Next mod should be?????

07gtfolife

New Member
Oct 31, 2006
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I am lost on what to do next, I already have jlt/ bspd tune, 4.10's, o/r x. I want to do something before my next trip to the track. What do you guys recomend? Delete plates? Lca's? Do you see any time difference once those are done? Maybe NOS? How do our cars respond to NOS? Maybe a couple stickers, I heard those are worth a few tenths of a second. :shrug:
 
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I was in the exact same postion as you a couple of months ago, and I went with UDP's! Suprisingly I noticed a nice difference, so I would say go that route.
 
I have considered the ds. What do they tend to go for and who is a good company to run with? I have never really gone that route in any of my modding with my cars, so its fairely new to me.
 
I have considered the ds. What do they tend to go for and who is a good company to run with? I have never really gone that route in any of my modding with my cars, so its fairely new to me.


I got my aluminum driveshaft from PSI Performance, and I LOVE it. It is a very high quality driveshaft. They sell their for $499 complete with new rear bolts & pinion flange. I got in on a sale they had for $399, but $499 is their normal price. Some people don't like the idea of changing out their pinion flange. That's just personal preference; but you can save $100-200 over buying a driveshaft with a rear flange adapter.

JPC, Powerhouse 411, and others all make very high quality driveshafts with the rear flange adapter if you'd rather go that route. It's all just how much do you want to spend.
 
I got my aluminum driveshaft from PSI Performance, and I LOVE it. It is a very high quality driveshaft. They sell their for $499 complete with new rear bolts & pinion flange. I got in on a sale they had for $399, but $499 is their normal price. Some people don't like the idea of changing out their pinion flange. That's just personal preference; but you can save $100-200 over buying a driveshaft with a rear flange adapter.

JPC, Powerhouse 411, and others all make very high quality driveshafts with the rear flange adapter if you'd rather go that route. It's all just how much do you want to spend.


And about how much would I gain hp wise?
 
I just put the WMS CAI/SCT X-CAL 2 tuner(93 octane tune) and 4.10s in my Automatic and OMG!!!!! This car s**ts and gets now!!!!! I never baselined mine on a dyno or the track, but will be at the track this year several times. From what I've seen on this forum my auto should be cable of getting high 13's in stock trim. I hope to see some mid 13's if I can get some traction out of the hole on stock radials...
 
Are the 4.10's worth so little? I figured stepping up on the automatic especially that it would be worth .5 sec....

LB

if you plan on running slicks or DR's, then 4.10's would be worth more than I got. I still run on stock Pirelli's, so I didn't get the full 60' benefit that the gears help provide. They force a 4th gear shift, so that ever so slightly offsets some benefit.

I'm not familiar with how the auto's are geared, so I dunno if 4.10s will cause an extra shift or not?

I'd still do that mod 100 times over again. I'm not disappointed with the 4.10's at all... I just had no clue the driveshaft would help SO much.
 
I just got my GT a month ago, and haven't done any mods yet, but one of the first things on the list will be an aluminum driveshaft. The stock shaft has to be a big-time horsepower parasite.
 
The stock shaft is twice as heavy as the aluminum ones. That is a huge reduction in rotational mass. This allows the car to rev faster with less weight to spin. Weight reduction is the key to increasing performance without adding more power...doing it in the drivetrain is even better as now less rotational stress is being put on the driveline. You don't gain power with this mod, but you sure do free up a bunch that you had lost to the stock shaft to begin with(bone stock you're car will still have 300HP, just now it may have 270 instead of 260 at the rear wheels).
 
The stock shaft is twice as heavy as the aluminum ones. That is a huge reduction in rotational mass. This allows the car to rev faster with less weight to spin. Weight reduction is the key to increasing performance without adding more power...doing it in the drivetrain is even better as now less rotational stress is being put on the driveline. You don't gain power with this mod, but you sure do free up a bunch that you had lost to the stock shaft to begin with(bone stock you're car will still have 300HP, just now it may have 270 instead of 260 at the rear wheels).

EXACTLY what I was trying to say, only you said it way better