will affect the overall efficiency of the engine by providing a more dense air charge but that is about it.
For what its worth, a properly built stroker motor with a solid top end will make 450hp all day without a power adder. Add a blower or turbo and 600hp is not out of the question. It does take thousands of dollars worth of supporting components however. The stock engine block only holds about 500 HP so if you are looking to exceed that an aftermarket block from dart or the like will be warranted.
Ok now how can i determine which cam goes with what head and how i can make the two most effecient with each other as possible, i want to understand how the lobe duration works, when it begins intake and exhaust cycle, and how the valve springs and lifter work in sync with the cam, do you got any good articles or books i could check out?
For your application there are plenty of tried and true combinations that you can follow. If you search you will find almost identical combos to yours and can see the real world results. This is super beneficial since most others have done the leg work for you. The 5.0 engine has been around a long time so there is not point in re inventing the wheel. I found this car craft article to lay out the basics and give you a little insight into the theory http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0403_camshaft_basic/
At a certain point, off the shelf grinds will not be optimum for a particular engine. For me, I have someone spec out custom ground camshafts designed around every last component that I have. In some recent testing with my current motor a camshaft change was worth 150 additional hp
At a certain point, off the shelf grinds will not be optimum for a particular engine. For me, I have someone spec out custom ground camshafts designed around every last component that I have. In some recent testing with my current motor a camshaft change was worth 150 additional hp
Similar threads
