New Here Looking For Some Great Advice!

I’d personally look for a non roller block and just use retro fit link bar lifters. They’re more expensive, but link bars are The way to go.

The non roller blocks don’t have any issues with cracks around the cam bearings, which is known to happen on roller blocks.

I agree, this is the way I went with my stroker build using a 1969 block.
Potential stronger casting and link bar lifters make it easy to run a roller cam.
 
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Okay guys so I have the block already. Is it better to go ahead and get the block cleaned and bored before I buy the stroker kit im getting? Or do I need to wait until I have the lower assembly then get the block done?
 
Talk to a machinist. Some things you can do already, but some will be dependent on your rotating assembly. Things such as piston to wall clearance and deck height can/will be determined by your rotating assembly, as well as the possibility of notching the bottom of your cylinder walls for rod clearance.

Joe