New Clutch On The Way

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Mattstang04, Mar 20, 2014.

  1. Either the stock clutch is about to explode or my paranoia is getting the better of me.:dammit: I know the stocker wasn't going to last forever. The cars got 113xxx miles on it and the engine is putting out way more than it was ever intended to (as Ford intended it to). I don't beat the car too hard but it sees its fair share action. Nobody spends the money on a supercharger to putt around at 25 mph hour on nice Sundays. I really wanted to do the job on my schedule and not out of necessity but....

    I keep finding single ball bearings on the floor of the garage and underneath my car, which I suspect are from the throw out bearing. After some spirited driving last week, something changed in the feel of the clutch. The next time I drove the car, it was having trouble going into and out of gears. A new notch appeared going in and out of each next gear, intermittently while shifting. 2nd has always had its little tricks but 3rd, 4th and 5th have never been anything but smooth until now. I figure the old TOB is spitting bearings and can't muster the push to fully disengage the clutch. I'm fearful it will leave me stranded, so new stuff is on the way.

    Got a Spec 3+ clutch, Spec Billet Steel flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, FRPP pressure plate bolts and pin kit, new Ford clutch fork pivot ball and MM clutch cable on the way. Already got my FRPP TOB, double hook quadrant, and pilot bearing, and a firewall adjuster that I'm not sure of the brand (its the jamb nut style). As of right now, I'm planning on reusing my original clutch fork.

    If there is anything I have forgot or any words of caution/details (or encouragement), let me know.
    Bet you all thought I was going to ask you what kind of clutch to get. :SN:
  2. I run a ram hdx with a stock machined flywheel. Your set up is probably going to be a bit overkill since that will hold more than the tranny is rated and if you ever need a rebuild you wont be able to reuse any of it from my understanding. But as long as it feels good that's all that matters. My clutch is also overkill for my car, I didn't really need a clutch good for 550tq.

    On another note, are you doing the install yourself? If so, have fun getting that old pilot bearing out lol. Mine had to be busted out in pieces
  3. I know its overkill. A buddy of mine put the same setup in his boosted 98 Cobra. It has a good pedal feel and sustains his 500 rwhp pretty good. He's still running his stock T45. I'm hoping that it will last a good long time by never being run at its limits.

    What do you mean about not being able to reuse any of it for a rebuild?

    I'm doing it myself. Thinking about renting a slide hammer with a pilot bearing removal tool for getting the old pilot bearing out. That's how I did my friends fox body.
  4. That's just assuming you go 26 spline input shaft if you do a rebuild, our clutches are only 10 spline. I had a slide hammer for my pilot bearing didn't budge it lol. Mine came out in about 6 pieces. Hopefull yours comes out easier than mine. The input shaft of the tranny was even hard to get out of the pilot bearing
  5. Please do yourself a favor and DO NOT install that SPEC clutch. Return it and get a Ram, Centerforce or, Ford Racing. If you do put the Spec in, especially with a blower, be prepared to be changing it out rather quickly, if not, before the break in period is over. Ask me how (and everyone else I know) knows. Get a new clutch fork too. I think you can get them at Brothers Performance for like $25. Lastly, when re installing the starter you do not need to reinstall the infamous pain in the ass third bolt. You will be just fine with the other 2. I have been like that for going on 4 years now.
  6. @superstang. I see and you're correct about the splines. If that ever becomes the case, I'll look into replacing the friction plate. Keep your fingers crossed my pilot bearing doesn't fight as hard as yours did.

    @flstang65. In my searches, I came across many of your posts about Spec. I talked to a shop here in town that does nothing but Spec 3+. The guy won't use any other Spec clutch except the 3+. A friend of mine has one in his 98 Cobra and has done pretty well with it. Hopefully you are wrong about it but I'll let you know if something goes awry. You can give me a big "I told you so" if it fails. I'm kinda lucky with the third starter bolt because of my tubular K member. I can get right at the starter bolts without much issue. I'll look into the clutch fork.

    Thanks to both for the input.
    flstang65 likes this.
  7. A trick for getting the pilot bearing out is to: pack the hole full of grease, then get an old input shaft put it up against the hole in the pilot bearing and smack it with a hammer. The grease will get behind the bearing and push it out. Give it a try.
  8. I like that pilot bearing tool from Summit. If it grips as well as should, that would be much more convenient than the large slide hammer and fitting.
  9. That's the ONLY way I do them at the shop now. Just make sure the one you get fits in the bearing. I made the mistake of buying one that was too big. Didn't bother me too much since it worked well on trucks ect.
  10. That last one looks like the one they rent out at Autozone. My plan was that and a slide hammer. I may look into the prior one you posted though. Seems like a good thing to have around. I know a lot of people with hobby cars and many have clutches. Might be a good investment.