New '93 Fox -On3 Turbo Build Project- PICS

a91what

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You need to verify the wideband is synced properly with the MS. If you run veal on normal or below it does not take much for changes to happen.. set the difficulty to hard so it respects the current ve table more
 
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Franomania

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I did sync up the WB using the offset -- it is usually around 0.1-0.2 off if anything.
Any good way to tune the MAT table? i think this is also hurting me on the hot days/nights cruising around
 

Franomania

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Hey guys, been a while since I've done anything because I've been having way too much fun with this thing the past few months!
I have not hooked up the boost controller but debating to even do it. It's currently making between 7-7.5lbs on just the spring. It's fun enough in its current state that I'm weighing the risk/reward of head gasket issues with a few more lbs. It was always only intended to just make it fun enough street car. Based off forum/youtube research I'm guessing around 330ish HP with a bone stock motor? I've heard around 10lbs it's practically guaranteed to blow head gaskets can anyone confirm?

My idle still needs work but haven't bothered trying to dial it in any better yet. Also, wish I started using EGO control a bit sooner haha. Fuel map is practically bang on, now with the ego to 10% Auth it's essentially perfect. I do get some lean spikes when I tip in the throttle and rich spikes when getting off it but I will need to lean on Steve next summer for that because I have exhausted all accel enrich/other features to try and solve it.

I tried out a cheap electronic cutout for :poo:s off Amazon for 60 bucks and has been worth every penny. My quiet flowmaster 40s normally, and rowdy bull when I want. Also feels like it breaths much better, as confirmed by my AFR opened/closed.

This winter I want to focus on cleaning up some more of the surface and interior flaws and give it some more appeal. I started by finding some chrome 17x9 cobra r rims on kijiji. Feeling very vanilla ice, but for $400 I couldn't pass it up. They have a 235 tire on them which looks and works perfect on the front, but definitely needs a sticky 255 or more on the rear.
 

Franomania

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And here are some pics. Wasn't letting me put them in my previous post for some reason.

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Franomania

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Hey guys. During the past summer on hot days the car would get very hot while stuck in traffic ~215-225ish sometimes. If I turned on AC, it would spike immediately so it was a sweaty summer.
Stock rad and fan setup right now.
My question is which would have more benefit...upgraded rad or contour/markviii fans? Yes I assume both is the correct answer but I want to minimize the parts being changed on this car if possible.

I'm guessing airflow first considering when I'm cruising the temps lower down to 195-200ish. Still a bit higher than I want since I still can't run the AC without the Temps spiking.
 

Noobz347

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If you still have the full OEM shroud, you might check the fan clutch.

You might free up a few HP over the clutch fan by going electric but you will have a hard time using it to move more air than the OEM fan... Even at idle.
 
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Franomania

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I thought the OEM fan and shroud was good enough -- even at idle the fan wont stop for anything so i assumed it was working fine. Not sure how else to check aside from trying to stab it with a roll of newspaper and stop it (which it will not).

Not worried about the HP gain at all -- just want to be able to run AC in the summer. Wondering if the stock setup is good enough at this point.
 

Mustang5L5

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With the engine off (obviously), grab the fan and spin it by hand. Does it freewheel easily with no resistance? Or does it have resistance and stop pretty much immediately when you let go of it?

If it spins easily with very little resistance, replace the fan clutch
 

Franomania

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I'd say the latter...It stops pretty quickly, wont make a full rotation after i spin it. also visually looked in good shape, no leaks or anything.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Ok, clutch is probably ok.

What's the condition of the radiator? If you pull the cap off and peer inside, do the flow tubes look clear and unobstructed, or do they have calcium deposits forming? Are the fins bent or straight?

If you are weighing a new radiator or a new E-fan, i would lean toward radiator first. If the stock OEM clutch fan isn't keeping the car cool, an E-fan is not going to do much better.
 
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Franomania

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The rad is full to the cap and at the correct level on the overflow -- cant tell unless i drain some coolant out. Physically it is in great shape no fins bent out of shape or damaged. The car appears to have been well maintained over its life so it would likely be normal condition for a car with 180k kilometers on the clock.

Guess i will be looking for a new rad in this case with more water wetter. I know there is no air dam underneath the car which i read should help, but i cant see it helping too much in stop and go traffic. I just think there is not enough airflow between the intercooler, condenser to the rad especially since its a GT car it only has the small bumper opening at the bottom.
 

a91what

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I have a GT.. with an AC condenser, huge Transmission Cooler and a huge Oil cooler all in front of my radiator.. its a cheap LMR aluminum radiator.
393cid engine with Twin Turbos
Car never gets above 195.

I took the time to box the radiator in, I made sure the rubber flaps around the radiator were installed and in good shape
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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I know there is no air dam underneath the car which i read should help, but i cant see it helping too much in stop and go traffic.

Air dam underneath would help more at highway speed. It doesn't affect anything if you are overheating at a stop.

The main causes of that are not enough airflow through the radiator, or poor heat transfer through the radiator, which tends to be due to calcium deposits inside the internal fins
 

Franomania

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I have a GT.. with an AC condenser, huge Transmission Cooler and a huge Oil cooler all in front of my radiator.. its a cheap LMR aluminum radiator.
393cid engine with Twin Turbos
Car never gets above 195.

I took the time to box the radiator in, I made sure the rubber flaps around the radiator were installed and in good shape
Good to hear... with stock fan in that case? Rad is the culprit forsure sounds like then.
 

Franomania

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Ok thanks for the input gents. Seems like everyone turbo is running 2 core and better fans to keep cool.
I think I'll start sourcing 3g alt and either mk8 or contour fans first. If I still have the problem into the summer months it's easy enough to drop in a new rad.
 

90sickfox

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Contour fans with two 30amp relays ( one each fan ), 20 amp fuses on each power wire to the relays, controlled by mspnp2 ground output. Keeps my car between 202 and 212, middle of dash gauge, on 90+ degree days. Been like this for a few years now. No issues at all. I also run on3 with trickflow heads and stroked to 331. I used trunk weatherstrip from the JY to insulate the fan shroud to the radiator. My fans came actually came off of a mercury cougar in the JY. They are factory and not aftermarket. They are the same exact fans as ford Contour fans.

A stock fan shroud didn't fit on my car. The cold side piping would've caused me to have to cut a hole across the bottom of it.
 
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