my67falcon said:
Something I did notice was that right after it died, it wouldn't start. It would turn over, but act like it was not getting fuel, or was flooded out. It just tried and tried but wouldn't start. Fuel was flowing though. After a few minutes it would fire right up.
Yep, exactly what mine would do. I would have to pull over when it did this and wait a few minutes for the fuel bowl to fill up enough to start. Even then, it would act terrible until I let it sit and completely cool. Then it would run fine for a while. I could get it to happen almost every time by winding out first and second gear when the car had warmed up due to draining of the bowl. In fact, it got to the point that it would happen every morning when I got on the interstate after a 15 minute ride.
I was talking fuel vapor lock. I had the same setup - the stock mechanical on the timing cover. My glass filter also looked to have fuel. I think it was because of how I had it angled.
For a temporary troubleshoot, you could throw in one of the generic electric pumps where the fuel lines come in at the driver's side frame at the steering column/knuckle. Splice the rubber line, mount it to the bolt that holds the clutch cable to the frame, then find switched 12V to power it.
As far as no heat, this could be a number of things. Yet, I do not think it is related at all. Even if you had a thermostat stuck open, I cannot see it making the engine act this way. Your no heat could first be that the heater core is stopped up (common). Take the heater hoses off and run pressurised water backwards through the heater core.
Coils are cheap replacements (~$35), but I don't think this is the problem. The coil's resistance (both primary and secondary) should be checked cold and hot. There should not be much deviance. Do you know the numbers?